Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2015

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Karl Lagerfeld is one of, or maybe, the best showman in fashion. He can definitely create a vision and show season after season, which dazzles an audience. And one knows how hard it is to dazzle a tough crowd, especially after seeing show after show.  For spring 2015, Karl Lagerfeld opened the Chanel haute couture collection with a live-action garden, constructed of paper. A spell binding performance, of vivid paper flowers, that opened and reveal a colorful tropical garden. The clothes that followed where the blossoming floral or art and craft that Karl imagined for Chanel haute couture.

Of course a fun, and magical show to watch, one must understand the mission of each show is to sell clothes to private clients. All things aside, the clothes stood out as wearable, functional pieces, one would expect from the world’s most profitable couture house.  I viewed the collection privately, at Chanel’s New York show room, the way most private clients would and was simply impressed by each piece individually, in all its beauty and details. This season, most suits were cut on the bias, to glide over the body, while the shoulders were kept strong, yet round and soft. Tweeds were made over-textured by weaving in ribbons and sewing them to a tulle base to keep them light as a feather. One suit, look # 16, was deceptively simple tweed, but was in fact a lace base with tweed yarns woven into it, creating one of the softest, and coolest tweeds to wear in the summer. Any client could walk away with a simple shift in this fabric, and it would be the most perfect piece one could own.  

Look #16: Lace suit with Tweed thread embroidered to look like classic Chanel Tweed.

Chiffon pleated Top and Skirt with 3-D flower embroidered bolero

Dresses were airy and light, or fully embellished with 3-D floral motifs. The amount of detail and work that went into creating these pieces was astounding. I mentioned to the Directrice, these embroideries where too precious to be worn, and better off hanging on the wall as art! Even skirts and underlying’s that look like a matte crepe, was actually hundreds-of-thousands of matte micro-sequins, painstakingly applied by hand.  Skirt back vents, where adorned with an invisible layer of silk tulle, or decorated with crystal buttons. All this attention and work would undoubtedly go un-noticed to the untrained eye, but that does not phase the house of Chanel, there focus is the client and her happiness, and that’s what makes haute couture so much more special.

Bias cut suit, creates a seamless effect

Sequined tunic dress, with embroidered tulle gown worn under.

photos by Ruben Fajardo and Style.com