Paris Fashion Week Spring 2011: Return of Pierre Cardin

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief
On Wednesday September 29, 2010, Pierre Cardin present an Haute Couture collection during Paris Prêt-a-Porter fashion Week. This is a first in 10 years for the designer known as the “King of Licenses”. He proclaimed to WWD on Wednesday, this collection was to be original and innovative, with the purpose of “showing that the brand still exists as a creative force” (WWD). Although, opinions vary, this collection was Cardin being Cardin, not too far from what he has always shown in Haute Couture for the past 60 years. This collection is not to be confused with Ready-to-Wear or his licenses; it is produced in his Atelier of 80 seamstresses, in Paris and created for a private clientele. Cardin noted, he has 100 or so loyal clients that still order up to 6 dresses. The collection showed a lot of existing designs in primary colors, but Cardin did manage to present some new beautiful cocktail and evening wear in black and pink; very pretty , easy to wear, modern haute couture. Some of his looks were generated for a younger woman, while others focused on his mature loyal customers. Cardin is trying to reach the younger generation, and has already dressed Lady Gaga to attract his new following. He will be in New York Next month, trying to expand, not only his license empire, but his Haute Couture.

Photos courtesy of WWD.com

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 2

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

David Koma
Vauxhall Fashion Scout 2009 Merit winner David Koma presented ballet-inspired dresses, starting with very pale and delicate, almost tutu like, before adding bold stripes. My initial feeling is that these would be fun dresses to wear, and would make an entrance with a lot of impact. I’d like to see what Koma does with trousers and suits, because the ethereal collection is best suited to the evening---not that there is anything wrong with that! Accessories included knuckle dusters and bold cuffs of gold and hematite. Faux python was used as accents in belts and on the stripes of the chiffon or wool dresses. A true talent, it will be interesting to see how David Koma evolves.

Photos by Marcus Tondo, 2010

Holly Fulton
Miss Futon claims Joan Collins as her muse, which is forgivable in England, where the then young and very beautiful Miss Collins got her start. You must forget about Dynasty when viewing this collection. It is a kind of early sixties trip—again to the French Rivera—with swim suit ensembles and dresses with a lot of impact. No subtle looks here. Yellow Paten leather dresses lasered with martini glasses, along with Python, pony skin and raffia So much was going on in each garment that it was often had to focus. Miss Fulton claims the Memphis school as an inspiration. She is a winner of the awards at the British Fashion Awards in 2009, Elle New Designer 2010 and Scottish Young designer of the year in both 2009 and 2010.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 1

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

Elliott J. Frieze SS11
Master the Art of Style did an interview with Welsh-born designer Elliott J. Frieze last spring and he told us that his new collection would be the equestrian/equestrienne and the influence of Oxford and Cambridge. True to his word, we saw a lot of men’s suits, often with shorts, with the equestrian theme embroidered on the back of jackets. There was a kind of retro look to the collection. It could have been Oxford or Cambridge, or it could have been the French Riviera. The women’s collection, particularly, took on this location, with little English touches like pale Windsor plaid sheaths and skirt and blouse combinations. The pale blue palette was breathtaking. There was a little bit of Audrey Hepburn here, all very serene and yes, marketable. This is a true London wardrobe. I could easily see the Mitford sisters or a very young Cary Grant in these clothes. Elliott Frieze is on his way up the 21 billion pound British fashion industry ladder.

Photos by Sabina Ventriglia of ESVIE.COM, 2010

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Vivienne Westwood defines British fashion with her Grecian tunics (relatively new for her), her shapely sheaths in elegant patterns or shimmering single colors, the perfectly cut pantsuits and the to die for accessories. Red Label is Miss Westwood’s most accessible line---she also does Gold Label which is shown in Paris and has private couture clients. This collection attracted its share of celebrities, ranging from Anna Wintour to Pamela Anderson, which had the paparazzi going crazy. A well cut suit, my favorite Westwood garment, can be found in Red Label, which also had the models going to the beach to work and perhaps night clubbing. Again, Miss Westwood is unmistakeably a British designer.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

Lanvin Sets Up Shop in New York

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Lanvin has finally opened a shop in New York City, on the Upper East Side to be exact! A generous, 6,000 square foot, five-floor shop with 30 foot ceilings filled with beautiful clothes, shoes, bags, nick-nack and things....makes one feel like a child in a candy store. The store is minimal, elegant, yet intimate and features every thing from ready-to-wear to bridal. The natural lighting and its two colors, black and white, set an ideal background for the store, while letting the clothes stand out. The bridal salon has a homey feeling, as if you were in your own private dressing room!

Post Script: Visit Lanvin New York at 815 Madison Avenue, between 68th & 69th St, New York City

Photo, Lanvin 2010

LINstallation in Paris

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent

The summer heat at the gardens in the Palais Royale made LINstallation feel all the more appropriate, as many of the guests had arrived wearing just that -- linen. The name itself is a play on words, explaining what exactly LINstallation is. It is an exhibit that focuses on the qualities of fine linen. An impressive line up of top-name designers such as Stephane Rolland and Lefranc Ferrant created special pieces entirely from linen for the installation, showcasing its versatility as a material. Notable works included a waterproof jumpsuit by Jean-Paul Knott, a gorgeous trench coat with underskirt and a cinched waist, and a giant stuffed-animal-garden-ornament-cross face by the always humorous On Aura Tout Vu. All of these were situated in the miniature linen field that had been created for the event, with the pieces being displayed on posts resembling scarecrows.

Jean-Paul Knott Trench Dress
Post Script: it was impossible not to notice that red was the popular colour of choice for women's shoes for the evening.

All Photos by April Hall, 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: On Aura Tout Vu

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

On Aura Tout Vu's show, which was held under a canopy of trees in the Palais Royal, was called "Fishing for Compliments", and all manner of otherworldly underwater creatures floated down the runway. The black and white "fish scale" sheath was a standout as was the amethyst suit with long, fin-like sleeves and the adorable pancake tutu cocktail ensemble. Not surprisingly, Lady GaGa's stylist has discovered on aura tout vu and she has appeared in their creations. on aura tout vu may not be French (they are in fact Bulgarian) but they should be designated national treasures for the many French collections they saved at the 24th hour with their finesse and know how, before they wisely decided to concentrate on their own work. This was their strongest collection in several seasons.

Photos, On Aura Tout Vu Fall 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Chanel

By Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

The giant gold lion in the middle of of the Grand Palais was jaw dropping. Allegedly, Coco Chanel, a Leo, used this astrological theme in her collections nearly as much as she used the camellia, pearls and four leaf clovers. Unfortunately, we did not hear the lion's roar in this collection. Lesage should never be taken for granted, but this gorgeous work even appeared on street length dresses and matching boots. Who really wants to look like that these days? And even if one had all the money in the world, who can really afford to appear in this over-the-top way? The slim street length silhouette with a self bolero was striking and very modern. Three quarter sleeves appeared on several dresses and even fur coats. On the other hand, very few long gowns were shown. When the groom in a lion's head came out with the bride (in a short dress), many of us were hoping it was Lagerfeld. Alas, it was not. It was model Baptiste Giabiconi, the super handsome male muse of Mr. Lagerfeld. In the audience, Karl faithful Daphne Guinness showed us she was still trying, with a quasi Lady GaGa pompadour, yards of silver sequins and shoes that looked unwearable. The ultimate roar was perhaps Mr. Lagerfeld doing away with long gowns, at least for now. With the way things are going in the world, this might be a good sign in case we need to run for our lives!

Photos by Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com