A Personal Look at the Season: Haute Couture Fall 2012/2013

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

If Haute Couture isn’t personal, what is?  At Master the Art of Style, we are not bound to fashion conglomerates or beholden to big time advertisers.  Therefore, the points made in the following essay reflect the sole opinion of the writer.  As is always the case in Paris, it is during the smaller shows that inspiration and new direction are revealed. This was the case at the first scheduled show, Christophe Josse.  The light, modern direction this veteran designer continues to embrace has track record appeal which can no longer be ignored.  The beautiful tailoring, slices of bare skin in delicate cocktail dresses, discreet and refined embroideries, and wispy gowns, both romantic and modern in cut and fabric. Dior under the new creative direction of Raf Simmons  offered safe choices for its clients, by deconstructing from the Dior archives.  A beautiful dress is better and more wisely bought at one of the lesser known designers.  But if the client wants a well-cut coat, she knows where she can find one---Dior offered beautiful coats and jackets for the customer who wants Dior.  Alexis Mabille showed princess fantasy velvet gowns in midnight and black, very romantic, for a quiet and refined entrance making moment.  The respect and the finesse were both evident and self-evidence. 

Top and Bottom Photos: Alexis Mabille Couture Fall 2012,
photo by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

Chanel offered a pink and gray “vintage” pastiche.  A very direct tribute to Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld played up details, like trompe d’oeil tweed done in embroidery and an amazing puffball coat with white feather kitty whiskers at the collar.  Certainly retro, but very, very collectible. Desirable clothes that create fantasy are what drive the couture client. Mr. Lagerfeld is the smartest man in his business.  The Seventies Golden Girl took to the runway at Alexandre Vauthier’s sexy and vibrant tribute to the age of Studio 54, the last days of looking good as a way to enter a privileged, haughty world.  White jumpsuits and heavy gold chain accessories were the code to “getin”.  The question remains, “Into where”?  But fora blast to the past, this show was good fun and well done.

Top and Bottom Photos: Christophe Josse Couture Fall 2012,
by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

on aura tout vu has been an underground favorite for ten years. The darling of newspapers Le Mondeand Liberation, the sheer audacity, humor, intellectual acuity and amazing,constant replenishment of inspiration (this team was the first to embrace cellphones and cars they had embellished on stage) endear us.  The wacky headgear (“Earth to on aura tout vu”!)   allied them to their loyal followers, who know that beneath the wackiness is a solid sense of craftsmanship and refinement.  The team had previous to creating their own collections worked for among others, Christian Lacroix.  Their accessories can carry an entire simple ensemble, and yes, they can cut a killer gown. Happy 10th anniversary, on aura tout vu!  Frank Sorbier took the c off his first name and gave us a phenomenal light show.  A model stood on stage and light beamed onto her to transfer her simple sleeveless, princess cut gown into a myriad of new looks.  It was rather like being at the couture version of psychedelic light show at the Fillmore Auditorium in San Francisco, circa 1968, as well as contemporary virtual reality.  Then models appeared in the actual ensembles.  It was very funny and we all clapped for Mr. Sorbier’sachievement.

Top Photo: On Aura Tout Vu Couture Fall 2012,
photo by On Aura Tout Vu

The New Perrin Paris

"Riva" Perrin Totes, in leather ($1,450) and Crocodile ($6,285) at Perrin NYC. 

By David Pedroza, Editor at Large

Sunday, July 1, is the first day of Paris Haute Couture collections, so by now you should have last season Gaultier couture, sequined track jacket packed, along with your other ensembles for the next 5 days. But the matter of accessorizing still needs to be solved, so this season turns to the sleek and modern designs of Perrin Paris.



Perrin is a family leather goods business that was founded in 1893 by Victor Rigaudy. The company was revamped by Michel and Sally Perrin in 2008, and recently opened the first Perrin boutique at the Carlyle Hotel in New York City. The ideals of craftsmanship and modern design still carry importance at the House of Perrin, which is reflected on their spring 2013 collection.

The "Attelage" in goatskin ($895) and Crocodile (price upon request) at Perrin NYC

Perrin’s “Riva” bag has become a house staple, taking shape of a sphere created by strips of exotic skins that have been crossed and intricately manipulated to create an oversize tote. Another, personal Favorite is “Cabriolet”,in patent leather, which has the appearance of a very chic-mini-bucket. These are surely a must have for ever season.

"Cabriolet" Mini patent minaudiere ($895) at Perrin NYC.

Perrin Paris 1893 The Carlyle Hotel 987 Madison Avenue at 76th Street New York - New York 10021 USA Tel 212 585 1893
sales@perrinparis.com

 All Photos: Perrin Paris

A New Season: Haute Couture Fall 2012

Christophe Josse Haute Couture Spring 2012
 photo: ModeWalk.com

The questioning on the survival of haute couture has been a topic that is slowly dissipating into history. There has been a rebirth of haute couture, due to the increase in public interest, wide spread media tools such as the internet, and a healthy increase in demand from its loyal customers.  A younger generation of women have turned to the art, thus an increase in new and younger couturiers have emerge, while older houses are working hard to keep their lines youthful and modern to attract younger clients, while maintaining the older clientele.  The internet has played an important role; brining haute couture to the masses, by streaming shows live, live feeds, and up-to-date reports.  E-commerce site, ModeWalk.com, has been the first and only online destination to sell haute couture, and receive endorsement from the French Federation of fashion, Chambre Syndicale de la haute couture. The new generation of couturiers holds the key to this enduring art that has survived many trials of economic turmoil and social changes.  Old  established houses, are returning to their virtues with youth,   classic and season-less clothes, and back to the craft; the essentials of haute couture. Master the Art of Style will cover the Fall 2012/2013 collections July 1- July 5, and will have daily coverage from our corresponding team in Paris.  

Special Thanks to all of the following haute couture houses in advanced for extending their kindness, help, and access to their beautiful world: Atelier Versace, Alexis Mabille, Alexandre Vauthier, Christian Dior, Dany Atrache, Elie Saab, Christophe Josse, Georges Chakra, Givenchy, Stephane Rolland, On Aura Tout Vu, and Valentino. And a special thanks to ModeWalk.com for their support.

Dior Couture by Patrick Demarchelier

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Earlier this year, I received a gift from Madame Catherine Riviere, directrice of Dior Haute Couture. It was a surprise and of course a privilege to receive anything for a woman I respect and from a house I admire. There is such a warm feeling from receiving a large box from Dior, a bit like receiving your first haute couture purchase, except this couture item came in the form of a book. I am an avid fashion book collector, so I was so happy to receive this book,  "Dior Couture" by Patrick Demarchelier. A large and beautiful coffee table size book with amazing photographs by Patrick Demarchelier of the houses famed haute couture creations.  Over 100 couture looks are vividly illustrated in the photographs by Demarchelier, which includes designs by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and John Galliano's most recent creations for the house. The book also features, beautiful 1940's looks from the founder himself, Christian Dior. The photos them selves have a more intimate feeling, which are taken in both color and black and white. There are several breath taking images of regal ball gowns that evoke the grandeur of the houses heritage and history. Dior Couture is a must have for any book collector or couture collector; Thank you Madame Catherine Riviere!

Photos by Wilson McCord for Master the Art of Style

Chadwick Bell Fall 2012

Top center Video and Right photo by Wilson McCord for Master the Art of Style

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

For Fall 2012, Chadwick Bell's muse was a woman created by his intellectual, imaginative mind. Driven by his deep passions for beauty, cultivated from photographs by Bob Richardson's Anjelica Huston, and Arlene Gottfried's Midnight, Chadwick Bell created a collection that stirs one's emotions, and was touched with a French savoir faire!  Chadwick Bell is one of very few American designers who's work evoke an haute couture quality and spirit.  The muse of the collection is "A perfect woman in an imperfect situation" as he puts it.   Bell's line up was absolutly beautiful, containing all the right notes, and executed in the richest colors and fabrics. Day wear was kept minimal and abstract, with soft volumes and dense textures. Suits were immaculately tailored to perfection, nipped at the waist, with soft feminine shoulders (a favorite was a suit created in a gold floral lame by Jakob Schlaepher textiles ). Lipstick red wool created soft elegant day dresses, that would make Tippi Hedren    swoon, while rich, plush velvet was paired with radzimir silk to create modern, yet classic, cocktail ensembles. Stand out looks: boxy coat adorned with silver fox fur from saga furs, a velvet peplum organza blouse paired with an embroidered lame skirt, and a green, spotted jacquard chiffon gown with feathers applied by hand. This is one of the best to come from a designer who strives to be his own, never foregoing into trends, but creating the most beautiful and quality clothes in the United States. No doubtedly, Chadwick Bell will become a legend in his own right!

Runway Photos by Alessandro Viero

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Lightness, best sums up Elie Saab's Spring 2012 haute couture collection. Over the seasons, Elie Saab's hand has soften, creating delicate and lovely gowns, that have been a favorite among red carpet attendees. This collection was touched with soft, spring colors such as a warm peach, soft baby yellow, crystal blue, peony pink, all bunched with a bold, sea foam green and white, botanical print; creating a bouquet of charming, soft, and elegant dresses. Silhouettes were classic, regal gowns, and short, volumes, most with long sleeves in organza or embellished tulle. Saab's beading have become more refined, and require more skilled hands to create these embroideries that seam to float over the fabric, instead of weighing them down. Lace pieces were dense, yet light as a feather..... Elie Saab has shown his softer side, proving that he and his atelier have evolved for the better.

Photos Courtesy of Elie Saab

Valentino Haute Couture spring 2012

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 The purpose of Haute Couture is to create the best quality clothing that fits the body to perfection, that are exclusive and unique. There is nothing superficial about making beautiful clothes, although, a simple day dress may cost upwards to 34,000 euros, but clients demand the best fabrics, the best workmanship, the best fit, and the sense that they are wearing a vision of an artist they love.  At Valentino, spring 2012 collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, succeeding in giving their clients exactly what they want, great, feminine, quality clothes. These designers kept the aesthetics and integrity of it original founder, creating couture dresses that real women wear (since last year, sales in couture at Valentino have gone up 80 percent). Marie Antoinette seems to have gotten the best of Pier and Maria, in creating whimsical, graceful gowns suited for Her Royal Highness's garden tea party. Long prairie, blossom printed, organza gowns were lovely, in their simplicity and modesty (most dresses were long sleeves). Silk China silk taffeta coats and ball gowns were embroidered with self, gathered scrolls and spiral inserts. Large usefull pockets were in every dress and skirt, a hint of practicality. Some pieces were so intricate and special, such as a suit covered in soft pastel green sequins and golden embroidery, and a delicate chiffon dress, covered in clear, glass beading. Ball gowns were appliqued with layers of fragile lace, and pieces to look like cozy quilts. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri has mastered bringing a story to the house of Valentino, with out compromising the houses integrity, and most of all keeping their clients happy!

Photos by Stephanie Kaufman for Master The Art Of Style, 2012