Let's Celebrate

2010 is coming to a close, and marks the one year Anniversary of Master the Art of Style. As Editor in Chief, I would like to thank my readers, my team: Christine Suppes (Editor at Large) and April Hall (Paris Correspondent) for their great work, Family and Friends for their support.

Happy New Year to every one!!!

xoxo-David

"High Art" photographed by Annie Leibovitz for Vogue, 2004. Gown By John Galliano for Christian Dior Haute Couture. Painting by Chuck Close.

Holiday Must Haves 2010

The Holiday's are around the corner... weather your shopping now or just need some ideas, the editors at Master The Art of Style have put together a list of items we desire this season. These items are our must haves of the moment.....

Christine Suppes, Editor at Large
-Black voile Lesage crystal encrusted Chanel blouse with detachable voile shawl collar.

Chanel Top,Price Upon Request. Chanel , NYC.

-Anything from Aqua di Parma Iris Noblile fragrance line.

Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile Eau De Parfum Limited Edition/3.4 oz.,$165.00 at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC.

-Van Cleef and Arpel Turquoise Alhambra Long necklace and earrings.

18K YG with turquoise clover shapes outlined in gold,"Alhambra" line of Van Cleef & Arpels, Price Upon Request, Van Cleef & Arpels, NYC.

-Bring our young men and women home from the Middle East

David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

-Hermes Très Kelly Twilly

Twilly, $130.00 at Hermes, NYC

-A book filled with beautiful images of haute couture by designer Franck Sorbier

Franck Sorbier by Viviane Blassel & Franck Sorbier, $125.00 at Rizzoli, NYC.

-Anything vintage by Christian Lacroix Haute Couture

-Peace of mind and happiness to every one.....

Style Diary: The Muse, Christine Suppes

Christine Suppes in Vivienne Westwood Couture, Photographed by Frederic Aranda

Founder of FashionLines.com/ Haute Couture Parton

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief
Christine Suppes is the innovator and pioneer to introduce the first editorial fashion E-magazine on the Internet. In 1999, Christine launched FashionLines.com, a site that reported fashion week coverage from all over the world, interviewed fashion's most interesting designers, and covered life style and cultural stories. The site closed in 2007, but made way for new fashion Internet editorials and inspired fashion bloggers abroad. Christine Suppes is not only a respected journalist (she is also our fellow Editor at large), but a great patron of the arts as well (she was the major patron of the Yves Saint Laurent retrosoective at the de Young Fine Arts Museum of San Fransisco in 2008, and will also be patron for the Balenciaga exhibition at the de Young in March 2011). Christine is also a celebrated Haute Couture collector and has been noted to support new talent, such as Rodarte when they first appeared on the fashion radar. This beautiful, inspiring and intriguing woman shares with us her unique personal style and why she loves haute couture....

DP: Has it been an easy or difficult to become one of society’s arbiters of fashion?
CS: Being a style arbiter was nothing I ever thought about. I realized early on when purchasing the clothes I loved that I would rather know more about each garment, and be able to write about it, than just to be known as a fashion consumer.

DP: Does your mood reflect what you wear?
CS: My mood is affected by what I wear. Rodarte brings out the California girl in me, Chanel brings serenity (correctness has its place!), Westwood brings joy, Lacroix Haute Couture brings majesty. And on and on….

DP: Who are your favorite designer(s)?
CS: Karl Lagerfeld of course, On Aura Tout Vu who are my dearest friends, Kate and Laura Mulleavy who I adore, and of course, Vivienne Westwood, that wonderful madcap genius.

DP: How did you gain this passion for collecting haute couture?
CS: By going to so many shows. I broke down one afternoon at a Lacroix show and started to cry because I wanted to look like the angel on the runway. I had already been buying dozens of on aura tout vu gowns and accessories, but they were still “invited members”, not flat out Haute Couture.

DP: What was your first HC purchase and did this purchase change the way you view clothes? The quality, shelf life, purpose of clothes….
CS: Again, it was the angelic Lacroix apricot organza coat with beige embroidered pearl lace and a matching dress. I have always taken care of my clothes, even when I wore GAP jeans. This time, with couture, I turned the lights off and covered the garments with “shrouds”. The purpose of clothes, after a certain level, means the wearer is taking responsibility for the look of a generation.

Striking a pose in Vivienne Westwood, photograph by Frederic Aranda

DP: Do you think your clothes well demonstrate your personality or who you are?
CS: They demonstrate something, but perhaps it’s too bold for me to say they demonstrate me.

DP: Are your accessories an extension of your ensembles, or do they stand out as their own objects?
CS: In the case of Chanel or Westwood, they belong as an ensemble. In the case of on aura tout vu, the accessories may stand alone because they are absolute works of cutting edge art.

DP: What are your favorite pieces in your closet?
CS: The latest thing I own…The pieces I love most are what I have recently acquired. There are exceptions, my Westwood corsets, my on aura tout vu accessories and their famous Map Coat from their second collection, and Lacroix’s goat hair and silver bell ethnic coat from his 2006 autumn collection.

DP: Do you believe being Editor in Chief of Fashionlines.com help your own personal style evolve by being exposed to more designers and their visions?
CS: Of course! Without question. At one point I was covering between 8-10 shows or related functions per day in Paris on my own. Experience like that matches no other.

DP: What would be your immediate reaction if you were sitting next to a woman wearing the exact dress as the one you where wearing?
CS: If I were wearing Haute Couture, I would find the directrice of the house and make a complaint. But prêt-a-porter is just that-----ready to wear. One can’t complain too much about what is more readily available. However, having said that, the prices of Chanel demi-couture are so high now that the saleswoman should bear in mind not to sell the same garment to frenemies or even friends in the same social group!

Extravagant in Vivienne Westwood Couture, which was custom made for Christine. Photograph by Frederic Aranda

The New Modernist: Chadwick Bell

Source of Insperation for the Chadwick Bell Spring 2011 Collection. Photograph by Gigi Stoll

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief

During the Golden Age of Haute Couture, Madame Gres created a sensation with bias cut gowns and liquid, jersey dresses which resembled the ruined columns of Greece. The mastery of drape and manipulation of the bias grain, established her as a grand couturier and master dress maker. For spring 2011, Chadwick Bell, presented a collection that took on the key elements of Madame Gres; soft draped fabrics, beautifully cut bias, and an airiness in his clothes in which great dressmakers learn through an apprenticeship at an haute couture house.

I had the pleasure of being a guest at the Chadwick Bell Studio during the spring 2011 collections, in September. Bell’s collection titled, Camouflage, took on inspiration from a photographer who took photos of her journey in a desert. These photographs by Gigi Stoll, exposed the beautiful textures, rich colors, and elements of a desert along with the life style of those who inhabited the desert. Bell took these elements and transformed them into loose bias cut dresses, light cotton voile blouses and evening columns beautifully adorned with stacked paillettes made to look like crushed, wet, earth. On the runway, the collection was beautiful and very light, but the work up-close was impressive, the attention to detail did not disappoint. Bell’s tailoring techniques have developed during the years; he has achieved the ability to create soft jackets with impeccable tailoring techniques. Taupe, earthy-red clay hues, and Ash grays dominated the color palette, with a mixture of classic men’s suiting fabrics and an organic print in Navy with Egg shell white. Fabrics ranged from a pinstriped gabardine, silk georgette, flesh colored Lamb, and Mudsilk, a crisp, dense fabric which had a distressed, leather look, but soft and light to create an architectural caftan gown. Bell and Webster took me through the collection, and we discussed the virtues of each garment and their workmanship. Chadwick Bell produces ready-to-wear, which is sold at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, but the workmanship stands out, some pieces have been made with the same integrity as haute couture garments, which has created the brand a strong following, of modern elegant woman, many who are Haute Couture clients (One of his clients was a loyal customer at Christian Lacroix Haute Couture).

Studio Visit Photos: 1) Bias cut gown with layers of Chiffon to create a Moire effect. 2) Organic Print Dress. 3) "Mudsilk" Gown. 4) Mastered tailoring in a light men's suiting fabric. 5) The georgette gown shown at the end, with beading made to look like crushed, wet, earth.

Vanessa Webster, Bell’s managing director and business partner, recognized Bell’s unique eye and talent, and supported him to launch a label under his own name in 2007. Webster, who has a laid back elegance and charm, has expanded the company from a small made to order business to an established brand creating clothes for everyday lifestyle. Bell, created a vision of sophisticated, beautifully made clothes that have an intellectual approach with an artistic influence, which vary from contemporary art to grand masters of Haute Couture. Bell favors the work of legendary designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix and Gianfranco Ferre, whose architectural background is evident in Bell’s clothes. Chadwick bell’s vision continues on to jewelry and shoes; for spring 2011, the collection features beautiful abstract rosaries and gold chains that have a modern and rustic mood, along with hardy, stacked heel, luggage sandals made in collaboration with shoe designer, Nathalie Elharrar.

Chadwick Bell is on his way to becoming a great American Fashion House, with a more sophisticated view on fashion than most young designers, and establishing himself for the long run. Creating clothes that will outlive the seasonal shelf live, and will carry on to a new generation, perhaps he may even become one of our American masters.

Studio Visit Photos: 6) Perfect Bias Cut Day Dress. 7) Bias cut, pinstriped wool dress. 8) The great White Blouse. 9) Supple Lamb used to create a travel-friendly Dress. 10) Silk gold iridescent Matelasse dress with stacked paillettes embroidery.

Runway shots of the Spring 2011 Chadwick Bell Show, courtesy of WWD

Post Script: All clothes and accessories by Chadwick Bell Spring 2011. Chadwick Bell is available at Bergdorf Goodman, New York.

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2011: Elie Saab Pret-a-Porter

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent
Elie Saab - Retro done right! Elie Saab's spring 2011 RTW collection was a wonderful example of how to take a decade, the 70's, and use it as inspiration, instead of simply remaking them. His glamorous presentation included short suits, kaftans, and platforms, gold jewellery and other highly recognizable 70's trends, yet remained appropriately modern. The dusty rose pink, dusty periwinkle, and print fabric containing both which he used seem very of the moment. In addition the big gold cuffs and necklaces were feminine and surprisingly delicate given their size, which glamed everything up but kept the feeling more Monte Carlo than Miami. There is no doubt that everyone from 18 to 80 will be wearing his designs come the warm spring weather!

photos via style.com

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2011: Return of Pierre Cardin

by David Pedroza, Editor-in-Chief
On Wednesday September 29, 2010, Pierre Cardin present an Haute Couture collection during Paris Prêt-a-Porter fashion Week. This is a first in 10 years for the designer known as the “King of Licenses”. He proclaimed to WWD on Wednesday, this collection was to be original and innovative, with the purpose of “showing that the brand still exists as a creative force” (WWD). Although, opinions vary, this collection was Cardin being Cardin, not too far from what he has always shown in Haute Couture for the past 60 years. This collection is not to be confused with Ready-to-Wear or his licenses; it is produced in his Atelier of 80 seamstresses, in Paris and created for a private clientele. Cardin noted, he has 100 or so loyal clients that still order up to 6 dresses. The collection showed a lot of existing designs in primary colors, but Cardin did manage to present some new beautiful cocktail and evening wear in black and pink; very pretty , easy to wear, modern haute couture. Some of his looks were generated for a younger woman, while others focused on his mature loyal customers. Cardin is trying to reach the younger generation, and has already dressed Lady Gaga to attract his new following. He will be in New York Next month, trying to expand, not only his license empire, but his Haute Couture.

Photos courtesy of WWD.com

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 2

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

David Koma
Vauxhall Fashion Scout 2009 Merit winner David Koma presented ballet-inspired dresses, starting with very pale and delicate, almost tutu like, before adding bold stripes. My initial feeling is that these would be fun dresses to wear, and would make an entrance with a lot of impact. I’d like to see what Koma does with trousers and suits, because the ethereal collection is best suited to the evening---not that there is anything wrong with that! Accessories included knuckle dusters and bold cuffs of gold and hematite. Faux python was used as accents in belts and on the stripes of the chiffon or wool dresses. A true talent, it will be interesting to see how David Koma evolves.

Photos by Marcus Tondo, 2010

Holly Fulton
Miss Futon claims Joan Collins as her muse, which is forgivable in England, where the then young and very beautiful Miss Collins got her start. You must forget about Dynasty when viewing this collection. It is a kind of early sixties trip—again to the French Rivera—with swim suit ensembles and dresses with a lot of impact. No subtle looks here. Yellow Paten leather dresses lasered with martini glasses, along with Python, pony skin and raffia So much was going on in each garment that it was often had to focus. Miss Fulton claims the Memphis school as an inspiration. She is a winner of the awards at the British Fashion Awards in 2009, Elle New Designer 2010 and Scottish Young designer of the year in both 2009 and 2010.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

London Fashion Week Spring 2011: Part 1

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

Elliott J. Frieze SS11
Master the Art of Style did an interview with Welsh-born designer Elliott J. Frieze last spring and he told us that his new collection would be the equestrian/equestrienne and the influence of Oxford and Cambridge. True to his word, we saw a lot of men’s suits, often with shorts, with the equestrian theme embroidered on the back of jackets. There was a kind of retro look to the collection. It could have been Oxford or Cambridge, or it could have been the French Riviera. The women’s collection, particularly, took on this location, with little English touches like pale Windsor plaid sheaths and skirt and blouse combinations. The pale blue palette was breathtaking. There was a little bit of Audrey Hepburn here, all very serene and yes, marketable. This is a true London wardrobe. I could easily see the Mitford sisters or a very young Cary Grant in these clothes. Elliott Frieze is on his way up the 21 billion pound British fashion industry ladder.

Photos by Sabina Ventriglia of ESVIE.COM, 2010

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Vivienne Westwood defines British fashion with her Grecian tunics (relatively new for her), her shapely sheaths in elegant patterns or shimmering single colors, the perfectly cut pantsuits and the to die for accessories. Red Label is Miss Westwood’s most accessible line---she also does Gold Label which is shown in Paris and has private couture clients. This collection attracted its share of celebrities, ranging from Anna Wintour to Pamela Anderson, which had the paparazzi going crazy. A well cut suit, my favorite Westwood garment, can be found in Red Label, which also had the models going to the beach to work and perhaps night clubbing. Again, Miss Westwood is unmistakeably a British designer.

Photos by Yannis Vlamos, 2010

Lanvin Sets Up Shop in New York

by David Pedroza, Editor in Chief

Lanvin has finally opened a shop in New York City, on the Upper East Side to be exact! A generous, 6,000 square foot, five-floor shop with 30 foot ceilings filled with beautiful clothes, shoes, bags, nick-nack and things....makes one feel like a child in a candy store. The store is minimal, elegant, yet intimate and features every thing from ready-to-wear to bridal. The natural lighting and its two colors, black and white, set an ideal background for the store, while letting the clothes stand out. The bridal salon has a homey feeling, as if you were in your own private dressing room!

Post Script: Visit Lanvin New York at 815 Madison Avenue, between 68th & 69th St, New York City

Photo, Lanvin 2010

LINstallation in Paris

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent

The summer heat at the gardens in the Palais Royale made LINstallation feel all the more appropriate, as many of the guests had arrived wearing just that -- linen. The name itself is a play on words, explaining what exactly LINstallation is. It is an exhibit that focuses on the qualities of fine linen. An impressive line up of top-name designers such as Stephane Rolland and Lefranc Ferrant created special pieces entirely from linen for the installation, showcasing its versatility as a material. Notable works included a waterproof jumpsuit by Jean-Paul Knott, a gorgeous trench coat with underskirt and a cinched waist, and a giant stuffed-animal-garden-ornament-cross face by the always humorous On Aura Tout Vu. All of these were situated in the miniature linen field that had been created for the event, with the pieces being displayed on posts resembling scarecrows.

Jean-Paul Knott Trench Dress
Post Script: it was impossible not to notice that red was the popular colour of choice for women's shoes for the evening.

All Photos by April Hall, 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: On Aura Tout Vu

by Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

On Aura Tout Vu's show, which was held under a canopy of trees in the Palais Royal, was called "Fishing for Compliments", and all manner of otherworldly underwater creatures floated down the runway. The black and white "fish scale" sheath was a standout as was the amethyst suit with long, fin-like sleeves and the adorable pancake tutu cocktail ensemble. Not surprisingly, Lady GaGa's stylist has discovered on aura tout vu and she has appeared in their creations. on aura tout vu may not be French (they are in fact Bulgarian) but they should be designated national treasures for the many French collections they saved at the 24th hour with their finesse and know how, before they wisely decided to concentrate on their own work. This was their strongest collection in several seasons.

Photos, On Aura Tout Vu Fall 2010

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Chanel

By Christine Suppes, Editor-at-Large

The giant gold lion in the middle of of the Grand Palais was jaw dropping. Allegedly, Coco Chanel, a Leo, used this astrological theme in her collections nearly as much as she used the camellia, pearls and four leaf clovers. Unfortunately, we did not hear the lion's roar in this collection. Lesage should never be taken for granted, but this gorgeous work even appeared on street length dresses and matching boots. Who really wants to look like that these days? And even if one had all the money in the world, who can really afford to appear in this over-the-top way? The slim street length silhouette with a self bolero was striking and very modern. Three quarter sleeves appeared on several dresses and even fur coats. On the other hand, very few long gowns were shown. When the groom in a lion's head came out with the bride (in a short dress), many of us were hoping it was Lagerfeld. Alas, it was not. It was model Baptiste Giabiconi, the super handsome male muse of Mr. Lagerfeld. In the audience, Karl faithful Daphne Guinness showed us she was still trying, with a quasi Lady GaGa pompadour, yards of silver sequins and shoes that looked unwearable. The ultimate roar was perhaps Mr. Lagerfeld doing away with long gowns, at least for now. With the way things are going in the world, this might be a good sign in case we need to run for our lives!

Photos by Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com

Haute Couture Fall 2010 Coverage: Basil Soda

by April Hall, Paris Correspondent
Sleek, black gravel covering the runway, French celebrities, and other notable global personalities, some with PA`s fanning them the whole time, set the perfect ambiance for the glamorous runway to red carpet to society gala collection that was Basil Soda`s for fall/winter 2010/2011. Perhaps aimed at the slightly younger crowd, the jewel blues and fuschias as well as whites and neutrals were all accented with gold, usually in the form of zippers. The entire presentation was a magpie's dream, with shimmer and shine and all out glamour in every ensemble. Soda's talent for draping and accentuating the woman's body was used this season to create an awesome feminine rocker chic. Lace, reptile skins, and superfluous zippers gave the beautiful silhouettes a decidedly more aggressive, rocker styling. On the few ensembles lacking these elements however, the result is a beautiful, figure-enhancing gown. The ultimate rocker evening booties worn by the models are a must have as well.

Photos, Basil Soda Fall 2010