Schiaparelli Haute Couture by Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix's sketch for Schiaparelli Haute Couture on Invite, Fall 2013.
 Photo by David Pedroza, for Master the Art of Style, 2013. 

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Christian Lacroix was the highlight of the Fall 2013 Haute Couture Collections. His collaboration with the House of Schiaparelli was a triumph of its own, for both the designer and the storied house.  Elsa Schiaparelli has always been an inspiration to Mr. Lacroix when it came to designing his collections under his own name, so when it came to designing for the house that bared her name, it was a natural, creative force. Mr. Lacroix designed the collection without the aid of the archives, but solely on the spirit of the house and what Schiaparelli represented.  Presented in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the 18 piece collection was displayed on mannequins; some of the looks stood still on a shocking pink carpet, while others rotated on a mirrored platform.

The collection felt very Lacroix, while still, there were so many Elsa Schiaparelli signatures. It is easy to say that Elsa Schiaparelli deeply influenced fashion, with surrealism, the modernist age, and art, which Christian Lacroix emphasized. Signatures such as the Iconic lobster were immortalized in an ultra-luxurious, sequin and beaded crimson accessory, and long-haired, goat fur, was used on boots and trims, to resemble Elsa’s love for monkey fur. Her love for the circus also played a role in the playful and youthful aesthetics of the collection, making the looks chic and regal without making it feel too serious. Playful details, such as oversized cargo pockets on a jacket, that created a flattering peplum, shocking pink fur poufs, and a color palate of saturated acid green, shocking pink (of course), crimson red, and vibrant magenta. The legendry Lacroix pouf silhouette was everywhere, from jabots on a green blouse, to skirts, and pockets. Stand out looks included a vibrant red jacket, festooned with black ribbon and jet embroideries, paired with pouf-faille pants; An oversized cargo-pocket cum peplum jacket; a “monkey fur” goat hair jacket with a regal navy faille ball skirt, adorned with an acid green bow; and an acid green mousseline silk gown.  Sadly, it was told the collection is not for sale (even to the most die-hard couture client), but the house of Schiaparelli did capture our attention and respect. We thank Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Lacroix for making us dream!

 

                                                       Image source by ImaxTree Fall 2013

A Case for Alexis Mabille and Christophe Josse

Paris, July 2013

By Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

For more than one decade I have been attending the defiles of Christophe Josse, and I have always admired his elegance, lightness, and modernity. It seems now that his time has really come.  No longer does he take a backseat as an invited member.  And, Christophe Josse is not only a full fledged member of Haute Couture, his is one of the most sought after invitations in Paris.  I would even venture to say that the truly American fashion savvy girl not only knows his name but is aware of his fluid, feminine, streamlined style thanks to online stores such as ModeWalk.com.  I was somewhat taken aback that Josse showed an ivory only collection.  His use of color in his day suits and evening dresses are memorable.  But times change and so do we.

 

Christophe Josse for Torrente, Autumn 2003

photo courtesy of www.fashionlines.com

 

Tribute was paid to Yves Saint Laurent with Mr. Josse’s s version of the sarcophagus coat.

Very of the moment and Gatsby was the pleated drop waist gown, surely one of the most coveted pieces of the presentation.  In fact we saw a lot of the drop waist at Josse (and then the following day at Chanel).  This was a languid and eternal show, a pleasure experience and a clear imprint on our collective fashion conscience.

Then there is Alexis Mabille.  He is a more recent phenomenon of the eponymous bow.

Christine Suppes in Paris with Cameron Silver in Alexis Mabille Shirt.

 

It’s a bit of marketing bait, but who doesn’t love bows, especially during Couture Week?  Having said that, his show is also one of the hottest invitations of the week, and attracts the serious collectors who buy his exquisite gowns.  They’re pretty and flattering and never wrong.  What’s not to love? 

 Josse and Mabille were all over Paris during Couture Week, hitting every party and mingling with clients.  Imagine Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent or Jean Paul Gaultier ever mingling with clients.   Times certainly have changed!



                                                      Runway Images, by stylebistro.com