Josephus Thimister Haute Couture Spring 2010

Today Josephus Thimister sent out a strong, meaningful, collection of gorgeous clothes for both men and women. He opened the couture season with a statement inspired by Bolshevik Revolution, Russian military uniforms and blood shed brought on by war; Thimister's collection was still luxury at its best. The collection, displaying both ready-to-wear and haute couture with unquestionable showmanship and craftsmanship; Imperial duchess satin and blood red-beaded dresses; blood stained jodhpurs and tanks; a crackling "thermal blanket" foil gown; and gold ribbon, woven ball gown with a revealing back showed everlasting haute couture spirit. I am sure this true maverick, will not have trouble fill orders from clients both new and old. -David Pedroza

Ribbon woven Gown, Josephus Thimister Couture Spring 2010

Foil Gown, Josephus Thimister Couture Spring 2010

Scarlet red Bugle beaded gown, Josephus Thimister Couture 2010

Note: All photos by Yahoo News, 2010

Josephus Thimister Returns to Paris Couture

After a decade, 47 year old dutch couturier, Josephus Thimister, will present his military inspired couture collection on January 24, 2010. His Anti-War collection will open the couture season, with stark wardrobe of Cossack coats, military jackets, and jodhpurs. Don't expect red carpet gowns, but architectural columns and "survival blanket" trousers, made to look burnt. Thimister's collection will be shown in a red, white, khaki color pallet, with some pieces requiring 500 hours of work, such as a blood-red, beaded gown with hood. The couturier used classic haute couture techniques with out compromising his modern, avant-garde vision. The self financed Thimister had help from friends to show his collection on the 24th of January, and will display a collection that is truly self expressed. In the 1990's Thimister was a star in the avant-garde minimalist movement, along with Veronique Branquinho, Martin Margiela, and Miguel Adrover, with clients willing to spend $3,000 to $23,000 for his creations. He was persuaded to show again by the Federation Française de la Couture, a couture collection that not only sends his message, but also a message of beautifully made clothes. -David Pedroza

Atelier Maison Legeron

In 1945, Diana Vreeland sent an assistant to Paris, on a mission to bring back a fabric rose from a couture atelier, as proof that couture had survived World War II. Most likely that rose came from Maison Legeron. Atelier Maison Legeron was founded in 1880 and today Legeron stands as the last atelier which produces haute couture flowers in fabric. Maison legeron still makes some of the most beautiful artificial flowers that grace the surfaces of Dior gowns, Lacroix Dresses and Dominique Sirop coats. The house crafts flowers in silk and feathers, using old world techniques. Maison Legeron Collection is the houses service of haute couture accessories, offering silk flower pins and brooches to be worn with any garment you may own. A selection of natural-looking silk flowers are now available, exclusively through Couture Lab (http://www.couturelab.com/).

Velvet and silk floral brooch in black, Maison Legeron, $392, at Couturelab.com

Haute Couture is Upon Us

Photo by Partick Demarchelier

by David Pedroza

One of the most fascinating fashion events, is just around the corner. Haute Couture, an art that has been questioned in the past years, and more recently with the economic down turn and with the backrupcy of a reputable fashion house, will prove it self as a enduring craft. On January 24, 2010, Paris will host, for 5 days, from great fashion houses, both large and small, the Haute Couture collections for a modern era. In the last year haute couture shows have become accessible to millions of people on the Internet and has expanded its global client base to the Middle East, India, Russia and China. Although, with the bad economy,last January, the two grandest fashion houses in Paris, Chanel and Dior, were posting sales increases of 20 and 35 percent. The number of American clients has dwindled, but a large increase in Middle Easter and Asian clients has increased sales for some haute couture houses. Not only has haute couture attracted new clients (including younger age clients, some in their twenties), but also a group of new designers, such as Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Alexandre Matthieu. For the Spring 2010 collections, The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, made this spectacular a bigger event with the showing of fine jewelery collections, inviting jewelers Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, Chaumet, Dior and Chanel Haute Joaillerie, on the official couture calendar. Couture week will also include the return of modern, minimalist, Joshepus Thimister, who in the past has created simple, yet artistic impressions of haute couture, using simple fabrics such as cotton canvas, which have been dip dyed to create an ombre effect, then distressed.

Chanel couture workshop, Fall 2007 (photo New York Times)

There will also be an empty void, without the presence of Christian Lacroix , staging one of his flamboyant and gorgeous collections of sugary, colorful gowns. Many houses have gone in the past years, Yves Saint Laurent in 2002, Emanuel Ungaro in 2004, and Ateiler Versace, who does make haute couture collections, but does not stage a show in Paris. The lost of some of couture's greatest may have been the reason for some speculation on the existence of haute couture, but there will always be a group of people who will support this craft and of those in the ateliers. Chanel has saved several small ateliers, such as Lasage (embroidery), Massaro (shoes), Maison Michel (milliner) and Lemarie (feathers) who are at the core of this art. With out these specialists, the extinction of haute couture is possible. The work that goes into these beautiful clothes, hours of hand work, and the perfect fit on a clients body, justifies a five to six figure price tag( the less priced items, from Dominique Sirop, Matte crepe day dress for $9,000). When one enters the rarefied world of Haute Couture, there is not turning back, it is a way of life and there is no other way to dress, than in Haute Couture for some clients. Haute Couture, may it be important or unimportant for some people, makes some dreams come true, especially in a tough world.

Note: Master the Art of Style will report on the up coming Haute Couture Fashion week from January 24-28, 2010.

The Art of a Handbag: Akris Bags

Akris Horse Hair and Leather Bag, Price Upon Request. Akris, NYC.

I remember meeting Albert Kriemler, a couple of years ago in New York, he was a gentile man who loves to design beautiful clothing and cares about the craft of making fine clothing. He brought modern sensibility from his native Switzerland into fashion, and made it his own with minimal, yet elegant design. So when he launched his accessories line for spring 2010, I knew to expect, gorgeous, well made bags. The bags have been crafted in box calf or soft cervo leather along with woven horsehair and are available in colors such as Ecru, cayenne, garnet, slate, mocha, greige, smoke, and black. These bags are sure to surpass the usual "it" bag and the changes of time; wouldn't be surprised if they become classics. Akris accessories are available at the Akris flagship store, 835 Madison Avenue, New York or at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. -David Pedroza

Style Diary: The Irresistible Heidi Dillon

Founder of The Fashionistas by David Pedroza

For some women, the older they get, the better they look. They take better care of them selves and know exactly what looks great on them. This is true in the case of Heidi Dillon, a woman who has become a style expert when it comes to dressing her self. Heidi, who resides in Dallas, is the founder and Executive Director of The Fashionistas, a non-profit organization. The Fashionistas raise funds for scholarships for fashion design students. Heidi is truly one of a kind, especially in Texas, were the train of thought is always… less is more and conservatism rules supreme. Heidi, who is over 50, commits every right move in keeping her self looking great. She knows which designers to got to, and what silhouettes work for her body. Heidi shares her personal (and witty) wisdom on how she stays so irresistibly chic…

DP: How would you define your personal style and what influenced you?

HD: I am 56, so I have had to do a lot of soul searching about the evolution of my style. While I stay in great shape and look "young" for my age, there are so many things that I no longer feel comfortable wearing. As you grow older you should reveal skin very judiciously. I still love to wear a skin-tight Herve Leger dress, but it needs to be one that is longer and doesn't cause back fat bulge. Skinny straps are a no-no unless you throw a shrug on top. But I digress. My assistant just told me that my style is very well edited. That makes me feel good. I like to look a bit intimidating, so I wear very high heels whenever possible and stick to a lot of black, architectural clothes. I love doing a somewhat softened biker chick look but try not to be to cliché about it. I have a M.F.A. so most of the things I buy are on the "artsy" side.

DP: Which store is your favorite to shop?

HD: I consider myself a Barney's girl. I also do quite a bit of damage at Alexander McQueen, Prada, Jil Sander and Donna Karan. There is a store in Dallas that I love called FortyFiveTen.

DP: Which designers dominate in your wardrobe?

HD: McQueen, Prada, Jil Sander, Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester, Givenchy, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein.

DP: Who is your favorite designer?

HD: Alexander McQueen

DP: What is your Daily uniform?

HD: My daily uniform changes with the seasons, but this fall I have been wearing black, skinny J Brand jeans, a James Purse t-shirt, tons of bracelets, Chanel motorcycle boots, a brightly colored Hermes scarf and a cashmere or fur coat or jacket. We'll see what happens this spring.

DP: What perfume do you wear? Do you think a perfume can say a lot about a woman?

HD: I wear Rue Faubourg by Hermes, usually in the evening, and Allure by Chanel during the day. I have worn those two scents for years. They seem to describe me on an olfactory level - mature, definitely not "girly", a bit sensual, but that's another conversation!

DP: Have you ever bought Haute Couture? If so, what was your first purchase?

HD: Why do you torment me with this question? It is my dream to buy Haute Couture. I go to the shows in Paris and feel transformed. One day.....

DP: What are your must have pieces for spring 2010?

HD: As always, I am going to go for the "less is more" look. I think that Phoebe Philo at Celine has done an incredible job of emphasizing the importance of minimalism. That, however is not to say that I am not going to go for some more billowy looks. There is something about being on the beach in a flowing dress.

DP: What is your view on shoes?

HD: If I could, I would sleep in 5" heels and wake up every day 5'10". The taller my 12 year old son gets, the higher my shoes get. Flats are an evil necessity.

DP: What are your must have accessories?

HD: I am, of course, obsessed with Birkin and Kelly bags, I also love bracelets which I like to pile all the way up my arm. Recently I have been enjoying wearing my scarves. Maybe because I spend so much time out in LA/Malibu and that's the look there or maybe because they cover up my aging neck! Shoes - see above!

DP: If you could raid some one’s closet, whose closet would it be?

HD: I am so intrigued by Rick Owen’s partner Michele Lamy. She certainly stands out in a crowd with her gold teeth and incredible style. I would be happy wearing Rick and Gareth Pugh.

DP: Do you have any tips on keeping a well organized closet?

HD: I have two closets, one of which I share with my husband and both of which are woefully small (by fashionista standards, that is). Consequently, I have a very difficult time keeping things organized - especially since my wardrobe is predominantly black! Every spring and fall I take a couple of days to edit out the deadwood. You have to be careful when editing because once you get into a closet cleaning frenzy, you may wind up letting go of some things that you will regret later. I organize my closet by designer because that's how I think about each piece - the Jil Sander cape or the Prada evening coat. That way I can go right to the piece rather than wading through a mishmash of black.

Heidi Dillon in her signature Black.

Master The Art of Shopping: Rodarte's Limited Edition Men's Wear

Men's Cardigan, Rodarte, $2,760.00. Exclusive at Opening Ceremony NYC.

Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavys, has introduced a limited line of men's sweaters, exclusive to Opening Ceremony's New York store. This is not a launch for a men's wear line, but a special, limited edition of sweaters inspired by the women's signature spiderweb weave. This project came to be when the co-founder of Opening Ceremony, Humberto Leon, mentioned that he wanted a Rodarte sweater. So the sisters of this cult brand, created 4 men's sweaters, which are available exclusively at Opening Ceremony for a limited time. Each sweater is hand-made, with irregular knots, creating an ethereal look.The sweaters are now available at Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St. in New York City(www.openingceremony.us).-D.P.