JOYEUX NOEL from MASTER the ART of STYLE

The Holiday Windows and Exceptional Boutique Interiors of Paris

David Pedroza, Editor in Cheif

Photographs by Wilson McCord

Swarovski Christmas Tree at Galeries Lafayette

The City of Lights, captured in the window's of Bon Marche

Moving Clock at Bon Marche

The clock in motion at Bon Marche. 

Alexandre Vauthier for Pyrenex

Sonia Rykiel's store window 

Dior at Printemps

Dior's Skating Dolls Window at Printemps

Dior's Dolls in Dior Couture for Printemps

Hermes Flagship store

Spanish couturier, Renaldo Alvarez's Store

Chanel Window on Rue Cambon 

Rendez vous at Dior Couture

The Feathered Dress, Dior Salon. Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012

 

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Photographs by Wilson McCord

 

Paris November 26, 2012

On a chilled, grey winter day in Paris, I stepped foot into 30 avenue Montaigne, the famed address of Christian Dior Haute Couture, were Mr. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, and newly appointed, Raf Simons, have used its facilities as an incubator to experiment on clothes, and create icons that represent their times.

 

As one reads about haute couture, more and more clients are reluctant to attend to the runways shows, and prefer to see the clothes through private appointments. They say one can appreciate the clothes more if you touch, feel, and wear them for yourself; which was my initial reaction as I ascended the stair case to the salon, where mid landing was a recent Dior couture dress on display. For his Fall 2012 debut collection, Mr. Raf Simons wanted to “create clothes women can live their lives in.” The collection consisted of just that, beautiful clothes that modern woman could wear day by day. Mr. Simons was so fascinated with the archives of Christian Dior, that he took iconic looks, such as the Dior “Bar” suit and dresses from the 1950’s collections and reinterpreted them for a 21century woman. The “Bar” Jacket was recut into a modern hour glass, and immaculately tailored in a dense, rich, wool that was created especially for the house in Japan. The jackets had an “S” silhouette that was created with softer lines and a dramatic bell at the hips. Most looks, even the most formal pieces, were paired with perfectly cut cigarette pants, narrow down the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle, to give each look a casual touch. 

 

Details of a Mother-of-Pearl, hand embellished, cut-off Ball gown, by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord  

 

 The recent acquisition of the Vermont Embroidery House, was used to its full potential, when it came to lavish embellishment, especially with one, beaded, multicolored apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.It was pointed out by the venduse, that Mr. Simons has a love for contemporary art, which easily explains my instant attraction to this piece, that was beaded by the Vermont Atelier, with a hand that gives the effect of the artist’s strokes and textures. Other pieces in the collection where printed in shadow prints inspired by painter Sterling Ruby.

 

The beaded apron bustier, inspired by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.

 

There were two exceptional ball gowns, in the front of the salon, both densely adorned, one in feathers to create pale pink and blue stripes, the other in airy, strips of chiffon, that had been painstakingly cut and sewn by hand. Both gowns, weightless to the touch, an indication of a light hand in the capable ateliers of Dior. The gowns had direct Dior influences, without losing the integrity of modern aesthetics. A Black tulle strapless gown was made in silk marquessate net, embroidered with velvet degrade dots, and re-embroidered in black sequins was a marvelous reinterpretation of the 1957 "Esther" Dior dress. The clothes are light, even the ball gowns, which would appeal to a client who travels often. Some pieces, could be considered very easy to travel with, such as the triple layered geometric lace pieces, which were constructed with a tulle foundation, and two different geometric cotton-silk laces that have been layered, giving the dresses, a jacket and a skirt a three dimensional appearance. 

 

A silk tulle ball gown inspried by Dior's "Esther" gown.
Photo by Wilson McCord, 2012.



Deatils of the "New Esther" gown, by Raf Simons for Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord.

This experience proved to me the success behind this collection and a new era for the House of Dior. With more and more haute couture clients, most whom are very discreet, there is a greater demand for clothes that withstand seasonal trends, and Mr. Simons definitely knows how to provide. Although the DNA was Dior’s, this collection was defiantly Simons vision at its best!

 

Triple layered "3D" net, couture dresses by Dior.
Photo by Wilson McCord.

 

Things to Come

Dior's Holiday Window for Printemps, Paris. Photograph by Wilson McCord, 2012.

A Special Paris Holiday Report on the Artisans and Ateliers of Haute Couture from

Master the Art of Style.

 

 

 

All photos are property of Wilson McCord, 2012. Master the Art of Style has the exclusive rights to use these photos. These photos are not intended to be shared or taken with out consent from the photographer, Wilson McCord.

Style Diary: Stephanie Kaufman, Young Couture Muse

Street Style: Stephanie Kaufman captured during Paris Couture Week
in Miu Miu suit for the New York Times (photo NY Times)

 

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 

Now in her mid-twenties, Stephanie Kaufman represents the new generation of young, modern haute couture clients. As one of the youngs clients from the U.S., Stephanie Kaufman supports the fresh, new names of nouveau couture, favoring the visions of Alexis Mabille and Alexandre Vauthier. Stepahnie recently launched, The Collecte, along with business partner, Maria DeLisi-Minichiello. The site is a platform for new designers from all over the globe. Her passion for fashion has led to the building of an impressive wardrobe (which includes rare, vintage couture pieces from Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent), and the acolate of having great style, at such a young age.

The Young Client Front Row (Far Right) Stephanie Kaufman at
Stephane Rolland Couture Fall 2012 (Photo LA Society News)

MTAOS: How would you describe your personal style, and has your style evolved?

SK: Feminine, ladylike, clean lines with a bit of edge. My style is constantly evolving but I’m slowly learning what works for me. When you’re young I think it’s important to experiment with your style, it’s the only way it will evolve and become something that truly represents you.

MTAOS: Who inspires your personal style?

SK: There’s no one person in particular. It could be a vintage photo of a nameless face or a stylish girl in a blog. I love reading street style blogs. If I’m in a rut it will refresh my mind and inspire me to experiment in new ways.

MTAOS:  What was the very first thing that interested you about fashion and made you pursue a career in this industry?

SK: When I left Catholic school I finally had the freedom to choose my outfits.  I went crazy! Experimenting with wild colors combinations, piling on every necklace I owned. I cringe at some of the things I used to wear but it was all part of my process of discovering fashion. I became obsessed long before I even knew it was possible to study design. When I learned that there were amazing programs out there I knew I found what I should be doing.

 Kaufman front row at Julien Fournie Couture

MTAOS: How did you come about in creating The Collecte along with your Co-founder, Maria DeLisi-Minichiello?

SK: We always wanted to work together and create something unique.  We were bouncing back ideas for years and finally came up with a combination of all of our passions. We recognized a lack of opportunity for new designers and wanted to offer a platform for all kinds of designers and artisans.

MTAOS: Do you believe fashion plays an important role in society and culture?

SK: Yes, very much. Fashion can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and that in turn changes the way you act and how people treat you.

The Red Stunner: Kaufman's first couture purchase
from Alexandre Vauthier  Fall 2011

MTAOS: What was your first haute couture purchase and has haute couture change the way you buy clothes?

My first haute couture purchase was a red knit dress from Alexandre Vauthier’s red collection.  Becoming involved with couture has given me a newfound appreciating for workmanship. It’s really incredible the amount of work and detail that go into these garments. I have to say it has spoiled me.

MTAOS: Is craftsmanship and fit the fore most important thing you look for when you buy clothes?

SK: Fit is so important to me. If it doesn’t fit properly you’ll never feel completely comfortable. The older I get the more I look for and appreciate fine craftsmanship. I’ve started investing in pieces that are classic and well made. I want to build a collection of pieces that I can save and have for years. Although craftsmanship and fit are of utmost importance it won’t completely limit me. If I find a piece that I love then I love! Fashion shouldn’t be taken too seriously.

Fitting Time: Kaufman tries on her share of the Alexandre Vauthier
Spring 2012 couture, at the designers' atelier.

MTAOS: You are becoming a familiar face in the haute couture scene, and also the youngest American couture client; has it become important to you to support the art of couture or is it important for a new generation of clients to become supporters of haute couture?

SK: I consider it is a privilege to be supporting couture in any way. It’s such an incredible art form and often misunderstood or underestimated by the general public. They think how on earth could a dress be worth this amount but they don’t realize the amount of work, time and talent that goes into these pieces. I think it’s very important for the next generation to learn about, appreciate and support couture. Without continued support there’s no way couture will continue.

MTAOS: Any beauty tips for young ladies in their 20’s?

SK: Keep your product use to a minimum. Learn what works and stick to it. Also always be sure to wash your face before bed.

Captured Moment: Stephanie Kaufman, as she leaves the Fall 2011,
Dior Haute Couture show. (Photo New York Times)

 

ModeWalk takes Dallas by Storm

ModeWalk's selection, including haute couture (center and right) by Christophe Josse

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Left to Right: Guest, Jessica Olson in Rochas,
and hostess Ana Pettus in Gustavo Lins

On September 19, ModeWalk presented a trunk show in Big D...that is Dallas, TX.  ModeWalk brought trunks and trunks of Parisienne goods, that would make any coquettish fashionista faint! The trunk show was hosted by Dallas' most Fashionable set, Hiedi Dillion, Ana Pettus, and Anna-Sophia Van Zweden, at the famed Goss-Micheal foundation in uptown Dallas.

ModeWalk's Co-founder, Beatrice Pang, was on hand to meet and greet clients from Dallas, some who are new to the site, and new to the brands. ModeWalk is the go to site for designers such as Andrew Gn, Anne Valerie Hash, Atelier Gusatavo Lins, and Alexis Mabille. Not only are there 40 great must have ready to wear houses, but also a selection of haute couture picks, from personal favorite such as Christophe Josse. The ModeWalk team engaged and informed customers as they feasted on a buffet of Azzaro envelope clutches, Marion Vidal bubble necklaces, On Aura Tout Vu crystal and silver angelic cuffs, and architectural dresses by Martin Grant. I could not resist the haute couture pieces by Christophe Josse, in a soft pink gazar blouse and gold crocodile pencil skirt.  I could not resist to include my favorites that were shown at the Dallas Trunk show; it was so much fun to experience ModeWalk!

 

My Favorite: Pink Gazar Top and Gold Crocodile Skirt by Christophe Josse Haute Couture, Price Upon Request

 

 

 

 

 

Sexiest Little Black Dress: Azzaro Lace Marylou dress, $3,450 at ModeWalk.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Silver Snake Skin Clutch by Azzaro, $1,580 at ModeWalk.com

 

Photos by Ana Pinto of ModeWalk and ModeWalk.com

Alexandre Vauthier Fall 2012 Couture

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

If Giambattista Valli Fall 2012 couture collection was grand, and Givenchy turned out an exotic collection, then Alexandre Vauthier made couture sexy.  Since his launch in 2009, Alexandre Vauthier has given haute couture a modern sex appeal, a aesthetic that is not commonly associated with haute couture. Vauthier is a designer who marches to the beat of his own drum, and has created his own signature image. For the woman who loves gold, liquid jersey covered in crystals, and short minis for mile long legs, then Vauthier is the go to man for the look!

 The collection opened with an easy look of an all white jumpsuit and coyote fur bolero. The whole collection was dominated by a color story of Gold, Taupe, and a bright white. Suits where sharply tailored, nipped, with pleated peplums and paired with mini skirts. Luxurious jump suits where kept simple and softly draped, with a supple easiness, reminiscent of a Yves Saint Laurent safari suit.

Although sexy, a sense of modesty and taste resided in every look, where it was done in full, dense, guipure lace or finished off with long sleeves. Beading was kept minimal and modern, all done by Lesage, until the final look, a jewelry box of crystals embroidered onto a tulle body suit, perfect for the winter ice princess.

Dany Atrache Couture Fall 2012/ 2013

By David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 For the first time, we attended the presentation of Lebanese couturier Dany Atrache, during Paris Couture Fall 2012/2013 collections. Mr. Atrache established his couture business in 2000, after years of training at Dior, Claude Montana, and the now closed establishment of Torrente Couture. Dany Atrache holds an European savoir faire, while maintaining cultural references of his native Lebanon. For Fall 2012, the "exits" where very feminine and very youthful; plenty of cocktail and evening wear in transparent tulle, chiffon, and lace. Splashes of heavy sequin or beading adorned modern-weave lace. Although, Dany Atrache is not a familiar face, or a house hold name on the couture calender, he does have a strong following of middle-eastern starlets, and Saudi princesses, who want couture quality garments with out breaking the bank.

All Photos: Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style, 2012

A Personal Look at the Season: Haute Couture Fall 2012/2013

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

If Haute Couture isn’t personal, what is?  At Master the Art of Style, we are not bound to fashion conglomerates or beholden to big time advertisers.  Therefore, the points made in the following essay reflect the sole opinion of the writer.  As is always the case in Paris, it is during the smaller shows that inspiration and new direction are revealed. This was the case at the first scheduled show, Christophe Josse.  The light, modern direction this veteran designer continues to embrace has track record appeal which can no longer be ignored.  The beautiful tailoring, slices of bare skin in delicate cocktail dresses, discreet and refined embroideries, and wispy gowns, both romantic and modern in cut and fabric. Dior under the new creative direction of Raf Simmons  offered safe choices for its clients, by deconstructing from the Dior archives.  A beautiful dress is better and more wisely bought at one of the lesser known designers.  But if the client wants a well-cut coat, she knows where she can find one---Dior offered beautiful coats and jackets for the customer who wants Dior.  Alexis Mabille showed princess fantasy velvet gowns in midnight and black, very romantic, for a quiet and refined entrance making moment.  The respect and the finesse were both evident and self-evidence. 

Top and Bottom Photos: Alexis Mabille Couture Fall 2012,
photo by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

Chanel offered a pink and gray “vintage” pastiche.  A very direct tribute to Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld played up details, like trompe d’oeil tweed done in embroidery and an amazing puffball coat with white feather kitty whiskers at the collar.  Certainly retro, but very, very collectible. Desirable clothes that create fantasy are what drive the couture client. Mr. Lagerfeld is the smartest man in his business.  The Seventies Golden Girl took to the runway at Alexandre Vauthier’s sexy and vibrant tribute to the age of Studio 54, the last days of looking good as a way to enter a privileged, haughty world.  White jumpsuits and heavy gold chain accessories were the code to “getin”.  The question remains, “Into where”?  But fora blast to the past, this show was good fun and well done.

Top and Bottom Photos: Christophe Josse Couture Fall 2012,
by Stephanie Kaufman for Master the Art of Style

on aura tout vu has been an underground favorite for ten years. The darling of newspapers Le Mondeand Liberation, the sheer audacity, humor, intellectual acuity and amazing,constant replenishment of inspiration (this team was the first to embrace cellphones and cars they had embellished on stage) endear us.  The wacky headgear (“Earth to on aura tout vu”!)   allied them to their loyal followers, who know that beneath the wackiness is a solid sense of craftsmanship and refinement.  The team had previous to creating their own collections worked for among others, Christian Lacroix.  Their accessories can carry an entire simple ensemble, and yes, they can cut a killer gown. Happy 10th anniversary, on aura tout vu!  Frank Sorbier took the c off his first name and gave us a phenomenal light show.  A model stood on stage and light beamed onto her to transfer her simple sleeveless, princess cut gown into a myriad of new looks.  It was rather like being at the couture version of psychedelic light show at the Fillmore Auditorium in San Francisco, circa 1968, as well as contemporary virtual reality.  Then models appeared in the actual ensembles.  It was very funny and we all clapped for Mr. Sorbier’sachievement.

Top Photo: On Aura Tout Vu Couture Fall 2012,
photo by On Aura Tout Vu

The New Perrin Paris

"Riva" Perrin Totes, in leather ($1,450) and Crocodile ($6,285) at Perrin NYC. 

By David Pedroza, Editor at Large

Sunday, July 1, is the first day of Paris Haute Couture collections, so by now you should have last season Gaultier couture, sequined track jacket packed, along with your other ensembles for the next 5 days. But the matter of accessorizing still needs to be solved, so this season turns to the sleek and modern designs of Perrin Paris.



Perrin is a family leather goods business that was founded in 1893 by Victor Rigaudy. The company was revamped by Michel and Sally Perrin in 2008, and recently opened the first Perrin boutique at the Carlyle Hotel in New York City. The ideals of craftsmanship and modern design still carry importance at the House of Perrin, which is reflected on their spring 2013 collection.

The "Attelage" in goatskin ($895) and Crocodile (price upon request) at Perrin NYC

Perrin’s “Riva” bag has become a house staple, taking shape of a sphere created by strips of exotic skins that have been crossed and intricately manipulated to create an oversize tote. Another, personal Favorite is “Cabriolet”,in patent leather, which has the appearance of a very chic-mini-bucket. These are surely a must have for ever season.

"Cabriolet" Mini patent minaudiere ($895) at Perrin NYC.

Perrin Paris 1893 The Carlyle Hotel 987 Madison Avenue at 76th Street New York - New York 10021 USA Tel 212 585 1893
sales@perrinparis.com

 All Photos: Perrin Paris

A New Season: Haute Couture Fall 2012

Christophe Josse Haute Couture Spring 2012
 photo: ModeWalk.com

The questioning on the survival of haute couture has been a topic that is slowly dissipating into history. There has been a rebirth of haute couture, due to the increase in public interest, wide spread media tools such as the internet, and a healthy increase in demand from its loyal customers.  A younger generation of women have turned to the art, thus an increase in new and younger couturiers have emerge, while older houses are working hard to keep their lines youthful and modern to attract younger clients, while maintaining the older clientele.  The internet has played an important role; brining haute couture to the masses, by streaming shows live, live feeds, and up-to-date reports.  E-commerce site, ModeWalk.com, has been the first and only online destination to sell haute couture, and receive endorsement from the French Federation of fashion, Chambre Syndicale de la haute couture. The new generation of couturiers holds the key to this enduring art that has survived many trials of economic turmoil and social changes.  Old  established houses, are returning to their virtues with youth,   classic and season-less clothes, and back to the craft; the essentials of haute couture. Master the Art of Style will cover the Fall 2012/2013 collections July 1- July 5, and will have daily coverage from our corresponding team in Paris.  

Special Thanks to all of the following haute couture houses in advanced for extending their kindness, help, and access to their beautiful world: Atelier Versace, Alexis Mabille, Alexandre Vauthier, Christian Dior, Dany Atrache, Elie Saab, Christophe Josse, Georges Chakra, Givenchy, Stephane Rolland, On Aura Tout Vu, and Valentino. And a special thanks to ModeWalk.com for their support.

Dior Couture by Patrick Demarchelier

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

 Earlier this year, I received a gift from Madame Catherine Riviere, directrice of Dior Haute Couture. It was a surprise and of course a privilege to receive anything for a woman I respect and from a house I admire. There is such a warm feeling from receiving a large box from Dior, a bit like receiving your first haute couture purchase, except this couture item came in the form of a book. I am an avid fashion book collector, so I was so happy to receive this book,  "Dior Couture" by Patrick Demarchelier. A large and beautiful coffee table size book with amazing photographs by Patrick Demarchelier of the houses famed haute couture creations.  Over 100 couture looks are vividly illustrated in the photographs by Demarchelier, which includes designs by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and John Galliano's most recent creations for the house. The book also features, beautiful 1940's looks from the founder himself, Christian Dior. The photos them selves have a more intimate feeling, which are taken in both color and black and white. There are several breath taking images of regal ball gowns that evoke the grandeur of the houses heritage and history. Dior Couture is a must have for any book collector or couture collector; Thank you Madame Catherine Riviere!

Photos by Wilson McCord for Master the Art of Style