One of a Kind: RARE VIntage

Rare Vintage Founder and Owner, Juliana Cairone

In New York City you can find the latest of anything, from the Chanel's new Lame Lace overalls at Bergdorf Goodman, to Dior's Spring 2012 chiffon frocks, available through a trunk shows at Saks Fifth Avenue. There is a point when you had enough of the latest "it" items or have a desire to be different, so vintage has become a must have in many wardrobes. When it comes to vintage the BEST place to go in New York City is RARE VINTAGE. Rare Vintage like a candy store, once your in, you go gaga over the haute couture gowns, vintage finds from every designer you can imagine, and those anonymous pieces that have a history more alluring than any designer label. The owner her self, Juliana Cairone, is just as fabulous as her showroom, and has a eye for finding rare and beautiful pieces that not only become must haves, but collectible. This stylish fashionista shares with us the history and concept of Rare Vintage......

David Pedroza: What inspired you about vintage couture, and how did it lead to opening Rare Vintage?
Juliana Cairone: RARE vintage came about accidentally because of my husband, my mother-in-law and a head cold.
We have an apartment here in the city and a house on Centre Island and my clothes had been slowly creeping out of the closets for years in both places until it got to the point my husband and my mother-in-law ganged up on me and said I had to do something about it. As I was going through things I realized I had a lot of vintage, looked on line saw and that there was a vintage show in a couple of weeks. The woman running the show was kind enough to let me participate even though I was not a dealer. Shortly afterwards I had a terrible head cold and was in bed for a week. I had enjoyed doing the vintage show and started writing a business plan for the store and I found the space on 57th Street that same week.

DP: What is your first vintage purchase?

JC: When I was a little girl, dressing up in my grandmothers dresses from the 1950s and 1960s was a serious hobby. And then when I was in college I wore a lot of sheer floral print dresses that I use to buy in a barn. They were literally a couple of dollars each! But my first serious vintage purchase was a Valentino haute couture gown from the 1970s that I found in Italy for a couple of hundred dollars. It fit like it was made for me. I wore it to the Met Gala for opening of the show Goddess. There were three women that evening wearing exactly the same current season white Valentino gown and I think that was the moment when I understood I did not want to have a dress anyone else would have and wearing vintage is wearing something special. I later loaned my Valentino dress to Calista Flockhart and she wore it to the Academy Awards.

Calista Flockhart in Juliana's Valentino Haute Couture, Circa 1970's

DP: Who is your favorite designer, and does his or her style influence the vintage you acquire?
JC: I have designers I love: Balenciaga, Madame Gres, Yves Saint Laurent but truthfully I love a little bit of everyone. I love a little Courreges dress from the 1960s, I love Marc Jacobs' grunge collection for Perry Ellis, I love Capucci, I love Chanel from Coco Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, I even love this extraordinary Bob Mackie bolero I bought recently and I certainly did not think that I could love Bob Mackie until I saw that particular piece.


DP: Do you share the same taste in vintage as your clients?
JC: I only buy pieces for the store that I personally love or find interesting. I bought a spectacular Issey Miyake coat that is not at all my personal taste but as an object, I knew that is was an incredible collector's item and it sold immediately. In fact, I had clients and a museum fighting for it.

DP: Who is the Rare Vintage customer, and what does she want out of her vintage clothes?
JC: I don't think we have a typical RARE vintage client. We have very young girls who are building a collection (everyone has become much more aware of the value and uniqueness of vintage), we have clients who are very social and are out in the evening often and they don't want to be wearing the same dress as someone else, we have people who are just collectors and people who collect and wear.


DP: The workmanship in vintage and contemporary haute couture is so spectacular; has it changed the way you see quality in ready-to-wear or fashion in general in today’s market?
JC: I love the word 'petersham'. Petersham is the little interior grosgrain ribbon belt that is inside many vintage couture pieces. It holds the dress to the body and makes an enormous difference in fit. Valentino Couture dresses have a petersham and a little ribbon that is almost like a bodysuit so you have to step into the dress. Brilliant, a little complicated to get into but when you sit down and your dress does not bunch around the shoulders you understand completely. When I go into Bergdorfs and look at dresses which cost thousands of dollars, none of them have a petersham.

DP: How did you come about the Valentino Haute Couture Sale?
JC: It is funny but I have found that one month we may get calls with almost exclusively Saint Laurent or Chanel to sell. So it happened that when I was in Italy (I do quite a bit of buying for the store in France and Italy), I happened to come across Valentino Couture pieces. They were not from one person and the years ranged from very rare and early 1960s pieces to the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. We thought it would be great to have a capsule sale of the collection on 1stdibs.

Selection of vintage Valentino Haute Couture From Rare Vintage: (Left) Pink Gazar gown, Circa 1962, price upon request, (Center Left) Beaded Leopard organza dress, price upon request, (Center Right) Black Velvet and Gazar Dress, $2,400, (Right) Silk organza and Lace pin tuck gown, circa 1978, $3,000. Available at www.1stdibs.com

DP: Do you think vintage clothes, or vintage couture in particular, has become very important in today’s world?
JC: I think vintage has become very important in todays world. For one thing, designers source from us for inspiration for future collections and because shopping has become depressingly global - you can find a Prada store anywhere, all carrying the same merchandise - so what is the point of going to Milan and buying Prada when you can buy the same thing here in New York. And with the internet everything is so saturated. We have all seen the new Valentino collection on the internet and then we will see it on actresses who will borrow it and then finally it will be in the stores and by then you are already a little tired of it. But with vintage, even though it is something old, it is actually in a way something new and something which has not been seen.

DP: What are your 3 favorite pieces currently at your showroom?
JC: One of my favorite new pieces is a slinky rust colored jersey Yves Saint Laurent rive gauche evening dress with a plunging back and gold leather straps. It is so Saint Laurent and to me when I see it, I can also see Saint Laurent with LouLou de la Falaise, Betty Catroux, Marina Schiano all hanging out together laughing in a restaurant in Paris. It takes me to a different place and I love that transformative, dreamy quality in vintage. My other favorite pieces are not in the store yet but will be soon: it is a collection of Chanel couture runway jewelry. I have never seen anything like it for sale and the pieces are just incredible. It is all from the late late 80 and very early 90s.

DP: What are Rare Vintage’s 3 must haves for fall 2011?
JC: I f I were to choose three pieces that are must haves for the fall from RARE vintage I would choose a whimsical animal print sweater from Krizia (Givenchy and Balenciaga were definitely inspired by Krizia's original animal print sweaters), An incredibly beautiful couture heavy silk and velvet gown from Givenchy Couture that I am madly in love with. And a fun cropped vintage fur.

Animated Sweater, T Rex by Krizia, $650 at Rare Vintage NYC

Velvet Sheath with Leather and gold sequin appliques, Givenchy Haute Couture, price upon request at Rare Vintage NYC

Fox Fur stole, 1950's Jean Patou Haute Couture, price upon request at Rare Vintage NYC

All Items are available at Rare Vintage NYC, 24 West 57 street, Suite 501. Visit the site at www.rarevintage.com

Journey as a Dior Couture Client

Dior Haute Couture Garment label

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

When I first began Master the Art of Style, my initial intent was to write about my passion for Haute Couture, and to share with readers every aspect, from workmanship to design. I have spent many years studying the craft, its creators, and the process of creating something so beautiful and special. For years, the public has questioned the relevance and existence of Haute Couture, and although a revival or rebirth of this craft has come, many still believe Couture is on its last leg. But, as a true believer, that couture is still relevant and influential; I have decided to share my first experience as a “couture client” and to share with my readers an experience that is truly one of a kind.

As Editor in Chief of Master the Art of Style, I cannot proclaim I am an “Haute Couture Client”, but was given the privilege to forgo a process that only a privilege few experience. The team at Master the Art of Style has attended many couture shows in Paris, and through the reference of a friend of mine, who is a new comer to the couture circle, I was able to make an appointment at Dior haute Couture. I had miss the show in July, the first presentation by the House without Galliano. This collection, shown July 4, 2011, was designed with the creative direction of Bill Gaytten, who for the past twenty years worked closely with Galliano as collaborator and designer. The inspiration for Gayteen’s first collection was Frank Gehry and the Memphis movement of the 1980’s; a mixture of architectural form, eighties pop colors and electrifying prints, came down the runway to the beats of Grace Jones. For the press and the public, it was a dazzling, crazy, “disco” collection, but for the customer it was much more. Past the colors, sequins, and lame, where silhouettes that are well suited for the real world, and kept in line with the heritage of Christian Dior.

Runway Look, Model 1

The adaptation of the Runway look above

I was told by my appointed Dior venduse that I can see the “translations” or adaptations of this collection. I made an appointment for September, when the collection would travel to New York City, not uncommon these days, since many house send their collections to different cities around the world for clients that did not or could not attend the couture show. The collection was being presented at a prestigious, luxury hotel in New York (I can not disclose its location, in respect of the privacy of Dior’s couture clients), where clients can select designs or befitted for garments they ordered in July (my appointment was held up by a very discreet social doyenne who has been a long time Dior client). The venduse I spoke to was not on-hand to help me that day, but I had the privilege to have the help of Madame Catherine Riviere. Madame Riviere is the famed Directrice (manager) of the Dior Haute Couture Salon, she is the link between the client and the atelier, as well as the “eyes and mouth” of the designer. I was welcomed by Madame Riviere into the hotel room, a lovely hotel suite, packed with racks of Gaytten’s Fall couture collection for Dior. She guided me directly to the adaptations, which are the interpretations of the runway looks, which are more practical and wearable. Of course, I went for the tailored pieces, a Black Bar suit with Pleated organza details, a black and navy taffeta and organza topper coat, along with a black and plum jacket, paired with an organza ruffled skirt. Every piece is beautiful constructed to the standard of Haute Couture, and I was reinsured by Madame Riviere that it was true Haute Couture. The Directrice makes sure that each style I picked kept the integrity of the original design (she kept on referring to the original runway model) but with the adaptations I required for my personal life, or a clients personal request. We went through the virtues of each garment, its fit and a run through of the process I would for take if I ordered a piece. The House of Dior was kind enough to send me a hand sketch of my adaptations along with a price list of each design; Houses are very quiet about prices, and prices reflect the changes made to each design. Although haute couture prices have been ridiculed for being very high, I believe they are justified and fair. Once you experience haute couture, you can never go back to the same way of shopping and dressing. It is a whole other mind set and life style, with the reasoning that you are buying something that will fit perfectly, be made beautifully, and will last your life time, even longer. Haute Couture is a wonderful, rarified world full of beauty, and where dreams come true.

Ioma Skin Care Exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue

Ioma Skin Care is now available in the USA exclusively at Saks! Invented in France 10 years ago by dermatologists, this line started as prescription only, then in the past 3 years became available over-the-counter. It is now wildly popular in France and soon here.

The line has 7 different product families to suit your specific needs. Ioma does not believe in a “skin type,” but instead analyses your unique skin needs with its photo device. Just stick your head in this device and it takes 5 pictures showing your skin in natural light, parallel polarized light to show lines/wrinkles, cross polarized light to show redness, UV light to show sun damage, and blue light to show bacteria/clogged pores. Once your skin is analyzed, you will be given custom product recommendations. Use the products, and you can come back for another skin analysis to see how they are working, and perhaps to get different recommendations once your skin has changed. The line ranges from $60-$205! Contact me for your skin analysis at t: (001) 212-940-2149 or email:

marisol_rivera@S5A.com

ML by Monique Lhuiller at Saks

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Thursday Oct 13, 2011, Saks Fifth Avenue Flag Ship store in NYC, will celebrate the launch of Monique Lhuillier's diffusion line called, ML, a moderately priced line of cocktail dresses and evening gowns that reflect the designers high end vision. Monique Lhuillier will be on hand to meet clients and offer style advice. To attend the cocktail, please contact Personal Shopper Marisol at Rivera marisol_rivera@S5A.com, or visit her website, http://www.marisolrivera.com/fashion/monique-lhuillier-ml-dress-collection-launch

Also visit http://www.moniquelhuillier.com/ to veiw the collection

Paris Collection Spring 2012- Chanel

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Chanel - I always find that Karl Lagerfeld has a tricky way of repeatedly producing the same thing, yet simultaneously reinventing it over and over; this season's collection boasts no exception. After performing during the show, singer and new muse Florence Welch accompanied the designer on the runway, where we saw Karl in a slightly modernized version of his ultra-classic uniform. Off to a pretty but weak start, the spring/summer collection is a mix up of hounds tooth jackets over prints, printed dresses with black insets, iridescent jacket and skirt combos, and even a track jacket. Overall, the common thread in all but 2 or 3 pairs of leather short-shorts, was tame and classic, modest pieces. The collection was one of hits and misses, with most of the hits being the more simple looks. The gorgeous, sophisticated sexy swimwear and use of the finest, lightest ethereal fabrics kept the Chanel woman very classy this season. Perhaps the most groundbreaking of all however was the proliferation of flats and low-heeled (square-toed) boots on this season's runway -- ensuring that regardless of what we wear this spring, we will definitely be walking in Chanel!

Photos by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Collections Sprint 2012- Dior

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Christian Dior - This season, the Dior woman is taking a vacation from all the drama and slipping away to some sophisticated but secluded summer retreat. With her bright lipstick and raffia backpack she is going back to basics, think wide collar jackets with knee-length skirts, with an elevated outlook. For the spring/summer 2012 collections, Bill Gayten and his team were arguably the designers under the most pressure in the industry. Their response to the situation: a safe collection of pretty little separates and dresses which are almost guaranteed to be a commercial success. After the last few seasons' worth of drama at the house, this might not have been a bad call. Gayten stuck to the classic, breezy Dior fabrics such as organza, in very classic shapes that will flatter women of all sizes. Here he successfully upholds the true spirit of Dior, celebrating the woman as a lady. Although Gayten is surely not going to be revealing any Galliano-esque (sartorial!) moves anytime soon, his use of a wonderfully bright orange in the collection did add something a bit more modern. Pretty bags and shoes subtly accent the season's collection, once again promising to be big sellers.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Collections Spring 2012- Chloe and Barbra Bui

by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent

Chloe - Congratulations to Claire Waight Keller on a beautiful debut! She captured wonderfully the essence of Chloe, and might be about recapture Phoebe Philo's glory days at the house. Universally flattering horizontal lines and a mod-Safari belt slung loosely across the hips gave Claire's own touch to the flowing trousers and tops for which the house is known. Touches of color, including the oh-so-chic turquoise, were added to the muted palette of white and rosy nudes which will be dressing women all summer long. Breezy summer comfort with a decidedly modern edge reigned supreme at Chloe, and you can expect it to be a the go-to collection for working girls everywhere this summer.

Barbara Bui - For the spring/summer 2012 collection, Barbara Bui kept everything sporty. Washed silk and colour-blocking looked enticingly ready to wear for young Parisians, with white and turquoise poised to place them at the top of the trendy heap. The collection was in danger of looking more like Paris's version of high street than designer, until it took a decidedly tribal turn. Feathers, leather, and intricate embroidery proved once again just how talented this designer is. Bui's signature sexy and forward-looking style was allover this collection, with standout pieces such as track pants with a turquoise racing stripe and an incredibly embroidered tribal jacket. Matching shoes for almost every look are sure to turn up in editorials this season.

Gucci 90th anniversary : Jackie Forever at Saks Fifth Avenue

During the Onassis years, Jackie O' was the perfect image of the jet set style, that was coveted by every "it" girl. Jackie's leisure style came along with the help of a leather trim, stream line, hobo bag, designed and made by Gucci. The bag was dubbed the Jackie bag, because the bag represented the epitome of Jackie Onassis personal style and position as a style Icon. In celebration of 90 years in business, Gucci and Saks Fifth Avenue in NYC will present bags worn by Jackie Onassis, and will give shoppers the history behind a Icon and her bag.

Join Gucci boutique,first level of Saks Fifth Avenue, NYC, October 5Th and 6Th, 2011.
You may also contact Saks Personal Shopper Marisol Rivera, Marisol_Rivera@s5a.com, or visit her site, http://www.marisolrivera.com/