Theirry Villenave: Couture Milliner for Men

Out side the Theirry Villenave shop. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 

Written by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Forward, Art Direction, and Photographs by Wilson McCord

 

Forward:On numerous occasions during my stay in Paris, in the fall of 2012, I walked home late at night passing the shops, now dark on the rue du roi Sicile. But one small shop in the Marais, whose lights still burned bright, caught my interest.I looked in the window at the beautiful fabrics that gave off an iridescent glow. Their contrasting rich colors made me feel like a child looking in the window of a candy store.Fantastic! At the very back of the store a young designer was busy sewing late into the night. And, the idea that there were still young artisans in the world whose passion for creating beautiful clothes was still alive made me smile every time I passed.Late one evening in November, David Pedroza, Baptiste de Bermingham, director of fabrics at the famed Embroidery House Hurel, and I passed the shop. I told the two creative sleuths we had to stop and visit.It was the first time I would enter world of Theirry Villenave but it will not be my last.

Geometric cap in blue cotton twill. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 

Beautiful lining, pieced like a puzzle. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012

 

During my trip in Paris, Wilson McCord introduced me to Thierry Villenave. Thierry is a men’s accessories and shirt designer, with a great boutique in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement, the Marais.The shop is simple with a modern-rustic appearance, and a private ambiance. Thierry Villenave, opened his boutique in 1995, to develop a more creative aesthetic in men’s fashion and to expand his technical know-how in constructing minimal, yet complicated designs.The shop is small and intimate with a very impressive selection of hats, scarves, and dress shirts, all developed and made by Thierry, himself. The Thierry Villenave hat collection is a strong expression of classic silhouettes, in geometric form using nontraditional fabrics.A mixture of men’s wear fabrics, such as wool herringbone, tropical wool suiting fabrics, cotton piques, wool plaids, and linens, were all mixed in with elegant florals, saturated colors, and delicate cotton liberty prints.Knitted caps in faire isle patterns are saturated in bright colors, and created out of soft cotton or merino wool yarns.Thierry explained to us his passion for textiles, and using masculine fabrics, with subtle feminine details, without losing its appeal for men. He works with textile mills in Paris, to create new, exclusive fabric (made in a scarf) of a glen plaid, which has been engineered to alternate and break, to give it an appearance of patchwork, but without the seam work.Thierry Villenave is a true craftsman, with the technical skills and knows how to construct all his work by hand. No detail is ever too small or insignificant, including the linings of his hats, which are pieces in soft, feather weight, cotton voile or twill, in bold colors, or graphic prints. The shirts are another example of great hand work and modern design, which have been made in cotton and satin blends, with linear contrasting lines or piping. Thierry tailors strong wing collars, sometimes with contrasting under collars, and traditional French cuffs with contracting knot closures. Thierry Villenave may not be a house hold name, but he is a true gem in Paris. When it comes to complementing a man’s wardrobe, the excellent craftsmanship and unique vision makes Thierry Villenave the go to man for men’s shirts and accessories.

Selection of hats in color saturated prints. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

Caps in men's suiting fabrics. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 Theirry Villenave hats are available by order, or at his boutique on 28, rue du roi Sicile, Paris, France. Visit the Theirry Villenave Website.

Maison Christophe Josse

The Christophe Josse Haute Couture showroom. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

Written by, David Pedroza, Editor in Chief
Sit-in-Editor, Art Direction, and Photography by Wilson McCord

Paris, November 26, 2012

We had the privilege of going to Christophe Josse salon, a small house, with a big name, and a very strong international following. Christophe Josse is one, out of the 17 grand couturiers, to have the official title of haute Couture, granted by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. This title was bestowed upon Mr. Josse, January 2011, six years  after he opened the house.  Christophe Josse began his career in haute couture as an assistant for Louis Feraud, learning the craft of couture from one of the original grand couturiers. He then moved to Torrente, where he worked under Madame Rose Torrente, founder of the house. In 2003, Christophe Josse was appointed Creative Director of Torrente, where he was head of the prêt-a-porter and haute couture collections. With more than 20 years of experience, and extensive knowledge in haute couture, it was an obvious and suitable move for Mr. Josse to open his own Maison de Couture, in 2005.

Christophe Josse aesthetic is very modern and feminine. He never fights against fabric, and there is always movement in his clothes that feel relaxed, yet sculpted. Mr. Josse uses many references to contemporary architect and develops new techniques with cutting and adornment to create modern structures on the body.  For Spring 2012 the atelier created hand-blown glass bubbles, which where sewn by hand on to the neck lines of tops and dresses,  creating delicate sculptural and modern embellishments, with a romantic touch.  In the Fall 2012 haute couture collection, the designer took inspiration from architect Tadao Ando's concrete Church of the Light in Japan. The strong clean lines of the Church have been transformed into graphic lines on to dresses with sheer seams of silk organza inserts, or high polished satin.  Controlled graphic seams where inverted outwards and topstitched, emphasizing the feminine form. Day wear was strong, with sharp architectural dresses in double faced crepe, and an outstanding tunic in black crocodile.

The caviar-beaded tulle top with a pleated, lacquered full skirt.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 

Christophe Josse Haute Couture House is situated at  231 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, which was officially opened in 2008. The 3rd floor salon is modern and yet romantic, with its plush taupe-grey carpets, deep grey walls, and warm lighting. We were warmly welcomed by the Directrice of Haute Couture, Diane Loury, who is responsible for working with the clients and guiding them through the process of haute couture.  The entire Fall 2012 collection had just been flown to Singapore for the second annual Singapore Haute Couture Fashion week , which received such strong reactions that it increased interests in haute couture. Christophe Josse has a strong following of Asian and Middle eastern clients who demand his polished haute couture creations.  I was fortunate to be taken through some of the Spring 2012 couture pieces and ready to wear from the current Fall collection. An atelier of about a dozen, well qualified seamstresses, created magical pieces that hung beautifully on the racks, as the recent couture collection played in the background. Some stand out personal favorites included a caviar-beaded tulle, bateau neck top with a pleated, lacquered full skirt. The other was a blush pink, plisse organza cocktail dress, on a crinoline base, with degrade of ostrich feathers.  On a rack, in front of the windows, were delicate, soft gowns, saturated in bright colors, deliberately romantic, and modestly adorned so not to lose the integrity of the fabrics used. Madame Loury, assured  us that this was “real haute couture” and the Christophe Josse atelier is highly skilled to create such dresses. With many clients in the same social circles she also makes sure no two clients can ever order the same dress.

Maison Christophe Josse follows strict traditions of haute couture, from workmanship to service, without compromising Mr. Josse’s vision or aesthetics. It was a wonderful feeling to be in a house which is independent, has the creative freedom to blossom, as it has begun to, into a rare flower of Haute Couture. As the number of Couture clients increase, and the number of artisans decrease, it is vital that the support of house, such as Christophe Josse, continue and future couturiers can learn from a contemporary couturier such as Mr. Josse. 

 

All photos are property of Wilson McCord, 2012-2013. Master the Art of Style has the exclusive rights to use these photos. These photos are not intended to be shared or taken with out consent from the photographer, Wilson McCord.

 

JOYEUX NOEL from MASTER the ART of STYLE

The Holiday Windows and Exceptional Boutique Interiors of Paris

David Pedroza, Editor in Cheif

Photographs by Wilson McCord

Swarovski Christmas Tree at Galeries Lafayette

The City of Lights, captured in the window's of Bon Marche

Moving Clock at Bon Marche

The clock in motion at Bon Marche. 

Alexandre Vauthier for Pyrenex

Sonia Rykiel's store window 

Dior at Printemps

Dior's Skating Dolls Window at Printemps

Dior's Dolls in Dior Couture for Printemps

Hermes Flagship store

Spanish couturier, Renaldo Alvarez's Store

Chanel Window on Rue Cambon 

Rendez vous at Dior Couture

The Feathered Dress, Dior Salon. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012

 

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Photographs by Wilson McCord

 

Paris November 26, 2012

On a chilled, grey winter day in Paris, I stepped foot into 30 avenue Montaigne, the famed address of Christian Dior Haute Couture, were Mr. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, and newly appointed, Raf Simons, have used its facilities as an incubator to experiment on clothes, and create icons that represent their times.

 

As one reads about haute couture, more and more clients are reluctant to attend to the runways shows, and prefer to see the clothes through private appointments. They say one can appreciate the clothes more if you touch, feel, and wear them for yourself; which was my initial reaction as I ascended the stair case to the salon, where mid landing was a recent Dior couture dress on display. For his Fall 2012 debut collection, Mr. Raf Simons wanted to “create clothes women can live their lives in.” The collection consisted of just that, beautiful clothes that modern woman could wear day by day. Mr. Simons was so fascinated with the archives of Christian Dior, that he took iconic looks, such as the Dior “Bar” suit and dresses from the 1950’s collections and reinterpreted them for a 21century woman. The “Bar” Jacket was recut into a modern hour glass, and immaculately tailored in a dense, rich, wool that was created especially for the house in Japan. The jackets had an “S” silhouette that was created with softer lines and a dramatic bell at the hips. Most looks, even the most formal pieces, were paired with perfectly cut cigarette pants, narrow down the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle, to give each look a casual touch. 

 

Details of a Mother-of-Pearl, hand embellished, cut-off Ball gown, by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord  

 

 The recent acquisition of the Vermont Embroidery House, was used to its full potential, when it came to lavish embellishment, especially with one, beaded, multicolored apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.It was pointed out by the venduse, that Mr. Simons has a love for contemporary art, which easily explains my instant attraction to this piece, that was beaded by the Vermont Atelier, with a hand that gives the effect of the artist’s strokes and textures. Other pieces in the collection where printed in shadow prints inspired by painter Sterling Ruby.

 

The beaded apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 

There were two exceptional ball gowns, in the front of the salon, both densely adorned, one in feathers to create pale pink and blue stripes, the other in airy, strips of chiffon, that had been painstakingly cut and sewn by hand. Both gowns, weightless to the touch, an indication of a light hand in the capable ateliers of Dior. The gowns had direct Dior influences, without losing the integrity of modern aesthetics. A Black tulle strapless gown was made in silk marquessate net, embroidered with velvet degrade dots, and re-embroidered in black sequins was a marvelous reinterpretation of the 1957 "Esther" Dior dress. The clothes are light, even the ball gowns, which would appeal to a client who travels often. Some pieces, could be considered very easy to travel with, such as the triple layered geometric lace pieces, which were constructed with a tulle foundation, and two different geometric cotton-silk laces that have been layered, giving the dresses, a jacket and a skirt a three dimensional appearance. 

 

A silk tulle ball gown inspried by Dior's "Esther" gown.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.



Deatils of the "New Esther" gown, by Raf Simons for Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord.

This experience proved to me the success behind this collection and a new era for the House of Dior. With more and more haute couture clients, most whom are very discreet, there is a greater demand for clothes that withstand seasonal trends, and Mr. Simons definitely knows how to provide. Although the DNA was Dior’s, this collection was defiantly Simons vision at its best!

 

Triple layered "3D" net, couture dresses by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord.

 

Things to Come

Dior's Holiday Window for Printemps, Paris. Photograph by Wilson McCord, 2012.

A Special Paris Holiday Report on the Artisans and Ateliers of Haute Couture from

Master the Art of Style.

 

 

 

All photos are property of Wilson McCord, 2012. Master the Art of Style has the exclusive rights to use these photos. These photos are not intended to be shared or taken with out consent from the photographer, Wilson McCord.

Style Diary: Stephanie Kaufman, Young Couture Muse

Street Style: Stephanie Kaufman captured during Paris Couture Week
in Miu Miu suit for the New York Times (photo NY Times)

 

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 

Now in her mid-twenties, Stephanie Kaufman represents the new generation of young, modern haute couture clients. As one of the youngs clients from the U.S., Stephanie Kaufman supports the fresh, new names of nouveau couture, favoring the visions of Alexis Mabille and Alexandre Vauthier. Stepahnie recently launched, The Collecte, along with business partner, Maria DeLisi-Minichiello. The site is a platform for new designers from all over the globe. Her passion for fashion has led to the building of an impressive wardrobe (which includes rare, vintage couture pieces from Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent), and the acolate of having great style, at such a young age.

The Young Client Front Row (Far Right) Stephanie Kaufman at
Stephane Rolland Couture Fall 2012 (Photo LA Society News)

MTAOS: How would you describe your personal style, and has your style evolved?

SK: Feminine, ladylike, clean lines with a bit of edge. My style is constantly evolving but I’m slowly learning what works for me. When you’re young I think it’s important to experiment with your style, it’s the only way it will evolve and become something that truly represents you.

MTAOS: Who inspires your personal style?

SK: There’s no one person in particular. It could be a vintage photo of a nameless face or a stylish girl in a blog. I love reading street style blogs. If I’m in a rut it will refresh my mind and inspire me to experiment in new ways.

MTAOS:  What was the very first thing that interested you about fashion and made you pursue a career in this industry?

SK: When I left Catholic school I finally had the freedom to choose my outfits.  I went crazy! Experimenting with wild colors combinations, piling on every necklace I owned. I cringe at some of the things I used to wear but it was all part of my process of discovering fashion. I became obsessed long before I even knew it was possible to study design. When I learned that there were amazing programs out there I knew I found what I should be doing.

 Kaufman front row at Julien Fournie Couture

MTAOS: How did you come about in creating The Collecte along with your Co-founder, Maria DeLisi-Minichiello?

SK: We always wanted to work together and create something unique.  We were bouncing back ideas for years and finally came up with a combination of all of our passions. We recognized a lack of opportunity for new designers and wanted to offer a platform for all kinds of designers and artisans.

MTAOS: Do you believe fashion plays an important role in society and culture?

SK: Yes, very much. Fashion can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and that in turn changes the way you act and how people treat you.

The Red Stunner: Kaufman's first couture purchase
from Alexandre Vauthier  Fall 2011

MTAOS: What was your first haute couture purchase and has haute couture change the way you buy clothes?

My first haute couture purchase was a red knit dress from Alexandre Vauthier’s red collection.  Becoming involved with couture has given me a newfound appreciating for workmanship. It’s really incredible the amount of work and detail that go into these garments. I have to say it has spoiled me.

MTAOS: Is craftsmanship and fit the fore most important thing you look for when you buy clothes?

SK: Fit is so important to me. If it doesn’t fit properly you’ll never feel completely comfortable. The older I get the more I look for and appreciate fine craftsmanship. I’ve started investing in pieces that are classic and well made. I want to build a collection of pieces that I can save and have for years. Although craftsmanship and fit are of utmost importance it won’t completely limit me. If I find a piece that I love then I love! Fashion shouldn’t be taken too seriously.

Fitting Time: Kaufman tries on her share of the Alexandre Vauthier
Spring 2012 couture, at the designers' atelier.

MTAOS: You are becoming a familiar face in the haute couture scene, and also the youngest American couture client; has it become important to you to support the art of couture or is it important for a new generation of clients to become supporters of haute couture?

SK: I consider it is a privilege to be supporting couture in any way. It’s such an incredible art form and often misunderstood or underestimated by the general public. They think how on earth could a dress be worth this amount but they don’t realize the amount of work, time and talent that goes into these pieces. I think it’s very important for the next generation to learn about, appreciate and support couture. Without continued support there’s no way couture will continue.

MTAOS: Any beauty tips for young ladies in their 20’s?

SK: Keep your product use to a minimum. Learn what works and stick to it. Also always be sure to wash your face before bed.

Captured Moment: Stephanie Kaufman, as she leaves the Fall 2011,
Dior Haute Couture show. (Photo New York Times)

 

ModeWalk takes Dallas by Storm

ModeWalk's selection, including haute couture (center and right) by Christophe Josse

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Left to Right: Guest, Jessica Olson in Rochas,
and hostess Ana Pettus in Gustavo Lins

On September 19, ModeWalk presented a trunk show in Big D...that is Dallas, TX.  ModeWalk brought trunks and trunks of Parisienne goods, that would make any coquettish fashionista faint! The trunk show was hosted by Dallas' most Fashionable set, Hiedi Dillion, Ana Pettus, and Anna-Sophia Van Zweden, at the famed Goss-Micheal foundation in uptown Dallas.

ModeWalk's Co-founder, Beatrice Pang, was on hand to meet and greet clients from Dallas, some who are new to the site, and new to the brands. ModeWalk is the go to site for designers such as Andrew Gn, Anne Valerie Hash, Atelier Gusatavo Lins, and Alexis Mabille. Not only are there 40 great must have ready to wear houses, but also a selection of haute couture picks, from personal favorite such as Christophe Josse. The ModeWalk team engaged and informed customers as they feasted on a buffet of Azzaro envelope clutches, Marion Vidal bubble necklaces, On Aura Tout Vu crystal and silver angelic cuffs, and architectural dresses by Martin Grant. I could not resist the haute couture pieces by Christophe Josse, in a soft pink gazar blouse and gold crocodile pencil skirt.  I could not resist to include my favorites that were shown at the Dallas Trunk show; it was so much fun to experience ModeWalk!

 

My Favorite: Pink Gazar Top and Gold Crocodile Skirt by Christophe Josse Haute Couture, Price Upon Request

 

 

 

 

 

Sexiest Little Black Dress: Azzaro Lace Marylou dress, $3,450 at ModeWalk.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Silver Snake Skin Clutch by Azzaro, $1,580 at ModeWalk.com

 

Photos by Ana Pinto of ModeWalk and ModeWalk.com