by April Wirth, Paris Correspondent
Chloe - Congratulations to Claire Waight Keller on a beautiful debut! She captured wonderfully the essence of Chloe, and might be about recapture Phoebe Philo's glory days at the house. Universally flattering horizontal lines and a mod-Safari belt slung loosely across the hips gave Claire's own touch to the flowing trousers and tops for which the house is known. Touches of color, including the oh-so-chic turquoise, were added to the muted palette of white and rosy nudes which will be dressing women all summer long. Breezy summer comfort with a decidedly modern edge reigned supreme at Chloe, and you can expect it to be a the go-to collection for working girls everywhere this summer.
Barbara Bui - For the spring/summer 2012 collection, Barbara Bui kept everything sporty. Washed silk and colour-blocking looked enticingly ready to wear for young Parisians, with white and turquoise poised to place them at the top of the trendy heap. The collection was in danger of looking more like Paris's version of high street than designer, until it took a decidedly tribal turn. Feathers, leather, and intricate embroidery proved once again just how talented this designer is. Bui's signature sexy and forward-looking style was allover this collection, with standout pieces such as track pants with a turquoise racing stripe and an incredibly embroidered tribal jacket. Matching shoes for almost every look are sure to turn up in editorials this season.