Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Lightness, best sums up Elie Saab's Spring 2012 haute couture collection. Over the seasons, Elie Saab's hand has soften, creating delicate and lovely gowns, that have been a favorite among red carpet attendees. This collection was touched with soft, spring colors such as a warm peach, soft baby yellow, crystal blue, peony pink, all bunched with a bold, sea foam green and white, botanical print; creating a bouquet of charming, soft, and elegant dresses. Silhouettes were classic, regal gowns, and short, volumes, most with long sleeves in organza or embellished tulle. Saab's beading have become more refined, and require more skilled hands to create these embroideries that seam to float over the fabric, instead of weighing them down. Lace pieces were dense, yet light as a feather..... Elie Saab has shown his softer side, proving that he and his atelier have evolved for the better.

Photos Courtesy of Elie Saab

Valentino Haute Couture spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 The purpose of Haute Couture is to create the best quality clothing that fits the body to perfection, that are exclusive and unique. There is nothing superficial about making beautiful clothes, although, a simple day dress may cost upwards to 34,000 euros, but clients demand the best fabrics, the best workmanship, the best fit, and the sense that they are wearing a vision of an artist they love.  At Valentino, spring 2012 collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, succeeding in giving their clients exactly what they want, great, feminine, quality clothes. These designers kept the aesthetics and integrity of it original founder, creating couture dresses that real women wear (since last year, sales in couture at Valentino have gone up 80 percent). Marie Antoinette seems to have gotten the best of Pier and Maria, in creating whimsical, graceful gowns suited for Her Royal Highness's garden tea party. Long prairie, blossom printed, organza gowns were lovely, in their simplicity and modesty (most dresses were long sleeves). Silk China silk taffeta coats and ball gowns were embroidered with self, gathered scrolls and spiral inserts. Large usefull pockets were in every dress and skirt, a hint of practicality. Some pieces were so intricate and special, such as a suit covered in soft pastel green sequins and golden embroidery, and a delicate chiffon dress, covered in clear, glass beading. Ball gowns were appliqued with layers of fragile lace, and pieces to look like cozy quilts. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri has mastered bringing a story to the house of Valentino, with out compromising the houses integrity, and most of all keeping their clients happy!

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master The Art Of Style, 2012

House of Worth Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 The pleated paper fan was invented in Japan, around the 6th to 8th century, which became a staple among the royal court of Japan; Fans were given as prized gifts to the Emperor (could be thought of as a great hostess gift). The fan was the source of inspiration for designer Giovanni Bedin, the creative director to the revived House of Worth. The full, sweeping shape, and pleats gave way to exaggerated silhouettes, rich textures, and feminine forms. An eight piece collection of Royal worth haute couture dresses, showing that haute couture is a form of experimentation and great craftsmanship!  Bedin's vision of strong shoulders, nipped in waist, and pleated fans transforms the female body, creating beautiful contours, and showcasing exquisite couture hand work. Beautiful, monochromatic looks of Imperial Red, Onyx Black, Ecru, and the prettiest, lightest pink grace the surfaces of manipulated silks to create dramatic, blooming, fans. This is one of the best collections to come from Giovanni Bedin for the House of Worth, proving this historic house is alive and thriving!

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

On Aura Tout Vu Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The beauty of Light and the power of Fire were the inspirations behind the Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection by On Aura Tout Vu. Yassen Samouilov and Livia Stoianova, are the creative duo behind the brand that has captured haute couture with humor and playfulness, with their quirky and whimsical creations. This collection captures the essence of a modern woman searching for a dream to become a reality. I must mention the prints in this collection are remarkable; Fire works exploded on a fox trimmed, beaded cape, mystic blue smoke printed around a soft gown, and burning flames, roaring on satin gowns and dresses. The silhouettes were long and soft, or short with volume, very feminine with a slight sexual appeal. The final piece was white tulle and organza gown, swathered in smoke, creating dark romantic and mysterious abeyance. The background of the runway was lined in tracks with flames burning, capturing the mood of each look. This is one of the best collections On Aura Tout Vu have done and they have inspired us with their vision of light!  

All Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

New York Fashion Week: Preview Chadwick Bell Fall 2012 Pret-a-Porter

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Tomorrow, February 9, 2012, is the opening day of NY fashion week. American designers will be showing their Fall 2012 collections. Master the Art of Style, has been privileged to write and experience the work (as well as behind the scenes) of some of the best designers in the US, who's work is exceptional and meets the standard of Haute Couture; after all our main objective is to offer only the best to our readers! Last week, I made a special visit to the atelier of Chadwick Bell, who is one of the best American Ready-to-Wear designers, with an international sensibility and exceptional workmanship that is comparable to Haute Couture.  Here at Master the Art of Style, we continuously cover his collections (here is a story we featured on the designer back in 2010). Chad was holding a special preview of his Fall 2012 collection; its so great to see a true talent evolve and perfect his craft. The ambiance of his atelier is so relaxed and sophisticated, which reflects his work. The colors are beautiful, the garments themselves are gorgeous. I will not share exactly what everything looked liked (we will cover his show and share the beauty latter on). All I can say at the moment is that suits are immaculately cut, textures are rich (Jakob Schlaepher textiles), and silhouettes are strong and feminine!

Chadwick Bell at work in his New York Atelier.

Photos courtesy of Chadwick Bell, 2012

Bird of Paradise: Julien Fournié Spring 2012 Haute Couture

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Julien Fournie spring 2012 collection was celebration of color and form! Julien Fournie, who established his couture house in 2009, and is the former creative director of Torrente Haute Couture, has been working on creating collections that are modern and unique. This collection was a break through in technology, an innovated design; a collaboration with Fashion Lab using 3D technology to create silhouettes, and fabric rendering, with 3 dimensions. Although modern in the technology, all this could have not been possible with out the artistic and colorful mind of Julien Fournie. The silhouettes were contemporary, modern cuts, keeping strong feminine forms. Jackets and vest, were long and linear with sharp shoulders and plunging necklines, adorned with whimsical prints and techno embroideries. Fournie is a master of taking unusual materials and making them work for the human body; He understands a woman's body and movement. The use of vinyl, neoprene and silks, along with long paillettes, to create soft as air gowns, immaculately cut jackets, and edgy, sexy day dresses and skirts. Exceptional pieces from the spring collection are, a white evening gown with "fans" of vinyl paillettes (reminiscent of a Brid of Paradise) and a taupe gown with square "techno" white paillettes. Julien Fournie understands his clients, and works hard to give them an alternative vision, with out loosing reality or quality. These are true attributes of a couturier; using his house as an environment of experimentation, to create clothes of great workmanship!

All Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

Christophe Josse Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Last January, Christophe Josse was granted the official title of Grand Couturier by the  Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the governing body of Paris's Haute Couture. A title well deserved for a couturier that has exemplified great design and workmanship in couture. For Spring 2012, Christophe Josse presented a beautiful, feminine collection of modern, wearable, feminine clothes. The show, held in the Salons France-Ameriques, in Paris's 8th arrondissement, was the perfect, yet contrasting, setting for a clothes that are well suited for a modern, contemporary woman, who appreciates refined clothing with exceptional details. Day wear was strong, dresses cut with geometrical seams, but constructed in a way that exude softness and curved silhouettes; finished in the most luxurious, sponged wool and silk crepe with lace inserts. Christophe Josse spoke to his clients with soft volumes and geometric forms, using all fabrics to their full potential. Beading was kept dense and monochromatic, or created by the use of the fabric itself (one evening dress had a a crocodile effect created by diamond shaped organza pieces).  Some pieces were adorned with clear Lucite long bubbles, a suggestion of jewelry with an inspiration in sculpture. Colors went from far ends of the color spectrum, from light blush pinks, to rich, saturated emerald greens and fuchsia. Exceptional pieces included a pencil skirt, covered in a black and white ombre, paillette sequins; a black sequined and looped ribbon, little black dress; and the bridal gown, in fluted organza, adorned in the back with ruffles. Christophe Josse has created a strong following in the past years, from working girls to Saudi Princesses, but he creates clothes that will be desired for more generations to come.

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Riccardo Tisci has set his mark on the House of Givenchy, a house with a strong heritage and legend. For spring 2012, Tisci brought back familiar pieces from the "Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Archives", and has collectively brought his vision that he used in previous collections and most recent (some pieces have motifs from mens collection). Riccardo Tisci sites the movie Metropolis by Fritz Lang, as a source of insperation, but one can see the Art-Deco, 1920's flapper clad woman.  Nevertheless, Tisci managed to take our breath away, with mind-blowing, haute couture workmanship that has been the main focus of every Givenchy Couture collection. Comprised of 10 looks, and assembled in white, black and brown, each piece has the opulance of Château de Versailles, with the ease of a t-shirt. Gorgeous leather ensembles where made of pieced leather into small squares and then painstakingly sewn on to silk or tulle to composse star motifs and crocodile skins. An atelier premiere easly took 350 hours, plus, to make each creation. Some looks where accessorised with ornate, indonesian jewelry and shoes, which looked more like objects d' art; one can really appreciate them as works of art. The stand out look was a sling skirt, with immaculate, sequined scales and caviar beaded fringe, paired with a simple tank. Riccardo Tisci has surely proved he is a grand couturier and will continue to inspire us.

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012