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| The Feathered Dress, Dior Salon. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012 |
By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
Photographs by Wilson McCord
Paris November 26, 2012
On a chilled, grey winter day in Paris, I stepped foot into 30 avenue Montaigne, the famed address of Christian Dior Haute Couture, were Mr. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, and newly appointed, Raf Simons, have used its facilities as an incubator to experiment on clothes, and create icons that represent their times.
As one reads about haute couture, more and more clients are reluctant to attend to the runways shows, and prefer to see the clothes through private appointments. They say one can appreciate the clothes more if you touch, feel, and wear them for yourself; which was my initial reaction as I ascended the stair case to the salon, where mid landing was a recent Dior couture dress on display. For his Fall 2012 debut collection, Mr. Raf Simons wanted to “create clothes women can live their lives in.” The collection consisted of just that, beautiful clothes that modern woman could wear day by day. Mr. Simons was so fascinated with the archives of Christian Dior, that he took iconic looks, such as the Dior “Bar” suit and dresses from the 1950’s collections and reinterpreted them for a 21century woman. The “Bar” Jacket was recut into a modern hour glass, and immaculately tailored in a dense, rich, wool that was created especially for the house in Japan. The jackets had an “S” silhouette that was created with softer lines and a dramatic bell at the hips. Most looks, even the most formal pieces, were paired with perfectly cut cigarette pants, narrow down the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle, to give each look a casual touch.
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Details of a Mother-of-Pearl, hand embellished, cut-off Ball gown, by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord |
The recent acquisition of the Vermont Embroidery House, was used to its full potential, when it came to lavish embellishment, especially with one, beaded, multicolored apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.It was pointed out by the venduse, that Mr. Simons has a love for contemporary art, which easily explains my instant attraction to this piece, that was beaded by the Vermont Atelier, with a hand that gives the effect of the artist’s strokes and textures. Other pieces in the collection where printed in shadow prints inspired by painter Sterling Ruby.
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The beaded apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012. |
There were two exceptional ball gowns, in the front of the salon, both densely adorned, one in feathers to create pale pink and blue stripes, the other in airy, strips of chiffon, that had been painstakingly cut and sewn by hand. Both gowns, weightless to the touch, an indication of a light hand in the capable ateliers of Dior. The gowns had direct Dior influences, without losing the integrity of modern aesthetics. A Black tulle strapless gown was made in silk marquessate net, embroidered with velvet degrade dots, and re-embroidered in black sequins was a marvelous reinterpretation of the 1957 "Esther" Dior dress. The clothes are light, even the ball gowns, which would appeal to a client who travels often. Some pieces, could be considered very easy to travel with, such as the triple layered geometric lace pieces, which were constructed with a tulle foundation, and two different geometric cotton-silk laces that have been layered, giving the dresses, a jacket and a skirt a three dimensional appearance.
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A silk tulle ball gown inspried by Dior's "Esther" gown.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012. |
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Deatils of the "New Esther" gown, by Raf Simons for Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord. |
This experience proved to me the success behind this collection and a new era for the House of Dior. With more and more haute couture clients, most whom are very discreet, there is a greater demand for clothes that withstand seasonal trends, and Mr. Simons definitely knows how to provide. Although the DNA was Dior’s, this collection was defiantly Simons vision at its best!
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Triple layered "3D" net, couture dresses by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord. |
