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| The new boutique and showroom at 34 Galerie Vivienne. Photo by Wilson McCord |
Written by, David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
Photos and Art Direction by, Wilson McCord
A month before the news of being
granted official title of Haute couture, by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute
Couture, I visited Alexis Mabille’s new store and showroom, in Paris. I have
followed the work of Alexis Mabille, since the launch of his namesake house,
back in 2005. He has evolved and retained his own identity since the beginning.
Bows, sharp tailoring, uni-sex appeal, and a very French savior faire have all
been trademarks in his collections. The launch of Impasse 13, was a mixture of
pieces that were couture and pret-a-porter, designed to be worn by men or woman.
Not until 2010, did Alexis Mabille start presenting his haute couture pieces on
its own, giving it the well-deserved attention and showcasing the craft of his
atelier. Since the beginning, the house had no intent on having an haute
couture line, but the demands of the clients prove there was a strong desire
for made-to-measure clothing with the Alexis Mabille touch.
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| A Fall 2012 haute couture sequin dress. Background: downstairs fitting room. Photos by Wilson McCord |
At 34 Galerie
Vivienne, stands the proud, intimate, and private Salon, with a small boutique
on the ground floor curated with black and white pret-a-porter pieces. The 2nd
floor, is the private, by appointment only, salon which houses haute couture
collections. We are welcomed into the ground level boutique, which was
purposely arranged to carry only black and white garments. It offers men and
women the key staples to a perfect Alexis Mabille wardrobe. I browse the selection of beautiful
accessories, all in Alexis Mabille’s signature, the bow. Bow clutches, bow
ties, earrings, necklaces, and pouches in every fabric and metal mixed into a
selection of staples. These accessories easily add character to a soft Alexis
Mabille smocking jacket or his signature, little-black-dress. We then meet with
the communications director and Directrice of the house, Myrthe Mabille,
sister-in-law of Alexis Mabille. She is a tall, thin, beautiful woman with a
causal, Parisian flair (Mrythe has
modeled in some of Alexis’s shows) .
She is warm and kind, and meets with us at the top floor salon, the new
showroom for clients who wish to buy from the haute couture line. The soft
lighting of the pink and gold printed walls, made after the walls of the Grande
Palais, give a soft warm glow. The space
is small and intimate, like stepping into a private dressing room of an haute
couture client. We came on a transition
time, when the haute couture collection for Fall 2013 was traveling to Dubai
for a private presentation, then to Singapore for their couture fashion
week. The show room had couture pieces
from previous collections, which was a treat for me to see almost every haute
couture sampling from the beginning. A
small sampling of his Spring 2012 collection hung on a rack, saturated in
beautiful bright and vivid acid colors. Beaded bustiers from previous seasons
showed the detailed craftsmanship of the Cecile Henri Atelier, the house that
produces superior embroideries for Mabille. Fabric swatches and sketches laid
on a round table near the window, a design for a private client, which showed
the close relationship Alexis Mabille has with his clients. As it was pointed
out to me by Myrthe, the salon is a laboratory for client and designer to also
create new concepts for custom orders, as well as to fulfill demi couture
orders for a client who may not have such a large budget. Alexis Mabille wants
to create a personal and one-of-a-kind experience with his clients, and will
meet with them one on one. Myrthe
mentioned “clients always ask: Alexis, Alexis, can he come? And he makes time
for each of them”. The salon also offers bridal options, and custom designs for
a bride to be.
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| Left to Right: The many buttons on a Alexis Mabille smoking. Bow necklaces. Gwen Stefani wearing a Alexis Mabille Haute Couture hat from the Spring 2012 collection, on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. Alexis Mabille bow ties in Plisse Velvet. Photos by Wilson McCord |
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| The embroidered and beaded bustiers from the Haute Couture collections. Photo by Wilson McCord. |
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| One of my favorite Alexis Mabille Haute Couture pieces from Spring 2011. Photo by Wilson McCord |
At 11 rue
de Grenelle, Paris, is the address of the stand-alone, Alexis Mabille flag ship
store. Our second stop just to see the first Alexis Mabille (many other locations to follow in other
cities worldwide) which houses the ready-to-wear and accessories
collections for both men and women. The
store reflects a clean and modern vibe, perfect back drop for the flamboyant
and chic clothes that have a fun and casual spirit. The walls are adorned with
large mirrors (Alexis collects vintage
mirrors) with a color palette of soft pink, and of course, black and white.
It is the perfect vision for an Alexis Mabille boutique, modern, yet youthful
and playful. Alexis Mabille has
established himself as the darling of Paris, and has set his mark in ready to
wear and haute couture. He has won the hearts of a new generation, and a strong
following that will carry him on to the future.
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| Spring 2012 selection of vivid haute couture samples. Photo by Wilson McCord |
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| The façade of the 11 rue de Grenelle Alexis Mabille Flagship store. Photo by Wilson McCord |
