Rodarte Spring/Summer 2012

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
The A-Listers, Beyonce, Kate Winslett, Taylor Swift,accompanied by Anna Wintour and of course the Fanning girls (who follow where Rodarte goes), along with the rest of the audience, were melting in the heat of the Chelsea gallery as we waited for the most anticipated show of New York Fashion Week. Apparently it was even hotter in the tiny dressing room backstage,where the artists frantically applied then re-applied powder to the models. I am happy to report, as a long-time lover of this label, that Kate and Laura did not disappoint. The breathtaking clothes were about van Gogh. The girls always have their points of reference, but here is where I want to stop the reference. These gorgeous cocktail dresses, gowns and pant and tunic combinations on the runway sparkled and shone, while the waltz from the from Sleeping Beauty became a background tribute to the good fairy who waved her wand for Sleeping Beauty to choose what color of dress to pick before she met the Prince. Sleeping Beauty had only two colors, pink or blue. The sisters, on the other hand had van Gogh’s palette, from sunflowers to Starry Night. Boat neck shoulders only added to the allure. It is thrilling to watch Kate and Laura Mulleavy refine their collections each season. Visions of past season made their way into this show, but the taste was original and new.

Photos: Yannus Valamos

Handmade in Silicon Valley

by Christine Suppes, Editor at Large

Approximately eighteen months ago, pastry chef Jennifer Chao and her engineer sister Angel decided to take an entrepreneurial risk, not exactly uncommon in the Silicon Valley, the Mecca of High Tech. The way they went about their risk is what is uncommon. Inspired by their mother’s love of European sensibility---and especially icons Audrey Hepburn, Jane Austen, “Sisi”, Empress Elizabeth of Austria, and the Duchess of Devonshire, the sisters followed their hearts and began to create ethereal handbags. Utilizing old lace from the Lace Museum in near by Sunnyvale, finds from the Paris flea market, and Asian street vendors, Jennifer and Angel began crafting delicate, one of a kind handbags for the customer who probably also wears Blahnik, Louboutin and Dior. “Our bags are statement pieces. It takes a special person to pull them off.” With up to 24 hour of handwork, these embroidered, encrusted and bejeweled bags are works of art. They will retail for between a thousand to two thousand dollars—a bargain for anything handmade in Silicon Valley. For more information, please email angelchao.info@gmail.com

"Sortir Le Soir" : New Fragrance by Susan Tabak

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Author of Chic in Paris, and style guru, Susan Tabak Launched a new sent, Sortir le Soir,a Fragrance celebrating femininity and sensuality. On Wednesday,August 24, 2011, Susan hosted an intimate cocktail at her Chic Manhattan apartment, inviting bloggers and fans to celebrate the launch of the fragrance, which is a first for Susan. A mixture of gardenia white florals with notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, jasmine, freesia, amber and vanilla, that gives it a light, sweet, beautiful scent. Susan Tabak had the help of the "Nose" Francoise Caron,(who also created such scents as Hermes Eau d'orange) to create this enchanting fragrance. Each note works well together, beautifully, balancing each other, making the fragrance chic and ultra feminine.

"Sortir Le Soir" By Susan Tabak, $125 at http://www.susantabak.com/

Paris Haute Couture Fall 2011: Valentino

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's collection for Valentino Couture, Fall 2011, was inspired by a Russian Princess. A fairytale story, has become reality for many women who dream of being a princesses. Princess or not, these clothes were luxury and beauty, the best that has come from the minds of this dynamic duo. Silhouettes where kept simple and minimal, from long sleeve cylinder gowns, to bias cut halters. The work that went into these pieces were evident in the beading and drape, such as the opening dress, composed of tulle with zigzags of gunmetal and gold beads, 750 hours of hand work. The hand used to create this collection was light and soft; best example being the soft wool crepe jackets paired with floor-length pencil skirts (jackets requiring at least 52 hours of work and skirts, 20 hours). The labor and quality of material that go into each piece is impressive, but it all comes down to the vision, a vision that created a dream come true.

Photo by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Paris Haute Couture Fall 2011: Part One

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

The decadence of Haute Couture is breathe taking. Each bead, feather and stitch placed by hand on an array of sumptuous fabrics that long to be worn. For Fall 2011, the Paris Couture Collections celebrated, not what couture was, but what it is now. For years there has been a debate that this craft was on its last leg, and finally Couture has shown endurance through hard times, with its client list growing with new members from every age, nation, and a stronger desire for made-to-measure clothes, with a quality that can out last a life time.

New invited Giambattista Valli, has been given the privilege by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, to show his first ever haute couture collection. Valli has a strong following since he first launched his Pret-a-Porter Collection in 2005, including heavy weight couture client, Lee Radziwill. The large demand for made to measure frocks from Valli's Atelier has created an obvious path to Haute Couture. For fall 2011, Valli's collection did not disappoint, the collection looked like the work of a seasoned and well established couturier. A simple pallet of ecru, black, coral, red, and a dash of animal graced the surface of tweeds, chiffon, and tulle. Gowns were kept simple, yet grand, a cross of 1950's couture "cabin" model and Grace Kelly. Beading was dense, yet minimal. There was a lightness to the work, and the opening look was in fact a "Cabin" model look, a simple white smock worn with a sweater, a true homage to couture's past.

Azzedine Alaia, although not new, but yet has been able to be absent for the past 8 years from any runway presentation, showed a small yet strong "Semi" or "Demi" Couture collection. It was Alaia being Alaia, taking inspiration from none other than him self and staying true to his vision of what fashion is to him. The silhouettes could been have called his greatest hits, Ballooned, nipped waist, scalloped, and the column, where all embraced in supple suedes, patent Croc, perforated fabrics, lush velvet and Mongolian lamb. The clothes where all contemporary, a new classic, with sublime workmanship. It was a well deserved standing ovation for Azzedine Alaia, a designer who has been able to set him self from the rest and remain true to his own

Photos from style.com

Editor's choice: Bea Valdes Jet Black Cassanova Clutch

by David Pedroza, Editor and Chief

One of my favorite artisan houses at Couture Lab is Bea Valdes, a company based in Manila, Philippines. They support local craftsmanship that focus on traditional embroidery, creating elaborate, precious, pieces that can take up to eight weeks to make. There latest confection is the Cassanova clutch. Hand-beaded in Jet Black beads and Stones, in a half-moon shape; a perfect little bag for those special moments. $2,326 at Couturelab.com

Balenciaga and Spain at de Young Museum

Christine Suppes (in a vintage, 1950's Balenciaga Haute Couture gown) with Hamish Bowles

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Now on view at the de Young Museum of Arts in San Francisco, 'Balenciaga and Spain'. An exhibition celebrating the work of Haute Couture Master Cristobal Balenciaga. The collection was curated by Hamish Bowles, showcasing Spain's impact on Balenciaga's work, and Spanish references that he maintained through out his career. Major patrons of the show are Nieman Marcus and our very own Editor at Large, Christine Suppes, who hosted a gala for the opening. The exhibition shows about 120 pieces of precious haute couture by Balenciaga, from both the museum and private collections, along with a book of the exhibition. Balenciaga and Spain is open till July 4, 2011.

Photos by Drew Altizer, 2011