MASTER the ART of STYLE

Chadwick Bell Fall 2012

2012-03-02T09:51:00.001-05:00

Top Video and Bottom Right photo by Wilson McCord for Master the Art of Style

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

For Fall 2012, Chadwick Bell's muse was a woman created by his intellectual, imaginative mind. Driven by his deep passions for beauty, cultivated from photographs by Bob Richardson's Anjelica Huston, and Arlene Gottfried's Midnight, Chadwick Bell created a collection that stirs one's emotions, and was touched with a French savoir faire! Chadwick Bell is one of very few American designers who's work evoke an haute couture quality and spirit. The muse of the collection is "A perfect woman in an imperfect situation" as he puts it. Bell's line up was absolutly beautiful, containing all the right notes, and executed in the richest colors and fabrics. Day wear was kept minimal and abstract, with soft volumes and dense textures. Suits were immaculately tailored to perfection, nipped at the waist, with soft feminine shoulders (a favorite was a suit created in a gold floral lame by Jakob Schlaepher textiles ). Lipstick red wool created soft elegant day dresses, that would make Tippi Hedren swoon, while rich, plush velvet was paired with radzimir silk to create modern, yet classic, cocktail ensembles. Stand out looks: boxy coat adorned with silver fox fur from saga furs, a velvet peplum organza blouse paired with an embroidered lame skirt, and a green, spotted jacquard chiffon gown with feathers applied by hand. This is one of the best to come from a designer who strives to be his own, never foregoing into trends, but creating the most beautiful and quality clothes in the United States. No doubtedly, Chadwick Bell will become a legend in his own right!

Runway Photos by Alessandro Viero

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-02-16T19:18:00.002-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Lightness, best sums up Elie Saab's Spring 2012 haute couture collection. Over the seasons, Elie Saab's hand has soften, creating delicate and lovely gowns, that have been a favorite among red carpet attendees. This collection was touched with soft, spring colors such as a warm peach, soft baby yellow, crystal blue, peony pink, all bunched with a bold, sea foam green and white, botanical print; creating a bouquet of charming, soft, and elegant dresses. Silhouettes were classic, regal gowns, and short, volumes, most with long sleeves in organza or embellished tulle. Saab's beading have become more refined, and require more skilled hands to create these embroideries that seam to float over the fabric, instead of weighing them down. Lace pieces were dense, yet light as a feather..... Elie Saab has shown his softer side, proving that he and his atelier have evolved for the better.

Photos Courtesy of Elie Saab

Valentino Haute Couture spring 2012

2012-02-15T15:37:00.002-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The purpose of Haute Couture is to create the best quality clothing that fits the body to perfection, that are exclusive and unique. There is nothing superficial about making beautiful clothes, although, a simple day dress may cost upwards to 34,000 euros, but clients demand the best fabrics, the best workmanship, the best fit, and the sense that they are wearing a vision of an artist they love. At Valentino, spring 2012 collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, succeeding in giving their clients exactly what they want, great, feminine, quality clothes. These designers kept the aesthetics and integrity of it original founder, creating couture dresses that real women wear (since last year, sales in couture at Valentino have gone up 80 percent). Marie Antoinette seems to have gotten the best of Pier and Maria, in creating whimsical, graceful gowns suited for Her Royal Highness's garden tea party. Long prairie, blossom printed, organza gowns were lovely, in their simplicity and modesty (most dresses were long sleeves). Silk China silk taffeta coats and ball gowns were embroidered with self, gathered scrolls and spiral inserts. Large usefull pockets were in every dress and skirt, a hint of practicality. Some pieces were so intricate and special, such as a suit covered in soft pastel green sequins and golden embroidery, and a delicate chiffon dress, covered in clear, glass beading. Ball gowns were appliqued with layers of fragile lace, and pieces to look like cozy quilts. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri has mastered bringing a story to the house of Valentino, with out compromising the houses integrity, and most of all keeping their clients happy!

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master The Art Of Style, 2012

House of Worth Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-02-14T22:34:00.000-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The pleated paper fan was invented in Japan, around the 6th to 8th century, which became a staple among the royal court of Japan; Fans were given as prized gifts to the Emperor (could be thought of as a great hostess gift). The fan was the source of inspiration for designer Giovanni Bedin, the creative director to the revived House of Worth. The full, sweeping shape, and pleats gave way to exaggerated silhouettes, rich textures, and feminine forms. An eight piece collection of Royal worth haute couture dresses, showing that haute couture is a form of experimentation and great craftsmanship! Bedin's vision of strong shoulders, nipped in waist, and pleated fans transforms the female body, creating beautiful contours, and showcasing exquisite couture hand work. Beautiful, monochromatic looks of Imperial Red, Onyx Black, Ecru, and the prettiest, lightest pink grace the surfaces of manipulated silks to create dramatic, blooming, fans. This is one of the best collections to come from Giovanni Bedin for the House of Worth, proving this historic house is alive and thriving!

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

On Aura Tout Vu Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-02-09T15:25:00.002-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The beauty of Light and the power of Fire were the inspirations behind the Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection by On Aura Tout Vu. Yassen Samouilov and Livia Stoianova, are the creative duo behind the brand that has captured haute couture with humor and playfulness, with their quirky and whimsical creations. This collection captures the essence of a modern woman searching for a dream to become a reality. I must mention the prints in this collection are remarkable; Fire works exploded on a fox trimmed, beaded cape, mystic blue smoke printed around a soft gown, and burning flames, roaring on satin gowns and dresses. The silhouettes were long and soft, or short with volume, very feminine with a slight sexual appeal. The final piece was white tulle and organza gown, swathered in smoke, creating dark romantic and mysterious abeyance. The background of the runway was lined in tracks with flames burning, capturing the mood of each look. This is one of the best collections On Aura Tout Vu have done and they have inspired us with their vision of light!

All Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

New York Fashion Week: Preview Chadwick Bell Fall 2012 Pret-a-Porter

2012-02-08T17:16:00.002-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Tomorrow, February 9, 2012, is the opening day of NY fashion week. American designers will be showing their Fall 2012 collections. Master the Art of Style, has been privileged to write and experience the work (as well as behind the scenes) of some of the best designers in the US, who's work is exceptional and meets the standard of Haute Couture; after all our main objective is to offer only the best to our readers! Last week, I made a special visit to the atelier of Chadwick Bell, who is one of the best American Ready-to-Wear designers, with an international sensibility and exceptional workmanship that is comparable to Haute Couture. Here at Master the Art of Style, we continuously cover his collections (here is a story we featured on the designer back in 2010). Chad was holding a special preview of his Fall 2012 collection; its so great to see a true talent evolve and perfect his craft. The ambiance of his atelier is so relaxed and sophisticated, which reflects his work. The colors are beautiful, the garments themselves are gorgeous. I will not share exactly what everything looked liked (we will cover his show and share the beauty latter on). All I can say at the moment is that suits are immaculately cut, textures are rich (Jakob Schlaepher textiles), and silhouettes are strong and feminine!

Chadwick Bell at work in his New York Atelier.

Photos courtesy of Chadwick Bell, 2012

Bird of Paradise: Julien Fournié Spring 2012 Haute Couture

2012-02-06T18:26:00.001-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Julien Fournie spring 2012 collection was celebration of color and form! Julien Fournie, who established his couture house in 2009, and is the former creative director of Torrente Haute Couture, has been working on creating collections that are modern and unique. This collection was a break through in technology, an innovated design; a collaboration with Fashion Lab using 3D technology to create silhouettes, and fabric rendering, with 3 dimensions. Although modern in the technology, all this could have not been possible with out the artistic and colorful mind of Julien Fournie. The silhouettes were contemporary, modern cuts, keeping strong feminine forms. Jackets and vest, were long and linear with sharp shoulders and plunging necklines, adorned with whimsical prints and techno embroideries. Fournie is a master of taking unusual materials and making them work for the human body; He understands a woman's body and movement. The use of vinyl, neoprene and silks, along with long paillettes, to create soft as air gowns, immaculately cut jackets, and edgy, sexy day dresses and skirts. Exceptional pieces from the spring collection are, a white evening gown with "fans" of vinyl paillettes (reminiscent of a Brid of Paradise) and a taupe gown with square "techno" white paillettes. Julien Fournie understands his clients, and works hard to give them an alternative vision, with out loosing reality or quality. These are true attributes of a couturier; using his house as an environment of experimentation, to create clothes of great workmanship!

All Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

Christophe Josse Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-02-02T14:29:00.000-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Last January, Christophe Josse was granted the official title of Grand Couturier by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the governing body of Paris's Haute Couture. A title well deserved for a couturier that has exemplified great design and workmanship in couture. For Spring 2012, Christophe Josse presented a beautiful, feminine collection of modern, wearable, feminine clothes. The show, held in the Salons France-Ameriques, in Paris's 8th arrondissement, was the perfect, yet contrasting, setting for a clothes that are well suited for a modern, contemporary woman, who appreciates refined clothing with exceptional details. Day wear was strong, dresses cut with geometrical seams, but constructed in a way that exude softness and curved silhouettes; finished in the most luxurious, sponged wool and silk crepe with lace inserts. Christophe Josse spoke to his clients with soft volumes and geometric forms, using all fabrics to their full potential. Beading was kept dense and monochromatic, or created by the use of the fabric itself (one evening dress had a a crocodile effect created by diamond shaped organza pieces). Some pieces were adorned with clear Lucite long bubbles, a suggestion of jewelry with an inspiration in sculpture. Colors went from far ends of the color spectrum, from light blush pinks, to rich, saturated emerald greens and fuchsia. Exceptional pieces included a pencil skirt, covered in a black and white ombre, paillette sequins; a black sequined and looped ribbon, little black dress; and the bridal gown, in fluted organza, adorned in the back with ruffles. Christophe Josse has created a strong following in the past years, from working girls to Saudi Princesses, but he creates clothes that will be desired for more generations to come.

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-02-01T17:09:00.000-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Riccardo Tisci has set his mark on the House of Givenchy, a house with a strong heritage and legend. For spring 2012, Tisci brought back familiar pieces from the "Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Archives", and has collectively brought his vision that he used in previous collections and most recent (some pieces have motifs from mens collection). Riccardo Tisci sites the movie Metropolis by Fritz Lang, as a source of insperation, but one can see the Art-Deco, 1920's flapper clad woman. Nevertheless, Tisci managed to take our breath away, with mind-blowing, haute couture workmanship that has been the main focus of every Givenchy Couture collection. Comprised of 10 looks, and assembled in white, black and brown, each piece has the opulance of Château de Versailles, with the ease of a t-shirt. Gorgeous leather ensembles where made of pieced leather into small squares and then painstakingly sewn on to silk or tulle to composse star motifs and crocodile skins. An atelier premiere easly took 350 hours, plus, to make each creation. Some looks where accessorised with ornate, indonesian jewelry and shoes, which looked more like objects d' art; one can really appreciate them as works of art. The stand out look was a sling skirt, with immaculate, sequined scales and caviar beaded fringe, paired with a simple tank. Riccardo Tisci has surely proved he is a grand couturier and will continue to inspire us.

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-01-31T19:01:00.001-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

For Spring 2012 haute couture, Alexandre Vauthier has managed to create a collection perfect for a modern woman. Alexandre Vauthier, a veteran of Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, has created his own identity of a post-modern, sexy, yet glamorous woman with the knowledge in great workmanship and fit. These exits evoked the glamour of Jean Harlow, techno, and a very demure sex appeal. Models stomped down the runway, like amazonian goddesses, dripping with soft silks, glass Lesage beading, gabardine, and feathered ensembles. Soft tailoring was paired with sleek, black vinyl leggings and spiked heels. Streamers trailed behind jumpers, and gowns where cut on the bias to perfection. One suit, a simple boxy jacket and pencil skirt, had a blouse exploding with white ostrich feathers. Highlights of the collection were ombre gowns with lightly tinted ostrich feathers and a black paillette Smoking Tuxedo, that closed the show. Alexandre Vauthier goes from strength to strength each season, perfecting his craft and vision, and proving that he knows what women want.

All Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style 2012

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-01-31T12:29:00.017-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
Alexis Mabille sticks to his principles season after season, making clothes for women who work and require a wardrobe that is not limited, and surpass the quality of any off the rack garment. For Spring 2012, the designer's 4Th couture collection (Alexis Mabille has always presented both ready-to wear and couture in previous years), was a bold execution of color, colors that only the bravest woman could wear. The colors of intense fuchsia, cobalt blue, Robbin-egg blue, and chartreuse, where saturated into simple, 1930's linear silhouettes; silhouettes reminiscent of Lucien Lelong and Maggy Rouff, couturiers that where sought after by Hollywood starlets, in their day for long, negligee, inspired dress. Alexis kept his contemporary vibe, which one would expect from a young couturier, offering a vision for a more practical clientele. One stand out, fete of couture craftsmanship was a Faberge-inspired strapless cocktail dress, encrusted in sea foam green sequins, and gold thread embroidered scrolls. Each model was festooned with an over sized, floral headpiece, and their faces painted to coordinate their ensemble. Alexis Mabille knows how to keep his clients on their toes with out giving up his integrity or vision.

photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

The Art of Haute Couture: Dior Couture spring 2012

2012-01-30T18:11:00.017-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
Haute Couture has been known as a way for designers to express them selves through experimentation of fashion with an emphases on workmanship. Through the years new ideas have changed fashion and inspired the world, but Haute Couture became a tool for marketing and brand image.The tables have turned, making workmanship and quality as the main focus to drive sales.The workmanship of haute couture was evident, with Bill Gaytten's second couture outing for the house of Dior. Gaytten analyzed the inner workings of a haute couture garment, and reveled its beauty to the outside surface. Delicate, fine layers of organza and crain or horse hair, created nipped waist day dresses that would make Grace Kelly swoon. Fine, window pane prints, where in fact created by individual sequins sewn by hand.
Small irregular squares where painstakingly applied to organza, by hand, to create a crocodile effect, with out giving up the integrity of softness. There was a lightness and ease to Gaytten's second couture Collection for Dior, and much of it seemed to be inspired by its founder and his ideal look, the New Look, which was introduced in 1947. Though nostalgic in reference, the collection was fresh and modern. Some pieces where very simple, with a few pleats and top stitching to adorn them, making it it obvious that Haute Couture is no longer a marketing tool, but a craft of making quality clothes for real women to wear every day. The restrain in the color palette makes it easy for a client to imagine her self wearing these creations, leaving the color up to the clients decision.
Bill Gaytten did not leave fantasy out of the equation, the end of the show was filled with lavishly frilled and beaded cocktail dresses, and ravishing ball gowns that makes one dream of being a princess.

photos by Stephanie Kaufman, for Master the Art of Style

Debut: Rami Al Ali Haute Couture Spring 2012

2012-01-27T15:52:00.007-05:00

by April Wirth Hall, Paris Correspondent
Paris, Jan. 25 -- The Syrian designer couldn't have chosen a more beautiful, classically Parisian setting for his first presentation in the city, and what a presentation it was! A handful of gorgeously embellished dresses and gowns decorated the gilded interior of Le Maurice, creating a spectacular scene of glamour and refinement. Al Ali took note of trends, including a gown of intricate cut-outs and of course a few Haute Couture upgrades on sequins. The brilliant crystal-embellished pieces stole the show however, glittering wonderfully in the light as the models moved. Al Ali creates classic, yet highly ornamented pieces for the modest woman; given such a talent, he shall undoubtedly find Paris a very welcoming city.

Photos by April Wirth Hall, for Master the Art of Style

ModeWalk.com: E-commerce Site brings Haute Couture

2012-01-20T12:49:00.014-05:00

ModeWalk's Founders Beatrice Pang, Henri Deshays, Bravos's Bevy Smith, and Indre Rockefeller, photo from BFA

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
On January 18, 2012, ModeWalk.com officially opened its Paris Universe with a Launch Party in New York, hosted by ModeWalk's Fashion Fashion Director, Indre Rockefeller. The intimate cocktail was held at Sant Ambroeus on Madison, to celebrate the launch of an e-commerce site that is changing the way people buy clothes. ModeWalk, founded by Beatrice Pang and Henri Deshays, brings unique products from Parisian ateliers that offer unique, beautifully made clothes, shoes, and accessories that are not easily accessible. This gives talented designers the opportunity to expand there exposure and give customers the opportunity to experience fresh, new, designs. ModeWalk will also be the first, and only, on line shopping destination to offer Haute Couture from some of Paris's best couturiers such as Christophe Josse, On Aura Tout Vu, and Alexandre Vauthier; arranging private appointments, fittings, and consultations. The site also includes, individual worlds of each designer, behind the scenes photos, and runway images. ModeWalk brings a personalized experience to its costumer at the comfort of their own home, with just one click! ModeWalk.com

ModeWalk.com Paris Universe

On Aura Tout Vu's world, with close ups of each Haute Couture Creation. Haute Couture gown, price upon request, by special order only, www.ModeWalk.com

photos from ModeWalk.com

Holiday Luxury Gift ideas 2011

2011-12-05T18:15:00.025-05:00

Gift 1: Meet iconic fashion designer Carolina Herrera, attend her runway show, visit her showroom and shop her collection.$18,500
Includes:
• Round-trip business-class airfare for two
• Four nights at the fames New York Palace Hotel
• Two premier seats at the Carolina Herrera Fall 2012 runway show at Lincoln Center
• An insider’s visit to the showroom, where you’ll meet the designer and her team
• A $5000 credit to privately shop the Fall 2012 collection in the showroom with Marisol Rivera (your expert Saks personal shopper) and a Carolina Herrera expert
• Dinner for two a Carolina Harrera’s favorite restaurant
• Luxury car service throughout your stay

Exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue. Please contact Marisol Rivera at Saks for further details:
t: (001) 212-940-2149
e: marisol_rivera@S5A.com

Gift 2: Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Cape and Gown in Silk Chiffon, order color or print of your choice with 3 fittings, Cape $ 9,050 and Gown $18,000.Please contact Marisol Rivera at Saks for further details:
t: (001) 212-940-2149
e: marisol_rivera@S5A.com

Gift 3: Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Couture 'Zip' necklaces and cuffs. This style is made from white gold set with diamonds, prices start at $597,000 and up. By special Order athttp://www.vancleef-arpels.com/

Gift 4: A stay at the Dior Atelier Suite at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City. Email: concierge@purentonline.com for hotel suite packages, room pricing, and availability

Gift 5: The most expensive purfume in the world, No 1 by Clive Christian, tope notes of Pineapple, plum, mirabelle, and white peach. $865.00 at Saks Fifth Avenue

Please contact Marisol Rivera at Saks for further details:
t: (001) 212-940-2149
e: marisol_rivera@S5A.com

Gift 6: A vacation in the South of France: A villa escape in Cote d'Azur, France. Comfortable host a party of 14 for a week, $21,531.00 per week. http://www.palmerparker.com/

Gift 7: Art! The Hysterical Mother, 2007, by Louise Bourgeois, Price Upon Request. Contact: mailto:mcristopher@hauserwirth.com at Hauser & Wirth Gallery , New York City

Gift 8: The Luxury of Fur: Revillon Persian lamb trench coat with mink pockets, $31,089.00. http://www.brownsfashion.com/

Gift 9: Best gifts are always the ones you make your self! Fendi Baguette Needlepoint Kit, everything you need to make your own, signature Fendi baguette. Available to pre-order for $995 at Neiman Marcus

Gift 10: The most important gift of all, spending time with friends and family! Priceless!

Happy Holiday's,

David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Handmade in Silicon Valley II: Camille K

2011-11-07T18:00:00.010-05:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor At Large

(Editor’s note: this is the second in our series ‘Handmade in Silicon Valley’. Our goal is top show our readers that not only the finest high technology in the world is produced in the Valley, but a flowering of gifted fashion and accessory ateliers exist here as well).

This story is about a love affair with France,craftsmanship, and couture. Carla Labat’s grandmother was a hat maker in Pennsylvanian the 1880’s. A photograph from that time popped into Carla’s head when she was visiting the Paris Flea Market. Looking at gold bullion passementerie, she believes her jewelry line CAMILLE K (named for her daughter)was born. She began collecting gold and silver bullion trims, pearls,beads and rhinestones. Twenty-two years later, Carla now has a chic Parisian-infused atelier in the heart of Silicon Valley. Her contacts with the French embroidery companies are extensive and her current collection features necklaces, chokers, brooches and bracelets utilizing original Prevost trimmings, the same Prevost that Chanel used when her company was young.

Carla says that every piece of stone,buckle or embroidery she has collected for nearly 25 years in France represents people, places and eras. She is married to a Frenchman, and her beautiful daughter Camille is the brand representative. Camille K Couture has been featured in Allure, San Francisco Magazine and other luxury publications.

Camille K is available at http://camillek.com/

Photos Courtesy of Camille K

One of a Kind: RARE VIntage

2011-10-31T10:41:00.021-04:00

Rare Vintage Founder and Owner, Juliana Cairone

In New York City you can find the latest of anything, from the Chanel's new Lame Lace overalls at Bergdorf Goodman, to Dior's Spring 2012 chiffon frocks, available through a trunk shows at Saks Fifth Avenue. There is a point when you had enough of the latest "it" items or have a desire to be different, so vintage has become a must have in many wardrobes. When it comes to vintage the BEST place to go in New York City is RARE VINTAGE. Rare Vintage like a candy store, once your in, you go gaga over the haute couture gowns, vintage finds from every designer you can imagine, and those anonymous pieces that have a history more alluring than any designer label. The owner her self, Juliana Cairone, is just as fabulous as her showroom, and has a eye for finding rare and beautiful pieces that not only become must haves, but collectible. This stylish fashionista shares with us the history and concept of Rare Vintage......

David Pedroza: What inspired you about vintage couture, and how did it lead to opening Rare Vintage?
Juliana Cairone: RARE vintage came about accidentally because of my husband, my mother-in-law and a head cold.
We have an apartment here in the city and a house on Centre Island and my clothes had been slowly creeping out of the closets for years in both places until it got to the point my husband and my mother-in-law ganged up on me and said I had to do something about it. As I was going through things I realized I had a lot of vintage, looked on line saw and that there was a vintage show in a couple of weeks. The woman running the show was kind enough to let me participate even though I was not a dealer. Shortly afterwards I had a terrible head cold and was in bed for a week. I had enjoyed doing the vintage show and started writing a business plan for the store and I found the space on 57th Street that same week.

DP: What is your first vintage purchase?

JC: When I was a little girl, dressing up in my grandmothers dresses from the 1950s and 1960s was a serious hobby. And then when I was in college I wore a lot of sheer floral print dresses that I use to buy in a barn. They were literally a couple of dollars each! But my first serious vintage purchase was a Valentino haute couture gown from the 1970s that I found in Italy for a couple of hundred dollars. It fit like it was made for me. I wore it to the Met Gala for opening of the show Goddess. There were three women that evening wearing exactly the same current season white Valentino gown and I think that was the moment when I understood I did not want to have a dress anyone else would have and wearing vintage is wearing something special. I later loaned my Valentino dress to Calista Flockhart and she wore it to the Academy Awards.

Calista Flockhart in Juliana's Valentino Haute Couture, Circa 1970's

DP: Who is your favorite designer, and does his or her style influence the vintage you acquire?
JC: I have designers I love: Balenciaga, Madame Gres, Yves Saint Laurent but truthfully I love a little bit of everyone. I love a little Courreges dress from the 1960s, I love Marc Jacobs' grunge collection for Perry Ellis, I love Capucci, I love Chanel from Coco Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, I even love this extraordinary Bob Mackie bolero I bought recently and I certainly did not think that I could love Bob Mackie until I saw that particular piece.

DP: Do you share the same taste in vintage as your clients?
JC: I only buy pieces for the store that I personally love or find interesting. I bought a spectacular Issey Miyake coat that is not at all my personal taste but as an object, I knew that is was an incredible collector's item and it sold immediately. In fact, I had clients and a museum fighting for it.

DP: Who is the Rare Vintage customer, and what does she want out of her vintage clothes?
JC: I don't think we have a typical RARE vintage client. We have very young girls who are building a collection (everyone has become much more aware of the value and uniqueness of vintage), we have clients who are very social and are out in the evening often and they don't want to be wearing the same dress as someone else, we have people who are just collectors and people who collect and wear.

DP: The workmanship in vintage and contemporary haute couture is so spectacular; has it changed the way you see quality in ready-to-wear or fashion in general in today’s market?
JC: I love the word 'petersham'. Petersham is the little interior grosgrain ribbon belt that is inside many vintage couture pieces. It holds the dress to the body and makes an enormous difference in fit. Valentino Couture dresses have a petersham and a little ribbon that is almost like a bodysuit so you have to step into the dress. Brilliant, a little complicated to get into but when you sit down and your dress does not bunch around the shoulders you understand completely. When I go into Bergdorfs and look at dresses which cost thousands of dollars, none of them have a petersham.

DP: How did you come about the Valentino Haute Couture Sale?
JC: It is funny but I have found that one month we may get calls with almost exclusively Saint Laurent or Chanel to sell. So it happened that when I was in Italy (I do quite a bit of buying for the store in France and Italy), I happened to come across Valentino Couture pieces. They were not from one person and the years ranged from very rare and early 1960s pieces to the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. We thought it would be great to have a capsule sale of the collection on 1stdibs.

Selection of vintage Valentino Haute Couture From Rare Vintage: (Left) Pink Gazar gown, Circa 1962, price upon request, (Center Left) Beaded Leopard organza dress, price upon request, (Center Right) Black Velvet and Gazar Dress, $2,400, (Right) Silk organza and Lace pin tuck gown, circa 1978, $3,000. Available at www.1stdibs.com

DP: Do you think vintage clothes, or vintage couture in particular, has become very important in today’s world?
JC: I think vintage has become very important in todays world. For one thing, designers source from us for inspiration for future collections and because shopping has become depressingly global - you can find a Prada store anywhere, all carrying the same merchandise - so what is the point of going to Milan and buying Prada when you can buy the same thing here in New York. And with the internet everything is so saturated. We have all seen the new Valentino collection on the internet and then we will see it on actresses who will borrow it and then finally it will be in the stores and by then you are already a little tired of it. But with vintage, even though it is something old, it is actually in a way something new and something which has not been seen.

DP: What are your 3 favorite pieces currently at your showroom?
JC: One of my favorite new pieces is a slinky rust colored jersey Yves Saint Laurent rive gauche evening dress with a plunging back and gold leather straps. It is so Saint Laurent and to me when I see it, I can also see Saint Laurent with LouLou de la Falaise, Betty Catroux, Marina Schiano all hanging out together laughing in a restaurant in Paris. It takes me to a different place and I love that transformative, dreamy quality in vintage. My other favorite pieces are not in the store yet but will be soon: it is a collection of Chanel couture runway jewelry. I have never seen anything like it for sale and the pieces are just incredible. It is all from the late late 80 and very early 90s.

DP: What are Rare Vintage’s 3 must haves for fall 2011?
JC: I f I were to choose three pieces that are must haves for the fall from RARE vintage I would choose a whimsical animal print sweater from Krizia (Givenchy and Balenciaga were definitely inspired by Krizia's original animal print sweaters), An incredibly beautiful couture heavy silk and velvet gown from Givenchy Couture that I am madly in love with. And a fun cropped vintage fur.

Animated Sweater, T Rex by Krizia, $650 at Rare Vintage NYC

Velvet Sheath with Leather and gold sequin appliques, Givenchy Haute Couture, price upon request at Rare Vintage NYC

Fox Fur stole, 1950's Jean Patou Haute Couture, price upon request at Rare Vintage NYC

All Items are available at Rare Vintage NYC, 24 West 57 street, Suite 501. Visit the site at www.rarevintage.com

Journey as a Dior Couture Client

2011-10-20T16:29:00.012-04:00

Dior Haute Couture Garment label

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

When I first began Master the Art of Style, my initial intent was to write about my passion for Haute Couture, and to share with readers every aspect, from workmanship to design. I have spent many years studying the craft, its creators, and the process of creating something so beautiful and special. For years, the public has questioned the relevance and existence of Haute Couture, and although a revival or rebirth of this craft has come, many still believe Couture is on its last leg. But, as a true believer, that couture is still relevant and influential; I have decided to share my first experience as a “couture client” and to share with my readers an experience that is truly one of a kind.

As Editor in Chief of Master the Art of Style, I cannot proclaim I am an “Haute Couture Client”, but was given the privilege to forgo a process that only a privilege few experience. The team at Master the Art of Style has attended many couture shows in Paris, and through the reference of a friend of mine, who is a new comer to the couture circle, I was able to make an appointment at Dior haute Couture. I had miss the show in July, the first presentation by the House without Galliano. This collection, shown July 4, 2011, was designed with the creative direction of Bill Gaytten, who for the past twenty years worked closely with Galliano as collaborator and designer. The inspiration for Gayteen’s first collection was Frank Gehry and the Memphis movement of the 1980’s; a mixture of architectural form, eighties pop colors and electrifying prints, came down the runway to the beats of Grace Jones. For the press and the public, it was a dazzling, crazy, “disco” collection, but for the customer it was much more. Past the colors, sequins, and lame, where silhouettes that are well suited for the real world, and kept in line with the heritage of Christian Dior.

Runway Look, Model 1

The adaptation of the Runway look above

I was told by my appointed Dior venduse that I can see the “translations” or adaptations of this collection. I made an appointment for September, when the collection would travel to New York City, not uncommon these days, since many house send their collections to different cities around the world for clients that did not or could not attend the couture show. The collection was being presented at a prestigious, luxury hotel in New York (I can not disclose its location, in respect of the privacy of Dior’s couture clients), where clients can select designs or befitted for garments they ordered in July (my appointment was held up by a very discreet social doyenne who has been a long time Dior client). The venduse I spoke to was not on-hand to help me that day, but I had the privilege to have the help of Madame Catherine Riviere. Madame Riviere is the famed Directrice (manager) of the Dior Haute Couture Salon, she is the link between the client and the atelier, as well as the “eyes and mouth” of the designer. I was welcomed by Madame Riviere into the hotel room, a lovely hotel suite, packed with racks of Gaytten’s Fall couture collection for Dior. She guided me directly to the adaptations, which are the interpretations of the runway looks, which are more practical and wearable. Of course, I went for the tailored pieces, a Black Bar suit with Pleated organza details, a black and navy taffeta and organza topper coat, along with a black and plum jacket, paired with an organza ruffled skirt. Every piece is beautiful constructed to the standard of Haute Couture, and I was reinsured by Madame Riviere that it was true Haute Couture. The Directrice makes sure that each style I picked kept the integrity of the original design (she kept on referring to the original runway model) but with the adaptations I required for my personal life, or a clients personal request. We went through the virtues of each garment, its fit and a run through of the process I would for take if I ordered a piece. The House of Dior was kind enough to send me a hand sketch of my adaptations along with a price list of each design; Houses are very quiet about prices, and prices reflect the changes made to each design. Although haute couture prices have been ridiculed for being very high, I believe they are justified and fair. Once you experience haute couture, you can never go back to the same way of shopping and dressing. It is a whole other mind set and life style, with the reasoning that you are buying something that will fit perfectly, be made beautifully, and will last your life time, even longer. Haute Couture is a wonderful, rarified world full of beauty, and where dreams come true.

Ioma Skin Care Exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue

2011-10-18T13:16:00.008-04:00

Ioma Skin Care is now available in the USA exclusively at Saks! Invented in France 10 years ago by dermatologists, this line started as prescription only, then in the past 3 years became available over-the-counter. It is now wildly popular in France and soon here.

The line has 7 different product families to suit your specific needs. Ioma does not believe in a “skin type,” but instead analyses your unique skin needs with its photo device. Just stick your head in this device and it takes 5 pictures showing your skin in natural light, parallel polarized light to show lines/wrinkles, cross polarized light to show redness, UV light to show sun damage, and blue light to show bacteria/clogged pores. Once your skin is analyzed, you will be given custom product recommendations. Use the products, and you can come back for another skin analysis to see how they are working, and perhaps to get different recommendations once your skin has changed. The line ranges from $60-$205! Contact me for your skin analysis at t: (001) 212-940-2149 or email:

marisol_rivera@S5A.com

ML by Monique Lhuiller at Saks

2011-10-11T14:00:00.006-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Thursday Oct 13, 2011, Saks Fifth Avenue Flag Ship store in NYC, will celebrate the launch of Monique Lhuillier's diffusion line called, ML, a moderately priced line of cocktail dresses and evening gowns that reflect the designers high end vision. Monique Lhuillier will be on hand to meet clients and offer style advice. To attend the cocktail, please contact Personal Shopper Marisol at Rivera marisol_rivera@S5A.com, or visit her website, http://www.marisolrivera.com/fashion/monique-lhuillier-ml-dress-collection-launch

Also visit http://www.moniquelhuillier.com/ to veiw the collection

Paris Collection Spring 2012- Chanel

2011-10-06T12:02:00.010-04:00

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Chanel - I always find that Karl Lagerfeld has a tricky way of repeatedly producing the same thing, yet simultaneously reinventing it over and over; this season's collection boasts no exception. After performing during the show, singer and new muse Florence Welch accompanied the designer on the runway, where we saw Karl in a slightly modernized version of his ultra-classic uniform. Off to a pretty but weak start, the spring/summer collection is a mix up of hounds tooth jackets over prints, printed dresses with black insets, iridescent jacket and skirt combos, and even a track jacket. Overall, the common thread in all but 2 or 3 pairs of leather short-shorts, was tame and classic, modest pieces. The collection was one of hits and misses, with most of the hits being the more simple looks. The gorgeous, sophisticated sexy swimwear and use of the finest, lightest ethereal fabrics kept the Chanel woman very classy this season. Perhaps the most groundbreaking of all however was the proliferation of flats and low-heeled (square-toed) boots on this season's runway -- ensuring that regardless of what we wear this spring, we will definitely be walking in Chanel!

Photos by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Collections Sprint 2012- Dior

2011-10-06T11:55:00.008-04:00

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Christian Dior - This season, the Dior woman is taking a vacation from all the drama and slipping away to some sophisticated but secluded summer retreat. With her bright lipstick and raffia backpack she is going back to basics, think wide collar jackets with knee-length skirts, with an elevated outlook. For the spring/summer 2012 collections, Bill Gayten and his team were arguably the designers under the most pressure in the industry. Their response to the situation: a safe collection of pretty little separates and dresses which are almost guaranteed to be a commercial success. After the last few seasons' worth of drama at the house, this might not have been a bad call. Gayten stuck to the classic, breezy Dior fabrics such as organza, in very classic shapes that will flatter women of all sizes. Here he successfully upholds the true spirit of Dior, celebrating the woman as a lady. Although Gayten is surely not going to be revealing any Galliano-esque (sartorial!) moves anytime soon, his use of a wonderfully bright orange in the collection did add something a bit more modern. Pretty bags and shoes subtly accent the season's collection, once again promising to be big sellers.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Collections Spring 2012- Chloe and Barbra Bui

2011-10-06T11:50:00.008-04:00

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Chloe - Congratulations to Claire Waight Keller on a beautiful debut! She captured wonderfully the essence of Chloe, and might be about recapture Phoebe Philo's glory days at the house. Universally flattering horizontal lines and a mod-Safari belt slung loosely across the hips gave Claire's own touch to the flowing trousers and tops for which the house is known. Touches of color, including the oh-so-chic turquoise, were added to the muted palette of white and rosy nudes which will be dressing women all summer long. Breezy summer comfort with a decidedly modern edge reigned supreme at Chloe, and you can expect it to be a the go-to collection for working girls everywhere this summer.

Barbara Bui - For the spring/summer 2012 collection, Barbara Bui kept everything sporty. Washed silk and colour-blocking looked enticingly ready to wear for young Parisians, with white and turquoise poised to place them at the top of the trendy heap. The collection was in danger of looking more like Paris's version of high street than designer, until it took a decidedly tribal turn. Feathers, leather, and intricate embroidery proved once again just how talented this designer is. Bui's signature sexy and forward-looking style was allover this collection, with standout pieces such as track pants with a turquoise racing stripe and an incredibly embroidered tribal jacket. Matching shoes for almost every look are sure to turn up in editorials this season.

Gucci 90th anniversary : Jackie Forever at Saks Fifth Avenue

2011-10-03T16:48:00.005-04:00

During the Onassis years, Jackie O' was the perfect image of the jet set style, that was coveted by every "it" girl. Jackie's leisure style came along with the help of a leather trim, stream line, hobo bag, designed and made by Gucci. The bag was dubbed the Jackie bag, because the bag represented the epitome of Jackie Onassis personal style and position as a style Icon. In celebration of 90 years in business, Gucci and Saks Fifth Avenue in NYC will present bags worn by Jackie Onassis, and will give shoppers the history behind a Icon and her bag.

Join Gucci boutique,first level of Saks Fifth Avenue, NYC, October 5Th and 6Th, 2011.
You may also contact Saks Personal Shopper Marisol Rivera, Marisol_Rivera@s5a.com, or visit her site, http://www.marisolrivera.com/

Chadwick Bell Spring 2012

2011-09-19T17:59:00.012-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

As the music of John Adams rings through a salon at the Standard Hotel, chic, beauties, model the Spring 2012 collection of Chadwick Bell. Chic, was not the note used in most of the New York Spring 2012 collections, but Chadwick Bell designs CLOTHES for a specific client that demands a certain standard of modern, sensibility, and "chicness". Inspired by "the wife of an art collector", Bell's Spring 2012 collection had a Balenciaga silhouette, such as a printed cocoon jacket, cigarette pants, Tulip ball skirts, all rendered in fabrics with body (some jackets carried a Dior "Bar" suite shape). The clothes would suite a modern day Tippi Hendren (Bell's clothes reminded me of Alfred Hitchcock's 'Marnie') all done in blush pinks, slate grey , ecru, lime green, and colors that bring the softness of Spring, but remain sophisticated and restrained. Embellishment was kept minimal, and evening where was simple, yet elegant. Chadwick Bell has created a following of chic of very discreet women (Stand outs at the presentation where, Carolina Herrera and couture collector Judith Corrente). After seeing Chadwick Bell's vision for Spring 2012, it is not hard to imagine a chic, intellectual, social doyenne, wearing these looks out on the streets, or at a Gallery opening.

Rodarte Spring/Summer 2012

2011-09-15T13:55:00.013-04:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
The A-Listers, Beyonce, Kate Winslett, Taylor Swift,accompanied by Anna Wintour and of course the Fanning girls (who follow where Rodarte goes), along with the rest of the audience, were melting in the heat of the Chelsea gallery as we waited for the most anticipated show of New York Fashion Week. Apparently it was even hotter in the tiny dressing room backstage,where the artists frantically applied then re-applied powder to the models. I am happy to report, as a long-time lover of this label, that Kate and Laura did not disappoint. The breathtaking clothes were about van Gogh. The girls always have their points of reference, but here is where I want to stop the reference. These gorgeous cocktail dresses, gowns and pant and tunic combinations on the runway sparkled and shone, while the waltz from the from Sleeping Beauty became a background tribute to the good fairy who waved her wand for Sleeping Beauty to choose what color of dress to pick before she met the Prince. Sleeping Beauty had only two colors, pink or blue. The sisters, on the other hand had van Gogh’s palette, from sunflowers to Starry Night. Boat neck shoulders only added to the allure. It is thrilling to watch Kate and Laura Mulleavy refine their collections each season. Visions of past season made their way into this show, but the taste was original and new.

Photos: Yannus Valamos

Handmade in Silicon Valley

2011-09-06T12:25:00.007-04:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

Approximately eighteen months ago, pastry chef Jennifer Chao and her engineer sister Angel decided to take an entrepreneurial risk, not exactly uncommon in the Silicon Valley, the Mecca of High Tech. The way they went about their risk is what is uncommon. Inspired by their mother’s love of European sensibility---and especially icons Audrey Hepburn, Jane Austen, “Sisi”, Empress Elizabeth of Austria, and the Duchess of Devonshire, the sisters followed their hearts and began to create ethereal handbags. Utilizing old lace from the Lace Museum in near by Sunnyvale, finds from the Paris flea market, and Asian street vendors, Jennifer and Angel began crafting delicate, one of a kind handbags for the customer who probably also wears Blahnik, Louboutin and Dior. “Our bags are statement pieces. It takes a special person to pull them off.” With up to 24 hour of handwork, these embroidered, encrusted and bejeweled bags are works of art. They will retail for between a thousand to two thousand dollars—a bargain for anything handmade in Silicon Valley. For more information, please email angelchao.info@gmail.com

"Sortir Le Soir" : New Fragrance by Susan Tabak

2011-08-26T15:10:00.013-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Author of Chic in Paris, and style guru, Susan Tabak Launched a new sent, Sortir le Soir,a Fragrance celebrating femininity and sensuality. On Wednesday,August 24, 2011, Susan hosted an intimate cocktail at her Chic Manhattan apartment, inviting bloggers and fans to celebrate the launch of the fragrance, which is a first for Susan. A mixture of gardenia white florals with notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, jasmine, freesia, amber and vanilla, that gives it a light, sweet, beautiful scent. Susan Tabak had the help of the "Nose" Francoise Caron,(who also created such scents as Hermes Eau d'orange) to create this enchanting fragrance. Each note works well together, beautifully, balancing each other, making the fragrance chic and ultra feminine.

"Sortir Le Soir" By Susan Tabak, $125 at http://www.susantabak.com/

Paris Haute Couture Fall 2011: Valentino

2011-08-24T16:55:00.009-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's collection for Valentino Couture, Fall 2011, was inspired by a Russian Princess. A fairytale story, has become reality for many women who dream of being a princesses. Princess or not, these clothes were luxury and beauty, the best that has come from the minds of this dynamic duo. Silhouettes where kept simple and minimal, from long sleeve cylinder gowns, to bias cut halters. The work that went into these pieces were evident in the beading and drape, such as the opening dress, composed of tulle with zigzags of gunmetal and gold beads, 750 hours of hand work. The hand used to create this collection was light and soft; best example being the soft wool crepe jackets paired with floor-length pencil skirts (jackets requiring at least 52 hours of work and skirts, 20 hours). The labor and quality of material that go into each piece is impressive, but it all comes down to the vision, a vision that created a dream come true.

Photo by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Haute Couture Fall 2011: Part One

2011-08-15T09:55:00.030-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The decadence of Haute Couture is breathe taking. Each bead, feather and stitch placed by hand on an array of sumptuous fabrics that long to be worn. For Fall 2011, the Paris Couture Collections celebrated, not what couture was, but what it is now. For years there has been a debate that this craft was on its last leg, and finally Couture has shown endurance through hard times, with its client list growing with new members from every age, nation, and a stronger desire for made-to-measure clothes, with a quality that can out last a life time.

New invited Giambattista Valli, has been given the privilege by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, to show his first ever haute couture collection. Valli has a strong following since he first launched his Pret-a-Porter Collection in 2005, including heavy weight couture client, Lee Radziwill. The large demand for made to measure frocks from Valli's Atelier has created an obvious path to Haute Couture. For fall 2011, Valli's collection did not disappoint, the collection looked like the work of a seasoned and well established couturier. A simple pallet of ecru, black, coral, red, and a dash of animal graced the surface of tweeds, chiffon, and tulle. Gowns were kept simple, yet grand, a cross of 1950's couture "cabin" model and Grace Kelly. Beading was dense, yet minimal. There was a lightness to the work, and the opening look was in fact a "Cabin" model look, a simple white smock worn with a sweater, a true homage to couture's past.

Azzedine Alaia, although not new, but yet has been able to be absent for the past 8 years from any runway presentation, showed a small yet strong "Semi" or "Demi" Couture collection. It was Alaia being Alaia, taking inspiration from none other than him self and staying true to his vision of what fashion is to him. The silhouettes could been have called his greatest hits, Ballooned, nipped waist, scalloped, and the column, where all embraced in supple suedes, patent Croc, perforated fabrics, lush velvet and Mongolian lamb. The clothes where all contemporary, a new classic, with sublime workmanship. It was a well deserved standing ovation for Azzedine Alaia, a designer who has been able to set him self from the rest and remain true to his own

Photos from style.com

Editor's choice: Bea Valdes Jet Black Cassanova Clutch

2011-04-08T12:14:00.003-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor and Chief

One of my favorite artisan houses at Couture Lab is Bea Valdes, a company based in Manila, Philippines. They support local craftsmanship that focus on traditional embroidery, creating elaborate, precious, pieces that can take up to eight weeks to make. There latest confection is the Cassanova clutch. Hand-beaded in Jet Black beads and Stones, in a half-moon shape; a perfect little bag for those special moments. $2,326 at Couturelab.com

Balenciaga and Spain at de Young Museum

2011-04-06T10:51:00.006-04:00

Christine Suppes (in a vintage, 1950's Balenciaga Haute Couture gown) with Hamish Bowles

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Now on view at the de Young Museum of Arts in San Francisco, 'Balenciaga and Spain'. An exhibition celebrating the work of Haute Couture Master Cristobal Balenciaga. The collection was curated by Hamish Bowles, showcasing Spain's impact on Balenciaga's work, and Spanish references that he maintained through out his career. Major patrons of the show are Nieman Marcus and our very own Editor at Large, Christine Suppes, who hosted a gala for the opening. The exhibition shows about 120 pieces of precious haute couture by Balenciaga, from both the museum and private collections, along with a book of the exhibition. Balenciaga and Spain is open till July 4, 2011.

Photos by Drew Altizer, 2011

Preview Fall 2011: Chadwick Bell

2011-03-30T17:56:00.020-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Chadwick Bell has gone from strength to strength each season, evolving in his design and craft to cater to a clientele that is most discreet and demanding. Bell presented his Fall 2011 collection in February, showing clothes for the well kept woman with a strong desire to look powerful, yet charming and feminine. The collection was shown at a lower Manhattan Art gallery with a video presentation and photographs of each look. The clothes hung on chrome racks, revealing the workmanship and virtues of each garment. Bell's presentation was like an intimate viewing at a Parisian Haute Couture salon; more rarefied and exclusive than a runway presentation at Lincoln Center. Although, the house creates ready-to-wear collections, the quality is more comparable to Haute Couture, with refined tailoring, beautiful finishes, and men's wear fabrics that are rich and luxurious (Bell's workmanship is comparable with that of James Galanos and Philipe Venet). Glen Plaids paired with moss greens, Black gazars, Warm Camels, and deep Navy's graced the surfaces of these modern tailor jackets, coats and dresses. One dress was attributed to Cristobal Balenciaga, cut in a superb manner in a rich wool silk fabric, the perfect little black dress. There was no lack of bias in the collection, which is a strong technique at Chadwick Bell, along with soft white blouses to be worn under an impeccably tailored jacket or a Olive green, patent, leather coat (a personal favorite of mine). These are beautiful clothes, and easy to pack and travel. Chadwick Bell has won the loyalty of his fans; he may not be a house-hold name, yet, but his growing clientele of the worlds best dressed women keep on coming for more.

Photos Courtesy of Chadwick Bell

Spring 2011 Haute Couture Report

2011-02-07T18:35:00.020-05:00

Chanel Haute Couture by Karl Lagerfeld

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
If Chanel and its brilliant seer Karl Lagerfeld are the arbiters for the times, we are in a simple post-depression mode. Out came the glamorous “Mom” look, a term my then twelve year old several times applied to Soccer Mothers—leggings and tunics with not a high heeled shoe to be seen. Bouchra Jarrar, a designer supported by Neiman Marcus, also did a simple sheath-like dress draped with some floating movement and strategic cut-outs, mainly at the back. Jarrar had the January cover dress in French Elle. This will be a hot look. Galliano gave his usual history lesson for Dior. Galliano said that his collection was inspired by the late fashion illustrator René Grurau, who adored the classic Dior of the fifties. The look of pencil- shaped skirts paired with voluminous jackets and little tilted hats, or else ball gowns in dozens of yards of fabric have little to do with reality of women, but for advertising fantasy, Galliano has it nailed down. The show was gorgeous escapism, and the fact that everyone is still talking about it proves that we still need to dream. Armani Privé’s shiny new fabric was very metallic and uncomfortable looking but the gowns were simple and the palette was supposedly inspired by jewels. The movie stars like Jodie Foster (Jodie Foster)? in the front row suggested Mr. Armani is still bucking for center stage, Red Carpet that is. It will take courage to wear these creations.

Bouchra Jarrar Presentation during Paris Haute Couture

Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano

Giorgio Armani Prive Haute Couture

Givenchy was a very private walk about in a salon on the Place Vendôme. Riccardo Tisci produced a small collection inspired by Japanese Butoh and created works of art. Slim gowns, some with obi belts, some embroidered top to bottom with seeds pearls, in colors from barely there to light fuchsia, gave no immediate reference to The House of Givenchy, although there was little doubt in my mind that the original Givenchy muse, Audrey Hepburn, might be slender enough to have worn this extraordinary look. Jean Paul Gautier did not disappoint. With Catherine Deneuve’s sultry recorded narration (she also sat as she always does front and center), the Glamazons (models who look like women, not waifs) strode the catwalk in classic Parisienne ensembles, some evening gown take-offs of his famous trench, all modern, hot and sexy, all very Mr. Gaultier. No history lessons here except the history of this one and only original designer left in the pantheon of Haute Couture. Last and certainly not least was on aura tout vu, who although are not the only designers creating for Lady Gaga (the afore-mentioned Mr. Armani is another), have the spirit of the moment, which means Gaga…lightness, angels and feathers. The Smoking ensemble with transparent lace trousers, and the lime green and black chiffon gown were stand-outs, but anything this team does with lace is collectible. This collection is so cool and of the moment that the audience walked away shaking their heads. Everything else seemed a little---bourgeois? ----this season.

Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture

On Aura Tout Vu Haute Couture

Photos by Yannis Vlamos and Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com

Style Diary: The Glamorous Angie Barrett

2011-02-01T18:26:00.015-05:00

Angie Barrett shining in Nameen Khan

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Angie Barrett is one of the most glamorous women in Texas. She is a respected philanthropist, art patron, and TV personalities, who has become a social fixture in Dallas with a grand sense of style. Not only does she have a high voltage style, but a personality that is kind and welcoming; She supports several charities and serves on the board of directors for Genesis Women’s Shelter, Children's Cancer Fund, Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, American Foundation for AIDS Research (Am FAR), along with other organizations. Angie’s style extends into her Art collection and home in Dallas’s Arts District, which has been featured in magazines for its unique and modern sophistication. Angie shares with us the treasures in her closet and what makes her style so special….

DP: Who is Angie Barrett today?

AB: I am, and always will be, first and foremost a mom to my daughters, Alana and Whitney. That is a constant. Other than that I feel that I am ever evolving, inventing and re-inventing myself. Depending on my mood or what is needed on any given day I am a film editor, Dear Abby, art collector, dog walker, fashion aficionado, ballroom dancer, mediator…But at the end of the day, I’m the same girl from a small East Texas town who used to spend hours in my closet telling my grandmother I needed to “visit” my clothes. A quote from the Duchess of Windsor describes me best, “A woman’s life can really be a succession of lives, each revolving around some emotionally compelling situation or challenge, and each marked off by some intense experience.”

DP: Most woman in Dallas are ruled by conservatism, you seem to have broken away from that train of thought… what inspires you to dress at the beat of your own drum?
AB: I gain inspiration from people, surroundings, travel, books, art, observing and keeping my mind open to receive the imprint. Also, I believe the way you share relationships with the people around you forms your character, personality and self confidence. I have through the years developed a keen sense of personal style that is very empowering. As time passes I feel more confident and happy, more at ease with who I am. I think it is fabulous to be a woman and celebrate our femininity by dressing up.
I am also influenced by the style icons of past decades who had a strong sense of self, represent the importance of personal style rather than temporary trends and enough confidence to break fashion rules rather than follow them. The common thread that runs through each of their lives is that they were groundbreaking in their style and attitude and changed the face of fashion forever, paving the way for others A perfect example is Millicent Rogers ( muse of Charles James) for being the first woman to collaborate with designers James, Mainbocher and Schiaparelli to invent unique pieces exactly as she wanted them…(LOVE that) and for pairing evening gowns by James with Navajo bracelets and gold jewelry or a white tailored blouse and black skirt by Valentina Schlee with pounds of turquoise and silver jewelry. Mona von Bismarck for being the first to be named the “best dressed woman in the world” by Jeanne Lanvin, Coco Chanel, Edward Molyneux, Madeleine Vionnet, and Lucien Lelong (for whom Christian Dior then worked), for oozing glamour and for being fiercely loyal to her favorite designers.(It is said that when Cristobal Balenciaga closed his design house in 1968, she spent three days in bed crying). Marisa Berenson (muse of Halston) for being the first to showcase a Pucci handbag by casually tossing three of them over her shoulder in a shoot for VOGUE, wore a Yves Saint Laurent tunic as a mini dress paired with flat suede boots, layers of cuff bracelets and a gold medallion necklace. Ines de la Fressange (Karl Lagerfeld’s muse until their falling out in 1990) for causing what ELLE magazine called the “French revolution” by pairing Levi’s 501 jeans with Chanel jackets, admitting to “jellybean binges” and for being the first model to engage the crowd. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy for her minimalist style, understated elegance and runway model’s poise. I love the fact that she wore her hair in a ponytail on her wedding day with her simple Narciso Rodriguez gown and showed such style. Kate Moss for wearing what she wants, mixing vintage with other styles of clothing and for breaking the fashion rules.

Angie Barrett making a grand appearance in Atelier Versace Haute Couture Leather and Taffeta Gown

DP: You are a celebrated Art collector… does art influence what you wear?
AB: Definitely. Clothing is an art form like other art forms. It is art that I wear. There are great and unequalled culturally and historically relevant pieces in major museums all over the world. I purchased a beautiful golden Galanos from the show GLAMOUR at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The entire collection was photographed and published under the same title as the show. Throughout history there have been collaborations between artists (or their estates) and designers: Basquiat and Valentino, Warhol and Halston, Schiaparelli and Dali, Takashi Murakami and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Julian Schnabel and Rei Kawakubo. During NewYork Fashion Week this September there was a distinct melding of art and fashion. Nicholas Ghesquiere, creative director of Balenciaga, hosted the U.S. debut of “Cindy Sherman: Untitled” a series of six images featuring the artist dressed in head-to-toe Balenciaga. Ghesquiere’s runway collection included printed shirts and dresses with quotes from Sherman’s interviews and reviews. Thakoon Panichgul and Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte even held their shows at major New York galleries. I use the same gauge for buying clothing that I do for buying art. I ask the same questions and use the same criterion. It’s the message, not the medium, that counts.

DP: Who are your favorite Artists?
AB: My favorite artists consist of the artists whose works I own and also the works I hope to own in the future. They are Dan Flavin, Andreas Gursky, Glenn Brown, Ed Ruscha, Juergen Teller, Lucian Freud, Jonah Freeman, Jack Pierson, Mark Rothko, Thomas Struth, Cindy Sherman, Gregory Crewdson, Justin Lowe, Teresita Fernandez, Michal Rovner, Adam McEwen, Stephen Rhodes, Shirazeh Houshiary, Matt Conners, Rivane Neuenschwander, Amanda Ross-Ho, Sol Lewitt and Ellsworth Kelly.

DP: Which designers create clothes that you find your self most comfortable wearing?

AB: My staple go-to designers for comfort and chic are The Row, vince., Carvan, Rick Owen Lillies, A.L.C. by Rodarte, Theory by OlivierTheyskens, Erdem, Matthew Ames, Marni underpinnings (wear them year round), and Yohji Yamomoto.

DP: You have received praise for your extravagant evening choices, such as the leather Atelier Versace gown and other haute couture pieces…What was your first haute couture purchase and what lead you to buy haute couture?
AB: My first piece of haute couture was the “Shipwrecked” gown by Alexander McQueen. I saw it in BAZAAR and was totally spellbound by the sheer beauty and obvious craftsmanship of this garment. I asked Todd Okerstrom (Couture Buyer for downtown Neiman’s) if he could ask Alexander to make the gown for me. He spoke with Alexander who said he would be delighted. When the gown arrived and I tried it on for the first time, I was officially hooked for life. (Do you think there’s couture re-hab)? I wore it to The Art Ball and had the best time and felt… I can’t think of a word to adequately describe the feeling. I have had many couture gowns since, but that will always stand out in my memory. It will be hard to top that experience.

Angie in her bespoke Alexander McQueen Gown, one of the many gems in her wardrobe

DP: Are you specific with what you want in your wardrobe?
AB: Very specific. It has everything to do with how I see myself and is always a reflection of my taste. Clothes are like ideas and opinions that are expressly ours. I try to buy, collect and own pieces that are unique and individual…pieces that others do not have. I NEVER shop with girlfriends and I don’t buy labels so much as looks…more obsessed with the artistic line rather than the bottom line. I do not use a personal shopper because I feel that doing so is tantamount to paying someone to buy their courage. I feel that confidence is very important and it is essential to look and feel at ease with your choices. I edit my closet rather brutally as I re-create and change my style and taste. I am of the same opinion as C.Z. Guest who said, “It’s important to not have too many clothes. Keep it simple. There’s only so much you can wear.” I have always told my daughters and their friends that you really only need to own six things to look chic on any budget. A black cashmere sweater, great fitting jeans, black boots and the best watch, sunglasses and handbag you can afford. (For summer the sweater would be replaced by a long-sleeved white tee and the boots by sandals or ballet flats).

DP: What are your favorite shopping destinations?
AB: Collette, Suite 114 and L’Eclaireur in Paris, Lily et Cie and Maxfield’s in L.A., Dover Street Market and Liberty in London, Bergdorf’s and Takashimaya in New York, Forty Five Ten and Barneys in Dallas

DP: What is the one piece you cannot live without?
AB: The Row leggings in every color they make.

DP: What is the best beauty advice you have?
AB: I’m going to run through what’s in my handbag in answer to this: Deborah Lippmann nail color in Just Walk Away Renee, Weleda Everon lip balm, Le Labo fragrances in Bergamote 22, Iris 39, Fleur d’ Orange 27 and Labdanum 18 (gel instead of the liquid version so you can throw them in your bag). You can layer a couple of them to create your own unique scent., Anthelios sunscreen, Anastasia Brow Gel in Clear, Mason Pearson Popular Mix hairbrush, Cle’ de Peau Beaute concealer in Ivory, Maybelline Color Sensational Lip Stain (makes your lips look like you just ate a cherry popsicle), Gypsy Water by Byredo Parfums, Marvis Jasmine Mint toothpaste, La Bella Donna Enriched Lash Enhancement, John Master Sea Mist (for back from the beach hair), Tarte Ten Natural Cheek Stain, Beauty is Life lipstick in Heavy Pink, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream (great for chapped lips), Clinique High Length mascara and the new fragrance Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle. Of course, the basics of drinking lots of water, getting enough sleep, exercise and wear sunscreen!

Angie's Closet. Photo by Paper City Dallas

Spring 2011 Haute Couture Coverage: Georges Chakra and Stephane Rolland

2011-01-25T18:10:00.008-05:00

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Georges Chakra

Georges Chakra's spring couture collection was in fact the very epitome of Haute Couture: wearable art. The collection was any magpie's dream, with sparkling embellishments sprayed allover dresses and a even a pair of skinny leggings. Flowers and feathers were also abundant, with the whole show maintaining a fantasy garden-party mood. Beginning with soft watercolours and pastels, the colour intensified as the show progressed and dresses became studded with little flower buds. Chakra found many ways to wrap the woman's body in fabric, making it resemble a flower. A few notable dresses in fact made the models appear as though blooming tulip buds. Quite impressively, the designer also managed to throw some new, less body conscious shapes into the collection. An absolute standout was the white strapless dress with gold twisted into it.

Stephane Rolland

For Spring 2011 Haute Couture, models were transformed into beautiful goddesses of the sand dunes in some earthly desert or maybe on another planet a la Princess Leah. Either way the collection was simple and liquid, using the flowing fabric to make the biggest statement. All lines were soft and embellishments were sparse, but came in the form of either double ringed metal belts or giant rocks. Shoulders were wide, but in a new way, and much of the collection had an almost architectural influence. A few dresses had armour-like metal additions, and one dress appeared to have a coffee stain on it. Rolland has successfully reconfirmed his importance with this collection: proving that he is moving fashion forward, and in the right direction.

Photos via Nowfashion.com

Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Spring 2011

2011-01-24T18:16:00.005-05:00

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Alexandre Vauthier never fails to make wonderful clothes, but this spring's Haute Couture collection was rather disappointing. Influenced by the days of old Hollywood glamour as well as perhaps the 70's, the lineup consisted of strong-shouldered and slinky jumpsuits and dresses, most of them nipped in at the waist with a metal belt a la last season Gucci. Most of it was less than original. Extreme backlessness and intriguing (and figure-flattering!) cut outs did add something new to the mix however. It did not help that some of the models were having impossible difficulty navigating the runway in pencil skirts and 100mm Louboutin stilettos either. Vauthier's redemption came in the form of the 3 truly Couture jewels in the collection -- specifically the dangerously low V-neck minidress that was literally dripping with embellishment.

Photos via Fashionnow.com

Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

2011-01-24T17:09:00.011-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

John Galliano touched on a very close subject to the House of Dior, for Spring 2011. This collection was inspired by fashion illustrator Rene Gruau's technique of drawing. Gruau's painterly hand was evident in the new Bar suits and balloon dinner dresses. The classic Dior silhouette was exaggerated and modernized with soft draping and abstract embroideries that where left to fade into the fabrics. The waist was severely nipped, and skirts jetted out with large crinolines. Most of the looks where created with bold, heavy fabrics which where layered with tulle to create a painted texture. The house presented it's collection at the Musée Rodin, to accommodate a larger audience of 800, showing that haute couture is still prevalent and relevant in today's world.

Photos via Style.com

Coming up: Haute Couture Spring 2011

2011-01-19T17:29:00.005-05:00

Photo, Atelier Givenchy Haute Couture

Monday, January 24, marks the first day of Haute Couture. This is the most ornate and opulent week of the season, where designers offer creations of experimentation and exquisite workmanship. Couturiers Christophe Josse and Gustavo Lins, join La Chambre syndicale de la haute couture, showing there haute couture collections as offical members this season. Many new comers will present collections off the official calender, such as Fabian Rozan , Laurence Andre, and Didit Hediprasetyo; although not official Haute couture, their work will carry the same integrity and process of traditional couture. There will also be the absents of couturier Dominique Sirop, who has not shown a collection for the past two seasons. The collections will close on January 27 with the showing of Haute Joaillerie, by jewelers Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie, Chaumet, Dior Joaillerie, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Master The Art of Style will cover the shows and events during Haute Couture Spring 2011.

Editor's choice: Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

2011-01-14T11:55:00.006-05:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Searching for a new perfume is a challenge that is often avoided, since we tend to stick to one scent. I recently had a craving for something new, but the thought of a over done fragrance that overpowers my essence is a scary thought. At last, I came across a new scent that captured my affections, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, by Hermes. I simply could not resist the mix of grapefruit, orange, rose, rhubofix, and vetiver. Its light, crisp, fresh scent is a beautiful harmony of notes that would complement any aura!

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, bottle with pump, 6.5 fl.oz, $165.00, at Hermes, NYC

Let's Celebrate

2010-12-30T10:39:00.004-05:00

2010 is coming to a close, and marks the one year Anniversary of Master the Art of Style. As Editor in Chief, I would like to thank my readers, my team: Christine Suppes (Editor at Large) and April Hall (Paris Correspondent) for their great work, Family and Friends for their support.

Happy New Year to every one!!!

xoxo-David

"High Art" photographed by Annie Leibovitz for Vogue, 2004. Gown By John Galliano for Christian Dior Haute Couture. Painting by Chuck Close.

Holiday Must Haves 2010

2010-11-18T17:50:00.012-05:00

The Holiday's are around the corner... weather your shopping now or just need some ideas, the editors at Master The Art of Style have put together a list of items we desire this season. These items are our must haves of the moment.....

Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
-Black voile Lesage crystal encrusted Chanel blouse with detachable voile shawl collar.

Chanel Top,Price Upon Request. Chanel , NYC.

-Anything from Aqua di Parma Iris Noblile fragrance line.

Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile Eau De Parfum Limited Edition/3.4 oz.,$165.00 at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC.

-Van Cleef and Arpel Turquoise Alhambra Long necklace and earrings.

18K YG with turquoise clover shapes outlined in gold,"Alhambra" line of Van Cleef & Arpels, Price Upon Request, Van Cleef & Arpels, NYC.

-Bring our young men and women home from the Middle East

David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

-Hermes Très Kelly Twilly

Twilly, $130.00 at Hermes, NYC

-A book filled with beautiful images of haute couture by designer Franck Sorbier

Franck Sorbier by Viviane Blassel & Franck Sorbier, $125.00 at Rizzoli, NYC.

-Anything vintage by Christian Lacroix Haute Couture

-Peace of mind and happiness to every one.....

Style Diary: The Muse, Christine Suppes

2010-10-26T17:55:00.012-04:00

Christine Suppes in Vivienne Westwood Couture, Photographed by Frederic Aranda

Founder of FashionLines.com/ Haute Couture Parton

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief
Christine Suppes is the innovator and pioneer to introduce the first editorial fashion E-magazine on the Internet. In 1999, Christine launched FashionLines.com, a site that reported fashion week coverage from all over the world, interviewed fashion's most interesting designers, and covered life style and cultural stories. The site closed in 2007, but made way for new fashion Internet editorials and inspired fashion bloggers abroad. Christine Suppes is not only a respected journalist (she is also our fellow Editor at large), but a great patron of the arts as well (she was the major patron of the Yves Saint Laurent retrosoective at the de Young Fine Arts Museum of San Fransisco in 2008, and will also be patron for the Balenciaga exhibition at the de Young in March 2011). Christine is also a celebrated Haute Couture collector and has been noted to support new talent, such as Rodarte when they first appeared on the fashion radar. This beautiful, inspiring and intriguing woman shares with us her unique personal style and why she loves haute couture....

DP: Has it been an easy or difficult to become one of society’s arbiters of fashion?
CS: Being a style arbiter was nothing I ever thought about. I realized early on when purchasing the clothes I loved that I would rather know more about each garment, and be able to write about it, than just to be known as a fashion consumer.

DP: Does your mood reflect what you wear?
CS: My mood is affected by what I wear. Rodarte brings out the California girl in me, Chanel brings serenity (correctness has its place!), Westwood brings joy, Lacroix Haute Couture brings majesty. And on and on….

DP: Who are your favorite designer(s)?
CS: Karl Lagerfeld of course, On Aura Tout Vu who are my dearest friends, Kate and Laura Mulleavy who I adore, and of course, Vivienne Westwood, that wonderful madcap genius.

DP: How did you gain this passion for collecting haute couture?
CS: By going to so many shows. I broke down one afternoon at a Lacroix show and started to cry because I wanted to look like the angel on the runway. I had already been buying dozens of on aura tout vu gowns and accessories, but they were still “invited members”, not flat out Haute Couture.

DP: What was your first HC purchase and did this purchase change the way you view clothes? The quality, shelf life, purpose of clothes….
CS: Again, it was the angelic Lacroix apricot organza coat with beige embroidered pearl lace and a matching dress. I have always taken care of my clothes, even when I wore GAP jeans. This time, with couture, I turned the lights off and covered the garments with “shrouds”. The purpose of clothes, after a certain level, means the wearer is taking responsibility for the look of a generation.

Striking a pose in Vivienne Westwood, photograph by Frederic Aranda

DP: Do you think your clothes well demonstrate your personality or who you are?
CS: They demonstrate something, but perhaps it’s too bold for me to say they demonstrate me.

DP: Are your accessories an extension of your ensembles, or do they stand out as their own objects?
CS: In the case of Chanel or Westwood, they belong as an ensemble. In the case of on aura tout vu, the accessories may stand alone because they are absolute works of cutting edge art.

DP: What are your favorite pieces in your closet?
CS: The latest thing I own…The pieces I love most are what I have recently acquired. There are exceptions, my Westwood corsets, my on aura tout vu accessories and their famous Map Coat from their second collection, and Lacroix’s goat hair and silver bell ethnic coat from his 2006 autumn collection.

DP: Do you believe being Editor in Chief of Fashionlines.com help your own personal style evolve by being exposed to more designers and their visions?
CS: Of course! Without question. At one point I was covering between 8-10 shows or related functions per day in Paris on my own. Experience like that matches no other.

DP: What would be your immediate reaction if you were sitting next to a woman wearing the exact dress as the one you where wearing?
CS: If I were wearing Haute Couture, I would find the directrice of the house and make a complaint. But prêt-a-porter is just that-----ready to wear. One can’t complain too much about what is more readily available. However, having said that, the prices of Chanel demi-couture are so high now that the saleswoman should bear in mind not to sell the same garment to frenemies or even friends in the same social group!

Extravagant in Vivienne Westwood Couture, which was custom made for Christine. Photograph by Frederic Aranda

The New Modernist: Chadwick Bell

2010-10-22T10:00:00.017-04:00

Source of Insperation for the Chadwick Bell Spring 2011 Collection. Photograph by Gigi Stoll

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief

During the Golden Age of Haute Couture, Madame Gres created a sensation with bias cut gowns and liquid, jersey dresses which resembled the ruined columns of Greece. The mastery of drape and manipulation of the bias grain, established her as a grand couturier and master dress maker. For spring 2011, Chadwick Bell, presented a collection that took on the key elements of Madame Gres; soft draped fabrics, beautifully cut bias, and an airiness in his clothes in which great dressmakers learn through an apprenticeship at an haute couture house.

I had the pleasure of being a guest at the Chadwick Bell Studio during the spring 2011 collections, in September. Bell’s collection titled, Camouflage, took on inspiration from a photographer who took photos of her journey in a desert. These photographs by Gigi Stoll, exposed the beautiful textures, rich colors, and elements of a desert along with the life style of those who inhabited the desert. Bell took these elements and transformed them into loose bias cut dresses, light cotton voile blouses and evening columns beautifully adorned with stacked paillettes made to look like crushed, wet, earth. On the runway, the collection was beautiful and very light, but the work up-close was impressive, the attention to detail did not disappoint. Bell’s tailoring techniques have developed during the years; he has achieved the ability to create soft jackets with impeccable tailoring techniques. Taupe, earthy-red clay hues, and Ash grays dominated the color palette, with a mixture of classic men’s suiting fabrics and an organic print in Navy with Egg shell white. Fabrics ranged from a pinstriped gabardine, silk georgette, flesh colored Lamb, and Mudsilk, a crisp, dense fabric which had a distressed, leather look, but soft and light to create an architectural caftan gown. Bell and Webster took me through the collection, and we discussed the virtues of each garment and their workmanship. Chadwick Bell produces ready-to-wear, which is sold at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, but the workmanship stands out, some pieces have been made with the same integrity as haute couture garments, which has created the brand a strong following, of modern elegant woman, many who are Haute Couture clients (One of his clients was a loyal customer at Christian Lacroix Haute Couture).

Studio Visit Photos: 1) Bias cut gown with layers of Chiffon to create a Moire effect. 2) Organic Print Dress. 3) "Mudsilk" Gown. 4) Mastered tailoring in a light men's suiting fabric. 5) The georgette gown shown at the end, with beading made to look like crushed, wet, earth.

Vanessa Webster, Bell’s managing director and business partner, recognized Bell’s unique eye and talent, and supported him to launch a label under his own name in 2007. Webster, who has a laid back elegance and charm, has expanded the company from a small made to order business to an established brand creating clothes for everyday lifestyle. Bell, created a vision of sophisticated, beautifully made clothes that have an intellectual approach with an artistic influence, which vary from contemporary art to grand masters of Haute Couture. Bell favors the work of legendary designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix and Gianfranco Ferre, whose architectural background is evident in Bell’s clothes. Chadwick bell’s vision continues on to jewelry and shoes; for spring 2011, the collection features beautiful abstract rosaries and gold chains that have a modern and rustic mood, along with hardy, stacked heel, luggage sandals made in collaboration with shoe designer, Nathalie Elharrar.

Chadwick Bell is on his way to becoming a great American Fashion House, with a more sophisticated view on fashion than most young designers, and establishing himself for the long run. Creating clothes that will outlive the seasonal shelf live, and will carry on to a new generation, perhaps he may even become one of our American masters.

Studio Visit Photos: 6) Perfect Bias Cut Day Dress. 7) Bias cut, pinstriped wool dress. 8) The great White Blouse. 9) Supple Lamb used to create a travel-friendly Dress. 10) Silk gold iridescent Matelasse dress with stacked paillettes embroidery.

Runway shots of the Spring 2011 Chadwick Bell Show, courtesy of WWD

Post Script: All clothes and accessories by Chadwick Bell Spring 2011. Chadwick Bell is available at Bergdorf Goodman, New York.

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2011: Elie Saab Pret-a-Porter

2010-10-13T11:33:00.007-04:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent
Elie Saab - Retro done right! Elie Saab's spring 2011 RTW collection was a wonderful example of how to take a decade, the 70's, and use it as inspiration, instead of simply remaking them. His glamorous presentation included short suits, kaftans, and platforms, gold jewellery and other highly recognizable 70's trends, yet remained appropriately modern. The dusty rose pink, dusty periwinkle, and print fabric containing both which he used seem very of the moment. In addition the big gold cuffs and necklaces were feminine and surprisingly delicate given their size, which glamed everything up but kept the feeling more Monte Carlo than Miami. There is no doubt that everyone from 18 to 80 will be wearing his designs come the warm spring weather!

photos via style.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2011: Return of Pierre Cardin

2010-09-30T10:18:00.009-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief
On Wednesday September 29, 2010, Pierre Cardin present an Haute Couture collection during Paris Prêt-a-Porter fashion Week. This is a first in 10 years for the designer known as the “King of Licenses”. He proclaimed to WWD on Wednesday, this collection was to be original and innovative, with the purpose of “showing that the brand still exists as a creative force” (WWD). Although, opinions vary, this collection was Cardin being Cardin, not too far from what he has always shown in Haute Couture for the past 60 years. This collection is not to be confused with Ready-to-Wear or his licenses; it is produced in his Atelier of 80 seamstresses, in Paris and created for a private clientele. Cardin noted, he has 100 or so loyal clients that still order up to 6 dresses. The collection showed a lot of existing designs in primary colors, but Cardin did manage to present some new beautiful cocktail and evening wear in black and pink; very pretty , easy to wear, modern haute couture. Some of his looks were generated for a younger woman, while others focused on his mature loyal customers. Cardin is trying to reach the younger generation, and has already dressed Lady Gaga to attract his new following. He will be in New York Next month, trying to expand, not only his license empire, but his Haute Couture.

Photos courtesy of WWD.com

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 2

2010-09-27T18:13:00.007-04:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

David Koma
Vauxhall Fashion Scout 2009 Merit winner David Koma presented ballet-inspired dresses, starting with very pale and delicate, almost tutu like, before adding bold stripes. My initial feeling is that these would be fun dresses to wear, and would make an entrance with a lot of impact. I’d like to see what Koma does with trousers and suits, because the ethereal collection is best suited to the evening---not that there is anything wrong with that! Accessories included knuckle dusters and bold cuffs of gold and hematite. Faux python was used as accents in belts and on the stripes of the chiffon or wool dresses. A true talent, it will be interesting to see how David Koma evolves.

Photos by Marcus Tondo, 2010

Holly Fulton
Miss Futon claims Joan Collins as her muse, which is forgivable in England, where the then young and very beautiful Miss Collins got her start. You must forget about Dynasty when viewing this collection. It is a kind of early sixties trip—again to the French Rivera—with swim suit ensembles and dresses with a lot of impact. No subtle looks here. Yellow Paten leather dresses lasered with martini glasses, along with Python, pony skin and raffia So much was going on in each garment that it was often had to focus. Miss Fulton claims the Memphis school as an inspiration. She is a winner of the awards at the British Fashion Awards in 2009, Elle New Designer 2010 and Scottish Young designer of the year in both 2009 and 2010.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 1

2010-09-23T18:13:00.011-04:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

Elliott J. Frieze SS11
Master the Art of Style did an interview with Welsh-born designer Elliott J. Frieze last spring and he told us that his new collection would be the equestrian/equestrienne and the influence of Oxford and Cambridge. True to his word, we saw a lot of men’s suits, often with shorts, with the equestrian theme embroidered on the back of jackets. There was a kind of retro look to the collection. It could have been Oxford or Cambridge, or it could have been the French Riviera. The women’s collection, particularly, took on this location, with little English touches like pale Windsor plaid sheaths and skirt and blouse combinations. The pale blue palette was breathtaking. There was a little bit of Audrey Hepburn here, all very serene and yes, marketable. This is a true London wardrobe. I could easily see the Mitford sisters or a very young Cary Grant in these clothes. Elliott Frieze is on his way up the 21 billion pound British fashion industry ladder.

Photos by Sabina Ventriglia of ESVIE.COM, 2010

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Vivienne Westwood defines British fashion with her Grecian tunics (relatively new for her), her shapely sheaths in elegant patterns or shimmering single colors, the perfectly cut pantsuits and the to die for accessories. Red Label is Miss Westwood’s most accessible line---she also does Gold Label which is shown in Paris and has private couture clients. This collection attracted its share of celebrities, ranging from Anna Wintour to Pamela Anderson, which had the paparazzi going crazy. A well cut suit, my favorite Westwood garment, can be found in Red Label, which also had the models going to the beach to work and perhaps night clubbing. Again, Miss Westwood is unmistakeably a British designer.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

The Art of Haute Couture: Maggie Norris

2010-09-01T16:23:00.029-04:00

Nelson Shanks painting of a woman wearing Maggie Norris Couture Corset and Gilan Earrings, in collaboration for Fashion's Night Out Event at Gilan, September 10, 2010.

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Exactly ten years ago, Maggie Norris, opened her atelier in New York City, and has become one of few American designers that have mastered the treasured Art of Haute Couture. Maggie Norris looks for beauty in nature, art, and in the true essence of the human soul to inspire her work. Her passion for art and beauty has captured her imagination; creating elegant, sumptuous gowns, coats and corsets for a life style that is surreal and romantic.

Maggie Norris Couture exhibition at The Plaza, with interiors by Aman & Carson

Maggie Norris Couture Jacket and Tulle Ball Skirt, all Prices Upon Request. Maggie Norris Couture, New York, (212) 239-3433

Growing up in Louisiana, Maggie Norris looked up to her impeccably dressed mother, who influenced her desire and passion for fashion. As a young girl, Maggie Norris knew she wanted to design clothes as a way to interpret the beautiful things she created in her mind. When she arrived to New York City, Norris attended Parsons School of Design and The Art Students League of New York. The Art Students League ignited a love and appreciation for the fine arts. The painterly effects, colors, and techniques from Northern Renaissance artists inspired her to design garments that have an artistic touch, using the finest craftsmanship and quality imaginable. She opened Maggie Norris Couture in 2000, after spending 13 years at the helm of Ralph Lauren Women’s wear and designing for Mondi in Europe. Maggie cherished and honored the art of Haute Couture, and undoubtedly established herself as a couturier, which is rare in America; there are very few designers in the United Sates that create haute couture. As a phoenix, Maggie Norris has created clothes to fit the times we live in, and always willing to cater to the changing life styles of women. Her Clients are women who want the best and the finest money can provide. Many of them have graced the covers of magazines and red carpets, such as Nicole Kidman, Alicia Keys, Naomi Watts, Diane Keaton, and most recently, The First Lady Michelle Obama. She has also dressed couture saint, Audrey Hepburn, an Icon Maggie still looks up to for inspiration. When a client comes to Maggie Norris Couture, it is a tranquil and calm experience. The designer and client, go over the virtues of each piece, she selects her design and begins the 2-3 month process that will bring a creation to life. Maggie works with the best artisans to make each piece, insuring the best fabrics and most impeccably couture techniques are used. She has also worked with the embroidery firm Lesage, to create one-of-a-kind embroideries and with Illustrator Anna Kiper to create paintings on silk (Anna Kiper also creates the illustrations for Maggie Norris). Maggie Norris has also introduced the Bespoke Shirting Collection, a service of Pret-a-porter shirts that can be altered or bought off the rack; some shirts feature boned, corset details or interchangeable cuffs.

Details of Nelson Shanks Painting of Maggie Norris Couture Corset and Gilan Earrings

Since Art is a huge influence and touches every aspect of Maggie Norris Couture, Maggie has collaborated with many artist such as Nelson Shanks (Shanks has painted the portrait of H.R.H. Diana, Princess of Wales), Fashion Illustrator Audrey Schilt, Photographer Annie Leibovitz captured Nicole Kidman in Maggie Norris For a Vanity Fair cover, and Photographer Mark Seliger, created the memorable image of Hollywood Starlet Naomi Watts wearing a Maggie Norris corset with a sultry disposition. Maggie’s collaborations have also included exhibitions with The Plaza Hotel, with interiors by Aman & Carson, and a fashion presentation with fine Jeweler Vendura, presenting “The Art of Bespoke Craftsmanship” showcasing Maggie Norris Couture with Vendura jewelry. This month, for the much anticipated Fashion’s Night Out, Maggie Norris and fine jeweler Gilan, to “Celebrate The Art of Haute Couture and Fine Jewelry”, through the interpretation of painting and Illustrations. Artist Nelson Shanks has created a painting of a beautiful woman wearing a Maggie Norris Haute Couture embroidered corset and Gilan tear-drop, ruby and diamond earrings, evoking the same charm and beauty as Vermeer’s “Girl with the Pearl Earrings”. Along with the paintings will be illustrations by Anna Kiper, and informal modeling of elegant, Maggie Norris Couture looks, styled by Wilson McCord.

Alicia Keys in Maggie Norris Couture Ball skirt and Corset

Top Left, Vanity Fair Cover with Nicole Kidman wearing Maggie Norris Couture, by Annie Leibovitz. Top Right, Mark Seliger's photograph of Naomi Watts in Maggie Norris Couture for Vanity Fair.

President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama taking a walk on The White House Law. First Lady Michelle Obama is wearing Maggie Norris Couture.

Illustration of First Lady Michelle Obama in Maggie Norris Couture, by Audrey Schilt

Maggie Norris’s clothes have an Old World, Romantic attitude with a modern and cool image, creating Napoleon inspired duchess satin Calvary coats, Lesage beaded flapper dresses, to regal ball gowns, and opulent, corsets with Fabergé inspired embroidery. Maggie Norris continues to create clothes that are ever-lasting and endure the changes of time. Her work is not only beautiful, but touches your mind, taking you to another world, a beautiful world.

Post Script: Maggie Norris and Gilan will present “Celebrate The Art of Haute Couture and Fine Jewelry”, September 10, 2010, for Fashions Night Out, at Gilan, 743 Fifth Avenue.

Maggie Norris Couture is available by special order only, all prices upon request. To make an appointment call (212) 239-3433.

Illustration by Anna Kiper

All Photos Courtesy of Maggie Norris Couture

Lanvin Sets Up Shop in New York

2010-07-28T17:41:00.003-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Lanvin has finally opened a shop in New York City, on the Upper East Side to be exact! A generous, 6,000 square foot, five-floor shop with 30 foot ceilings filled with beautiful clothes, shoes, bags, nick-nack and things....makes one feel like a child in a candy store. The store is minimal, elegant, yet intimate and features every thing from ready-to-wear to bridal. The natural lighting and its two colors, black and white, set an ideal background for the store, while letting the clothes stand out. The bridal salon has a homey feeling, as if you were in your own private dressing room!

Post Script: Visit Lanvin New York at 815 Madison Avenue, between 68th & 69th St, New York City

Photo, Lanvin 2010

LINstallation in Paris

2010-07-21T11:18:00.003-04:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent

The summer heat at the gardens in the Palais Royale made LINstallation feel all the more appropriate, as many of the guests had arrived wearing just that -- linen. The name itself is a play on words, explaining what exactly LINstallation is. It is an exhibit that focuses on the qualities of fine linen. An impressive line up of top-name designers such as Stephane Rolland and Lefranc Ferrant created special pieces entirely from linen for the installation, showcasing its versatility as a material. Notable works included a waterproof jumpsuit by Jean-Paul Knott, a gorgeous trench coat with underskirt and a cinched waist, and a giant stuffed-animal-garden-ornament-cross face by the always humorous On Aura Tout Vu. All of these were situated in the miniature linen field that had been created for the event, with the pieces being displayed on posts resembling scarecrows.

Jean-Paul Knott Trench Dress
Post Script: it was impossible not to notice that red was the popular colour of choice for women's shoes for the evening.

All Photos by April Hall, 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: On Aura Tout Vu

2010-07-13T12:31:00.007-04:00

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

On Aura Tout Vu's show, which was held under a canopy of trees in the Palais Royal, was called "Fishing for Compliments", and all manner of otherworldly underwater creatures floated down the runway. The black and white "fish scale" sheath was a standout as was the amethyst suit with long, fin-like sleeves and the adorable pancake tutu cocktail ensemble. Not surprisingly, Lady GaGa's stylist has discovered on aura tout vu and she has appeared in their creations. on aura tout vu may not be French (they are in fact Bulgarian) but they should be designated national treasures for the many French collections they saved at the 24th hour with their finesse and know how, before they wisely decided to concentrate on their own work. This was their strongest collection in several seasons.

Photos, On Aura Tout Vu Fall 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Chanel

2010-07-12T12:28:00.011-04:00

By Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

The giant gold lion in the middle of of the Grand Palais was jaw dropping. Allegedly, Coco Chanel, a Leo, used this astrological theme in her collections nearly as much as she used the camellia, pearls and four leaf clovers. Unfortunately, we did not hear the lion's roar in this collection. Lesage should never be taken for granted, but this gorgeous work even appeared on street length dresses and matching boots. Who really wants to look like that these days? And even if one had all the money in the world, who can really afford to appear in this over-the-top way? The slim street length silhouette with a self bolero was striking and very modern. Three quarter sleeves appeared on several dresses and even fur coats. On the other hand, very few long gowns were shown. When the groom in a lion's head came out with the bride (in a short dress), many of us were hoping it was Lagerfeld. Alas, it was not. It was model Baptiste Giabiconi, the super handsome male muse of Mr. Lagerfeld. In the audience, Karl faithful Daphne Guinness showed us she was still trying, with a quasi Lady GaGa pompadour, yards of silver sequins and shoes that looked unwearable. The ultimate roar was perhaps Mr. Lagerfeld doing away with long gowns, at least for now. With the way things are going in the world, this might be a good sign in case we need to run for our lives!

Photos by Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Basil Soda

2010-07-12T11:25:00.004-04:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent
Sleek, black gravel covering the runway, French celebrities, and other notable global personalities, some with PA`s fanning them the whole time, set the perfect ambiance for the glamorous runway to red carpet to society gala collection that was Basil Soda`s for fall/winter 2010/2011. Perhaps aimed at the slightly younger crowd, the jewel blues and fuschias as well as whites and neutrals were all accented with gold, usually in the form of zippers. The entire presentation was a magpie's dream, with shimmer and shine and all out glamour in every ensemble. Soda's talent for draping and accentuating the woman's body was used this season to create an awesome feminine rocker chic. Lace, reptile skins, and superfluous zippers gave the beautiful silhouettes a decidedly more aggressive, rocker styling. On the few ensembles lacking these elements however, the result is a beautiful, figure-enhancing gown. The ultimate rocker evening booties worn by the models are a must have as well.

Photos, Basil Soda Fall 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Givenchy

2010-07-10T18:56:00.006-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief

Riccardo Tisci demonstrated his devotion to the craft of Haute Couture with his latest couture collection for the house of Givenchy, with a new found identiy due to Tisci's experiments and attempts throught the past few years. The House declared to stop runway presentations for couture, in favor of private viewings of the colletion, presenting only 10 exceptional works of art. Each piece, with a concetration in evening wear, was an great execution of haute couture by Givenchy's Atelier. Gowns of lace covered in fine beading, requiring up to 1,600 hours of hand work by techniqualy skilled hands. One catsuit was decorated with a Swarovski crystal skeleton, and a dress in Chantilly lace was appliquéd in leather duplicating a lace pattern with cascade of dégradé ostrich feathers. Riccardo Tisici proved there is a strong demand in haute couture, especialy in the rare and the beautiful.

Photos of Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2010 (Via: givenchy, fashiongonerogue)

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Alexis Mabille

2010-07-10T18:24:00.007-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief

Alexis Mabille has presented his first outing of Haute Couture, without the presences of ready-to-wear, which in the past he has presented in one collection. For Fall 2010, Mabille wanted to maintain a ready-to-wear sensibility by making his collection of mix and match pieces; Each piece can easily be worn with the next one. The silhouettes were simple and reflected a ready-to-wear accessibility, but the workmanship was Haute Couture at its best. Mabille put his workmanship in the spot light, especially with a few stand out pieces such as a black velvet dress, hand-embroidered and beaded by the Atelier Cecile Henri. Presenting only 12 exquisite, precious pieces, which can be ordered with less elaborate ornamentation for the couture client with a smaller budget. Alexis Mabille not only presented a beautiful collection, but a smart one for a new and modern world.

Photos Courtesy of Alexis Mabille

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Dior Couture

2010-07-06T10:18:00.006-04:00

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

John Galliano has gone full bloom at Dior, for Fall. Taking inspiration from the garden of Eden, and the study of botany, to sculpt fabric into precious flowers. The models looked like they stepped out of a Norman Parkinson photograph, and into a botanical garden. The textures and form of each garment showed the master and technical skills of the Dior Atelier. Galliano never fails to use the full potential of the tailors and dress makers at Dior, challenging them every season to create new silhouettes. Although Galliano did not leave his theatrics, the clothes where wearable and can easily be worn to cocktails. The proof will come in the orders the House of Dior receives.

Post Script: Master the Art of Style will have full coverage on the Paris Couture collections, July 5-July 9.

Photos by Gianni Pucci for GoRunway.com

Givenchy Haute Couture, By Appointment Only!

2010-06-21T13:35:00.005-04:00

Givenchy Haute Couture Show room, Givenchy 2008

Givenchy will start by-appointment only service for clients and editors on July 6, 2010 to view the Haute Couture Collection.
According to WWD, this change is not the Houses way of saving money. In fact the change would cost them about 35 percent more than staying with runway presentations. Tisci wants to make haute couture special again and go back to the House's roots. He will be created 10, unique ensembles, putting his concentration on evening wear and embroidery.

The 10 looks will be displayed on live models (like Lara Stone and Mariacarla Boscono) and mannequins for clients at Givenchy’s couture salons on Paris’s Avenue George V, which will undergo renovations. Givenchy also plans to add couture jewelry, but they didn’t say when haute jewelry will be launched. “After a crisis, a new era always starts,” [Tisci] added. “It’s going to be a very good moment for creativity. For couture, it’s going to go back to being very exclusive.” (WWD) Haute Couture has stopped being a market strategy, and has in fact become about selling and making beautiful clothes. -David Pedroza

Post Script: July 5, 2010 is the start of the Fall 2010 Haute Couture collections, Master the Art of Style will be covering the collections.

Hidden Jewel of Paris: On Aura Tout Vu Haute Couture

2010-06-09T17:10:00.008-04:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondant
A small storefront hidden on a narrow street behind the Palais Royale, the On Aura Tout Vu atelier is easy to find only because there are two people smoking in front of it. I am welcomed inside and offered a seat in the alabaster-coloured showroom, from where I can see racks of dresses packed in plastic, and millions of bejewelled…everything. From perfume bottles to headphones to a curious electronic rabbit called la bastague, OATV has put their couture touch on just about everything.

AH: I understand that you just returned from Georgia Fashion Week (the sovereign Republic of Georgia). How was that?
OATV: It was very busy, but it was interesting! It was the first Georgia Fashion Week, so we had to see everything. We were one of two French houses who showed, and we ended up going to 30 presentations. We are so tired! Our flight left at 4 am this morning, so excuse me while I go pour some coffee…

Livia and Yassen of On Aura Tout Vu, in their Paris Atelier, Photo by April Hall

AH: Describe the OATV woman.
OATV: Any woman with a strong personality; someone who wants something unique and doesn’t care about the label. She doesn’t care that it’s not Dior or YSL, she just wants a special piece she can wear.
AH: Do you have a definitive client base? Is there a certain lifestyle or client you design for?
OATV: We are never thinking of selling any piece. We just design what we want, and if a client want to change a detail such as embroidery, print, or color, we will do that for them. We know designers who think, “ oh I must design to sell”, and they cannot change to please the client. They become commercial and keep designing what they believe will sell. We like to keep our artistic vision intact.
AH: Is there any specific person or place that serves as a constant muse for your work?
OATV: No, just everything. Each person, the cinema, music, a strong personality – all of it can be inspiring. The street, travel, even coffee…or [hot] chocolate at Angelina*!
AH: Do you have favourite materials that you work with?
OATV (Livia): I love crystal, and lace, and chinchilla. I also love mink; there is this special cut we did once where we used only the longest part of the fur. It was so soft you couldn't believe it.
OATV (Yassen): All. It depends on what we are doing and what kind of mood I’m in.

Embroidered Jumpsuit by On Aura Tout Vu, Spring 2010 Haute Couture
AH: Is there a favourite piece that you have designed?
OATV (Livia): We made wood lace once. It was literally lace made from wood, and from a distance you couldn’t understand that it was wood.
AH: Where are those pieces now?
OATV: There is a museum of lace in Calais, France, one of the dresses is there.
OATV (Yassen): Maybe one of my favourite’s was our first show. We used globes of the world and it was about how the world should go global. We were thinking about the “Globetrotters” and how the world is big and small at the same time.
AH: Most of your work is really unexpected. In your opinion, what is the most surprising idea you have had?
OATV: One time we had a fashion show with balloons. There were balloons everywhere, we filled the entire room with 13,000 balloons. We had it so that when the girls [models] would take something off, the balloons would raise it up. The girl would take off a jacket and it would float up to the ceiling.
AH: How has the experience been of collaborating with some big names in style and electronics?
OATV: It has been very fun. I enjoyed our collaboration with Swatch, and we made a dress entirely covered in watches. Each watch was set on a different time zone of the world. It was very time-consuming, but quite fun.
AH: How long does something, like a Swatch dress, take to produce?
OATV: If we have a deadline, it takes two people about one week to do. All of our embroidery is hand done – it takes a very long time.

Detail of Lace and Chiffon beaded dress, Spring 2010 Haute Couture

AH: I hear that you worked on a car once? How did you do that?
OATV: It was a joint project with Lalique. It was a jewellery Smart car; we covered it with Lalique crystals on the metal and made the inside lace and crystal as well. It was auctioned for charity at Christie’s in London and someone from Monaco bought it. We talked to their driver once and he said that whenever they drive it in the street, everyone stops and stares.
AH: Is there any specific person you would love to dress or accessorize one day?
OATV: Honestly, it’s not about the person. When we see a woman with a big personality we want to dress her. Already we have dressed princesses and important people, but it doesn’t matter. If we don’t have a good feeling, then we won’t dress her.
AH: Any hints as to ideas you are working on right now?
OATV: Well, we might go to Mexico, and we’re thinking about a new perfume project. Also, we will send a letter to Tim Burton. We feel that OATV and Tim Burton seems already a good match, so we are very interested in working with him.

Necklace by On Aura Tout Vu, photo by April Hall

On Aura Tout Vu is based in Paris and available in boutiques and fine retailers around the world. For information, visit their website http://www.onauratoutvu.com/.

Post Script: Angelina is a French restaurant that is renowned for its signature thick and rich Chocolat a l’Ancienne hot chocolate.

Tea in London with Elliott J.Frieze

2010-05-24T15:39:00.011-04:00

Photo of Elliott J. Frieze by Photographer Frederic Aranda

By Christine Suppes, Editor-at-large

Thirty year old, Welsh-born, Elliott Frieze has a pure, almost angelic quality in his face and voice. He loves to work in his atelier in Wales in the morning. “There are too many distractions in London,” he says, “much as I love it.” Elliott’s first season in London was this past February 2010. He designs for men and women, though his university degree was in history, politics and economics. “My father always told me it was always good to have a good degree behind you.” After studies in England, Paris and Berlin, Elliott’s good looks won him modeling contracts with Seeds Model Management in Berlin. He ended up at University College in London where he got his degree in 2002. As his first language is Welsh, early jobs included participation in television documentaries in Wales.

Enter his first fashion muse, Michiko Koshino, from the Japanese fashion industry. The two moved together to Notting Hill, where Elliott says Michiko taught him “how to work hard and make it work for you.”

“I wake up in the morning, I design, I think, I cut and I sew,” he says. “My work is quintessentially British with a slim, tailored silhouette. When it comes to cutting, you can draw it on. That’s Saville Row tailoring and (the late) Alexander McQueen’s technique.”

“I design with a wardrobe in mind—everything British.” Both Elliott’s sisters are equestrians, “so last season was equestrian.” He began his business under the name Kasimi with partner Prince Khalid bin Sultan of Sharjah after the two met in University College London.

Anna Popperwell, a good friend of seven years, who played Susan in Narnia and was in the picture The Girl with the Pearl Earring as well as Prince Caspian is another muse. “This season will have the Oxford-Cambridge influence. Tennis, society, especially political societies reflecting David Cameron and Boris Johnson, dressed in a certain English way. ”

Elliott is known for working with top models such as Erin O’Conner, Lily Cole, Yasmin and Amber Le Bon, Jaquetta Wheeler and Carmen Dell Orefice, in other words, women of all ages. “Fabrics for men and women are the same, but the cuts are different. My women’s collection is not overtly feminine but I always include draping. I always start by designing menswear and then interpreting into the women’s wear collection” “I want Elliott J. Frieze to be a life-style brand. I’d love to have boutique hotels. I admire Paul Smith and would love to someday create the same aura in my own stores.”

Elliott J. Frieze has set high standards for himself, and appears to love every minute of the business. A breath of fresh air, I thought, as we said good-bye, just what this sometimes jaded industry needs.

All Runway photos Courtesy of Elliott J. Frieze, 2010

Yves Saint Larurent Paris Retrospective

2010-05-17T18:16:00.004-04:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent

After stops in Montréal and San Francisco, the retrospective exhibition of one of the most important designers in fashion history has arrived at the Petit Palais in Paris -- a wonderful location for a wonderful exhibit! Rooms filled with gorgeous, ground-breaking ensembles follow Yves Saint Laurent's phases, from his time at the house of Christian Dior until his final collection in 2002, enchanting the viewers with luxurious furs, laces, chiffon, beading, and sequins, virtually all of which are exquisitely timeless. The exhibit pays due homage to a man who truly innovated fashion, giving the world the jumpsuit, transparent dressing, and of course "le smoking". The exhibit shows how even some of the hottest trends of the moment, for example safarienne and camouflage, were imagined by St Laurent in the 1960's. An emphasis is also placed on the designers themed collections, which range from African beading and ankle accessories to long draped Russian looks. Toward the end, the retrospective takes on a sombre tone, an imperative nod to the great loss of the fashion world that was the passing of Yves St Laurent.

The exhibit also revisits the question of the future of Haute Couture. As geniuses such as St Laurent retire, and celebrities and society women ever distance themselves from superfluous and luxuriously high fashion, one must ask: are the days of Haute Couture gone? Will this centuries-old art form continue in coming years? Who will design it and who will wear it?

Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Spring 2002, Photos by Style.com

American Master: Kim Hicks Couture

2010-05-06T11:46:00.009-04:00

Embroidered satin gown, by special order, Kim Hicks Couture. Photo Courtesy of Kim Hicks New York.

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
In the United States there are very few designers that have mastered the Parisian art of Haute Couture. Though this craft is respectively French, and acknowledged by the Chambre Syndicale if a couturier maintains an atelier in Paris that creates hand-made, made-to-measure luxuries, there have been couturiers in the US, New York to be exact. We have legends such as Mainbocher, who held ateliers in Paris and New York during the 1930’s-1940. Arnold Scaasi, who would be considered by many as a court designer to the wives of American politicians. And master of cut and modern American Elegance, Geoffrey Beene.

There is a contemporary designer, who has quietly developed her craft and built a following of ladies who are always in search of unique and beautiful design. Her name is Kim Hicks, a Michigan native, who has established a couture business in the Tribeca district of New York City. Kim is a true couturier at heart; her style is American sensibility with old world elegance, with a touch of avant garde flair (her favorite designer is Alexander McQueen and she loves the work of Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga). For the past 10 years Kim Hicks has been catering to New York society with made-to-measure designs through Bergdorf Goodman.

" Four leaf Clover" Gown, price upon request, Kim Hicks Couture. Photo courtesy of Kim Hicks New York

One cool and rainy Saturday morning, I was warmly greeted by Kim at her Tribeca Studio. She is a beautiful, casual, and down to earth woman with a passion to create clothes that surpass the seasonal trends. It was like going to a candy store when I entered her atelier, rack after rack, of beautiful, colorful, gowns and cocktail dresses. We went straight into talking about her views in fashion and how she was trained (in the old-school fashion) the art of Haute Couture. Kim Hicks attended the School of Parsons, and landed a job at Arnold Scaasi, one of the great, few, Americans who also studied haute couture. Kim was taught this craft, like most young couturiers would in Paris. When it was time for her to venture on her own, she braved the fashion world the only way she knew, through designing made-to-measure couture. Kim has a Love for textiles that exceed quality and beauty of any standard, and works with textile mills such as, Abraham, Taroni, and Gandini, the same textile mills that provided fabrics to master couturiers Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent.

All the bead work is done by hand and everything is finished by hand on a Kim Hicks dress. According to her clients, she has created gowns with the most comfortable inner corsets that move with the body, without compromising support. Kim always works very close with her clients, developing designs and silhouettes that are flattering to each individual woman. Gina Sanders and Alexandra Lebenthal are two loyal clients that have turned to Kim for red carpet and gala gowns. Recently, Gina Sanders wore one of Kim’s gowns to the American Woman Gala, for the opening of the Costume Institute’s new exhibition on American women and style. These women are very busy and know that they do not have to take a trans-Atlantic trips to Paris, to buy couture, they have the best right at their door steps. Kim Hicks does have the intention of expanding her business overseas, London to be exact. She has clients in London, and many women in Paris love her work as well, which she has also taken her collection to Paris for a trunk show.

Gina Sanders in Kim Hicks Couture at the Met's American Woman Gala, Courtesy of Style.com

Alexandra Lebenthal in Kim Hicks Couture, photo by Manhattan Society.com

As she took me through the racks of beaded confections, Kim explained to me her design process; she studies historical costume, whether it is a military Cossack from Russia, a dress worn by the Gibson Girls, or a flapper dress worn to do The Charleston. Some of her influences come from another great couturier, Charles James, which she has re-created a modern version (more wearable as well) of his “Four-leaf Clover” gown. Kim Hicks is also a wonderful illustrator, many of her clients have pointed out that she is one of few designers, whose gowns actually look like her sketches. She has a strong ability to create what is on paper, to look as what she envisioned. As I left her studio, I was thinking what a joy it was to talk to Kim Hicks, and to see her work. She is a rare breed of American designers that care more about making beautiful clothes, than having a huge margin. She has proven that there are some American designers that are still making beautiful clothes.

Illustration By Kim Hicks, Courtesy of Kim Hicks New York

Post Script: Kim Hicks New York is available by special order at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. A trunk show of Kim Hicks Couture will be held at Bergdorf Goodman, Monday May 10th and Tuesday May 11th, 2010.

Worth Paris Haute Couture: Couture Lingerie

2010-04-27T18:35:00.005-04:00

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The Old French House of Worth has been revived! The father of Haute Couture, Charles Frederick Worth, established his house in 1858, making it the first true establishment of Haute Couture. The house of Worth has quietly been making couture lingerie for the past eight years, but showed a small collection of 8 during this past couture season. The collection designed by Italian designer Giovanni Bedin, features lingerie that is worthy to be worn in the chambers of Versailles. Just eight pieces, of true decadent luxury, reflecting the House’s history. Corseted bodices, tiny waists, large sleeves, antique lace and delicate embroideries, each piece requiring 50 to 300 hours of hand work. These pieces are works of art, meant to be worn out of the bedroom.

Photos Courtesy of Worth Paris, 2010

An Afternoon With Rodarte

2010-04-20T14:28:00.007-04:00

Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte, Photograph by Autumn de Wilde

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
April 15, 2010

In the light-filled studio on Olympic Boulevard in downtown Los Angeles, stillness prevails. Ethereal gowns of floral print chiffon or white tulle pastiche hang ever so gently on racks. Delicate sweaters and skirts are neatly displayed on a long table. Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the brilliant Rodarte team, are quietly controlling the atmosphere, where assistants steadily and silently see to their work, whether answering phones or sewing. Kate and Laura and never without their cell phones, which ring constantly. They speak in calm and confident voices, always softly, always swiftly. I have known the girls for many years and I can see that this collection is special—more so than most because Kate and Laura have really opened up and shown us their inner world, both tribal and couture.

They have just completed the costumes for Natalie Portman’s latest picture ‘The Black Swan” to be released this December. It was hard work, the girls relate, but Natalie wanted Rodarte and no one else. Who can blame her? A picture about a ballerina---what ballerina would not want to wear Rodarte? The girls designed the “pancake” tutus as well as the ballet gowns. And Natalie asked them to design the evening gown she wears in a pivotal scene.

Designing for Hollywood and their New York collection have taken every moment Kate and Laura have. Yet we step out for lunch at their favorite local spot, Bottega Louie, undeniably chic, and undeniably a Rodarte kind of place. Over homemade pizza, fried porcini mushrooms, and fresh raspberries, Kate and Laura can relax for a moment, cell phones still very much in hand. “What will we do for our next collection?” Both shrug as if to say too soon to ask. Who knows, I think as I wave good-bye to my two favorite American designers. They have their CFDA for best women’s wear 2009. Now, how about an Academy Award for best costume design next year? I put nothing past Kate and Laura Mulleavy. They have forgotten more than most designers have ever remembered. Now that is genius.

Runway Images by Marcio Madeira

Getting to Know Ken Downing

2010-04-11T11:15:00.006-04:00

At an intimate dinner, Editor at Large, Christine Suppes, asks influential Fashion Director of Neiman Marcus, Ken Downing, five questions, revealing things we never new about this style maker.

What would you be doing if you weren't in fashion?

KD: I'd be an actor. I am in a way, anyway.

What do you tell your colleagues when you don't like a collection?

KD: I tell them I've seen it with my own eyes.

Do you lie?

KD: In fashion , we never lie. We only exaggerate.

What's your favorite swear word?

KD: Malarkey. It's so retro and not too offensive, but says what I'm trying to convey.

What do you plan to do after you retire from fashion?

KD: Go to some fabulous place and never see another fashion show.

Spring essentials: Our Must Haves for Spring 2010

2010-04-06T18:21:00.016-04:00

Spring has finally arrived and it’s time to store away those J. Mendel Furs and the Chanel satin, black puffers with white ruffled collars. We at Master the Art of Style have edited our spring shopping list, to a few essential items that we can’t live without this spring…..

David Pedroza’s Picks…..
Haute Couture always chose the best that fashion has to offer! One of my favorite looks from Givenchy Spring 2010 Haute Couture, a chiffon, pin-tucked jacket, but in Black of course. The attention to detail and workmanship makes this a piece of art!

Chiffon pin-tucked jacket, Givenchy Haute Couture, price upon request. By special order, Tel# 33-1-44-31-50-00. Photo by Style.com

Kiehl’s Drawing Paste- I have used it for the past year and can’t go without it. This paste is full of zinc and other vitamins, maintaining the integrity of our skin. Best when used at night

Kiehl's Drawing Paste $17.00, at Bergdorf Goodman NYC

Alexis Mabille Satin, bi-color, bow tie. Fun and cheerful for evening.

Navy and Black satin bow tie, $245, at Couturelab.com, photo by Couture Lab

Christine Suppes’s Picks…..
This black and white graphic suit from Chanel Spring/Summer 2010 was the standout for me of the daytime collection. It reminds me a bit of Geoffrey Beene, but with all the wonderful Lesage touches.

Chanel tweed suit, price upon request, at Chanel NYC, photo by Style.com

iPAD-The latest fashion accessory for the web obsessed. Like all great fashion, it will transform the way we work with computers

iPAD by Apple,$499 Photo by RUTUERS

A must read- Secrets of Longevity: Hundreds of ways to live to 100 by Dr. Maoshing Ni, this will change your life!

$19.99Amazon.com

April Hall’s Picks……
Jumpsuits - They're finally in this season, and they come in just about any color, fabric, and length. I love them for day and night, casual and elegant. This season's safari and utilitarian versions in neutrals and khaki will make great comfortable day looks, but the truly fashion-forward crowd might want to try something daring...like prints.

DVF Jersey Jumpsuit, $500 at netaporter.com

Diane von Furstenberg hand-woven bracelets - Handmade by Zulu artisans in South Africa from re-used telephone wire, these bangles encompass both style and function. They add color to a breezy summer look while supporting women in developing countries. I hope to see a lot more of this in coming seasons.

Bangles, Diane von Furstenberg, $40 each, call 646-486-4800, photo by Style.com

Arctic Chill: Chanel Autumn/Winter 2010/11

2010-03-13T16:10:00.007-05:00

By Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

Fake fur gives me the creeps. To be balanced, so does all but vintage “real stuff”. And fake fur was the gist of Karl Lagerfeld’s prêt-a-porter show at the Grand Palais. I knew we were in for some arctic chill when I had to drape a huge cashmere shawl over my Lesage embroidered frock---global warming I believe it is called, when Paris turns into Siberia in March. So Mr. Lagerfeld was already one up on us--the cover of the Chanel invitation was a Lagerfeld rendition of a polar bear, and the stage set was an arctic scene, complete with melting ice caps and two inches of water. This was the water in which the models jauntily walked, dragging their knee high fake fur boots, fake fur leggings (!) and seventies style fake fur pimp coats. The medium is the message, and Mr. Lagerfeld massages that message very well. He sneaked in several gorgeous embroidered couture looking dresses with matching coats and jackets. The white collection was particularly refined and chic. The swing coats were a delight. But it was the fake fur we will remember, and the models slogging around in the water. We’ll be seeing the look in Aspen no doubt, if Madoff has not wiped out all the fashionistas. Who else will spend five digit figures on caveman clothes?

Post script: I saw more than one buyer go labile after the show. Like a gorgeous party, the afterglow was a serious case of nerves. Will the clients be willing to fork over thousands of dollars for fake fur, even if Mr. Lagerfeld refers to it as “the chicest fake fur”? My crystal ball says probably.

Photos by Monica Feudi, 2010

From Paris with Love: Paris Fashion Week Coverage

2010-03-13T15:31:00.004-05:00

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent

Tara Jarmon -
For fall, Tara Jarmon describes three bourgeoisie Parisienne identities which inspired the collection of updated classics: La Belle du Jour, Lady Chatterly, and Neuilly-Auteuil-Passy. With such muses, it is hardly surprising that the clothes included tweed and fur with school girl skirts and knee highs, and a pair of suede shorts. Each piece was beautifully crafted, albeit infringing on the territory of Ralph Lauren. In a small corner of the showroom, however, was rack of LBD's with feathers, ruching and much more promise.

Leonard Paris -
As one would expect, the Leonard runway was occupied this season by countless floral jersey dresses. The major difference for fall being that they were paired with thigh high suede boots. The same floral jersey was used for impossibly comfortable looking pairs of harem pants, and dresses were given some structure with shape-defining belts. If anything was innovative about this collection it was the new, metallic fabrics used to make the same dresses - especially its most standout striped dress.

Photo Courtesy of IMAXtree.com and Matteo Volta

Andrew Gn -
Once again, Andrew Gn's Ready-To-Wear collection proved to be just that -- ready to wear. The show featured plenty of feminine draping and ruching, with hints of military, and some older-style French ruffles and belt buckles. He kept strongly silhouetted jackets and short dresses modern with leather trim and cutouts. There was certainly no lack of signature embroidery either, and Gn displayed his mastery of the art of pairing the short dress with a great blazer or little fur jacket for fresh and flawless evening look.

Photo by Marcio Madeira, 2010

John Galliano Autumn/Winter 2010/11

2010-03-12T18:20:00.005-05:00

By Christine Suppes
Editor at Large

When the best in a fashion show is saved for last, and the last meaning the appearance of the designer, this sometimes indicates a problem. The point is, we’re used to it by now and some of us are loving it. Galliano’s palette was somber—a lot of gray and beige, with over sized hats suited to Johnny Depp’s Mad Hatter. The clothes are a crazy quilt of Victorian and psychedelic-- in other words, the hippie period in which Mr. Galliano was a child. Love them or hate them—I love them. The special effects were reserved until the end, when Mr. Galliano, swathed in even more fabric than his models, appeared on the silver sparkled runway, a buccaneer amidst fireworks and flames.

Post script: This show beats the daylights out of any Dior runway for the truly adventurous fashionista.

Photos by Marcio Madeira, 2010

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2010-2011

2010-03-12T15:37:00.008-05:00

By April Hall, Paris Correspondent

Marithe & Francois Girbaud -
As spectators sat in a freezing cold warehouse, it was a welcome sight to witness models strut by in a fall/winter collection that actually looked warm. The first part of the show was featured both clever androgyny and ambiguity: menswear looks were worn by both men and women, and it was impossible to tell if some outfits were one or 2 or more pieces. The second portion involved coats resembling sleeping bags with hoods and large lapels. The designers also managed to put drawstrings in everything from boots to skirts to leather jackets, which is indicative of the overall fun ingenuity of the show.

Photo Courtesy of IMAXtree.com and Matteo Volta, 2010

Chapurin -
Through his recent fashion show, Igor Chapurin single-handily has assured all earth tone loving fashionistas that brown is in! Models sported thigh high legwarmers that matched luxurious sweaters in rich browns and blacks, while simple waist belts kept the silhouette svelte. Chapurin also played with colour, adding purple and teal to some of his looks. Leather pieces, such as cuffed shorts, added another dimension of not only style but warmth in this impressively cohesive collection.

Photo Courtesy of IMAXtree.com and Matteo Volta, 2010

Junko Shimada -
Colour colour colour! Just because it was a fall/winter collection did not mean the design duo behind Junko Shimada could not use colour. Red and magenta, and even neon yellow, shared the catwalk with polka dots and hearts to create a bright feeling for the winter months. Not a house known for its particularly practical shoes, models slowly and deliberately wobbled past fluorescent lights on impossibly high striped wedges. The main silhouettes included over sized knit sweater dresses and simple leather coat dresses, while the twisted long sleeved romper stole the show.

Photo Courtesy of IMAXtree.com and Matteo Volta, 2010
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac -
There is nothing quite like a Jean-Charles de Castelbajac show, and the fall/winter 2010 one did not disappoint. From the paparazzi swarm around Dita von Teese to the hipster electro-pop duo's performance to one of the models leading a dog around the catwalk, the shows entertainment value was upstaged only by the clothes themselves. The collection was inspired by Bambi in the medieval ages, and her visage was featured on many pieces, including an exquisite paillette dress. The designer also sent out looks that appeared to be crafted from middle age tapestries, in addition to dresses that could protect a gallant knight, and even a stained glass window inspired cardigan.

Photo Courtesy of IMAXtree.com and Matteo Volta, 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Valentino Fall 2010

2010-03-11T13:55:00.008-05:00

March 9, 2010-Paris

by David Pedroza

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri made an attempt to restore the reputation for the House of Valentino this season, after their not so widely acclaimed Haute Couture show in January. The duo tried to make Valentino cool for spring couture, and advert their clientele to a younger generation (yes, there is young clients, but none of them are teenagers!). For Fall 2010, the duo showed a fresh take on Valentino ready-to-wear, showing obvious references to Valentino, and making it their own. For instance scalloped, edged white dress, referenced from Valentino's shadow and white collections, tons of ruffles, flounces, tired-beaded pretty gowns, and of course Valentino Red to finish off, with a more youthful flounced gown. The collection was still young, but not too young, with pieces that will still draw older, more sophisticated, clientele. After seeing this, you would think why Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri haven't been doing this since the beginning, but this is a process for many young, new, designers, especially when they have to fill very large shoes!

Photos by Marcio Madeira, 2010

Alexander The Great: Alexander McQueen's Last Collection

2010-03-10T09:57:00.010-05:00

March 10,2010-Paris
by David Pedroza

The Last collection of Alexander McQueen was stage at the opulent La Conciergerie, in Paris Yesterday. A 16 piece collection of haute couture worthy dresses were shown by private presentation, which gave a solemn, sad feeling, for the loss of this true Artist. This is the collection McQueen had been working on before his death, a collection of religion, Requiem, regal, and quintessentially McQueen. The work took inspiration from Byzantine art; woodcarver, Grinling Gibbons, whose work decorates St Paul’s Cathedral. The workmanship was haute couture, heavily beaded bullion gold on scarlet red, wings hand painted on a gown, and gowns made in rich royal silks. The final gown was a hand made, gold-leaf feathered frock coat with a tulle skirt covered in a cloud of gold embroidery, ending this spectacular show, from a designer who knew his craft and had a vision like no other. This collection is a collectors dream, and many people will hold this memory dear in their hearts forever.

Photos courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Paris Fashion Week: Giambattista Valli Fall 2010

2010-03-09T09:40:00.010-05:00

Paris-March 8, 2010

by David Pedroza

Leave it to Giambattista Valli to give us something cute, sweet, and sexy for Fall 2010. He Incorporated inspirations from Courreges's mod skirts, Yves Saint Laurent's Chiffon baby doll dresses, and Millie Fleur of tiny ruffles on skirts and sheaths. Valli left behind his hyper, vibrant color story from spring 2010, to bring a softer, palette of cream, white, rose pink, and classic blacks. This collection is one of the best from this talented designer, always giving his clients what they want with out compromising his vision. The collection concentrated on texture, while some of the silhouettes where reminiscent of Cardin (a tweed suit with ruffles had a Chanel feeling to it). In my book, some of Valli's pieces are a must have for Fall 2010

Photos by Marcio Madeira, 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Viktor & Rolf and Givenchy Fall 2010

2010-03-08T09:27:00.008-05:00

Paris ready-to-wear, by David Pedroza

Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010
Although Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren shows have been thought as spectacles by great showmen, for Fall 2010 they delivered a collection of not just wearable art, but real clothes. This collection had some beautifully tailored jackets and sexy black dresses. At times some of the pieces were extreme and in epic proportions,meant to be worn by those who are not faint at heart.

Givenchy Fall 2010
Riccardo Tisci, was thinking Ski resort for Fall 2010, but it came across more like Martin Margiela, avant-garde minimalism. This collection was kept tight with a black, white and red color palette, and was more about line and structure, compared his previous ready-to-wear collections for this famed Parisian house. Tisci did incorporate lace with sharp tailoring, proving that he can make serious clothes and not just a show.

Photos by Monica Feudi, 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Dior Fall 2010

2010-03-05T17:15:00.008-05:00

March 5, 2010

Paris, by David Pedroza

Following his equestrian-themed couture collection, John Galliano showed a more wearable version for his ready-to-wear collection for Dior. Although, I personally loved the Dior couture show and one wouldn't think twice to acquire some of the ensembles, the Fall pret-a-porter was a more youthful and sexy way to wear eighteenth-century inspired jackets, and jodhpurs with pretty, light, chiffon dresses. the collection for Fall featured edgy and feminine leather coats and frilled skirts, followed by an evening line up of uber-sexy, delicate chiffon gowns, with delicate lace embroidery. So soft and pretty for Fall, one would defiantly need to invest in these dresses.

Photos by Monica Feudi, 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Balmain Fall 2010

2010-03-05T10:39:00.004-05:00

March 4, 2010-Paris

Christophe Decarnin's vision for the house of Balmain is not Oscar de La Renta's Park Avenue Matron, or the original founder's Haute Parisian Society Glamour, but a rock-n-roll, rebellious 21st century woman. Taking inspiration in Louis XIV at Versailles, and Prince's Purple rain with silhouettes inspired by Balmain's 1970's couture pant suits and Cardin's space age. This collection was very close to being Tom Ford for Gucci, but yet Decarnin catered to his clientele, who asks for short, mini beaded dresses and sharp military jackets. keeping true to his vision, exclusiveness and great workmanship, Am sure this collection will do fine when it hits stores in this Fall. -David Pedroza

Photos by Marcio Madeira for FirstView.com, 2010

Quicktake: Rodarte at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum

2010-02-24T16:49:00.004-05:00

By David Pedroza

On Thursday, February 19, 2010, The Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum hosted a party for the opening of Quicktake: Rodarte, a new exhibition revealing the unique design process and inspiration behind cult brand Rodarte. Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the brains behind this highly conceptual brand have opened their books, and share with the public the genius behind their work. Using couture techniques and out of the ordinary materials to create dresses that have a life of their own. Creating mosaics of skins, tulle, glass stones, and paint, the Mulleavy’s have earned a large following of best dressed women, such as actress Cate Blanchett , American Couture collector Christine Suppes, and V-Magazine’s Cecilia Dean. Celebrities galore and fashion mavens attended this important design event on Thursday, with guests including Anna Wintour, Kim Gordon, and Christine Suppes, in full support, wearing Rodarte. Cooper-Hewitt hosts their first major exhibition in an American Museum, which will be on view until through March 14.

Photo by Carmel Wilson, 2010